And it's rusted like a ************. I broke one of my rachets on it, so I used that as an excuse to go buy an all new Craftsman tool set at Sears. Now, the rachet doesn't break, instead, it's ripping the brackets right off the exhaust. I already tried spraying WD-40 into the bolts... Nothin'.

I don't have a torch. It's not a matter of needing a breaker bar. I'm either going to just cut the old exhaust off with a hacksaw, or ???

Any ideas?

 

I've found that the best way to handle the rust is to soak it in WD-40 or some other rust penetrant. The stuff that unfixes Thread locker works well, i've found. In two situations I've done two things-- Working on a 300Z, a friend and I just torched it off and welded on new spec hanger brackets.


... That being said, it's usually easier to put a vice on the part that's being bent/crushed and attach it to stomething sturdy so that you can loosen/strip the bolts at will.

-Jason

 

If you have an Autozone around, they rent pipe cutters. $45.95 and you get it all back when you return it.

 

Letting it sit (and reapplying in the meantime) before wrenching is key and can absolutely make or break (no pun intended) the results.

Although I have to say it's friggin annoying to have to wait it out when you want to get some friggin' work done

 

Are you talking about the exhaust studs in the engine, or the actual piping? If you are talking about the piping under the car, just cut that crap off. If it is old and rusty then it isn't worth keeping anyway. Save yourself the bloody knuckles and hack that stuff off....

 

i have the same problem trying to remove my stock SE muffler from the rest of the exhaust. ive spent lots of time and spilled lots of blood from my knuckles an di cant get the damn things to budge or break!

 

Busted knucles = battle scars!

 

The only thing I'm worried about is needing the old hangers for my new exhaust.

I reapplied the WD-40, and have been working on installing my interior instead.

 

Maybe try an impact wrench. This has helped me in other similar situations.

 

Another thing is that you might want to wrench it just a bit in both directions while it sits - and even a bit now and then while you're pulling it apart. It helps works the stuff in even more once the bolt/nut starts moving.

 

if the wd-40 doesnt the second time, go out and get som PB blaster, its the best **** ive ever used and you dont have to spray it on and wait for it to start working.

 

get a really long socket driver. My grandfather's got one like 20" long dubbed "the convincer" A couple quick hits with that and the bolts/ nuts are broke loose.

 

PB Blaster is my first choice. Aerokroil works great too, if you can find it. After spraying, it may help to try tighten them just a notch; then back it off. I found that to work for me. Now, I swap my exhaust system completely out for a "stock" emissions system. I put anti-seize agent on most threads on all my exhaust fasteners, wheel studs and spark plugs.

 

Throw that WD-40 out and get some P B Blaster, you will be amazed at the difference between the 2 products.

Spray and soak, come back a couple of hours later and do it again. Work the nuts and bolts in BOTH directions, when they start to break loose, you are usually good to continue removal.

A propane cylinder, from a camp stove, with a $10 torch head ($15 total investment), will give you enough heat, if the penetrant doesn't do it.

 

I just had the exact same problem. I was tryin to put on a full Racing Beat system, and I couldnt wait to put all that shiny new metal on the car. After my first try I went to a guy who had some more tools and know-how than I, and we got it all off and the only thing destroyed were a few bolts. We used some stuff called Liquid Wrench (magical ****), a big breaker bar (and a big hammer to help with that), a vice grip, and a rotary sander/grinder for the hopeless cases. Oh, and a set of Navy-built muscles (him, not me).

Good luck,
Joe

 

My old exhaust system was all rusted to hell so my dad just torched it. Much easier than fighting it. I relaize that not everyone has a torch, but when you're working on an old rusty car it sure is worth the investment.

 

I bought the P B Blaster, it's on there right now. We'll see how it goes.

 

All I have to say is PB Blaster and/or a Sawsall.

 

propane torch - cheap, worthy good investment

 

The only problem I have with a nice, cheap propane torch is, I just bought the car, and don't particularly trust it yet. Last thing I want to do is blow myself up by igniting leaky gasoline fumes.

The P B stuff hasn't worked, yet... I resprayed it, and will let it sit until tomorrow evening. Here's hoping.

 

go to autozone and buy this stuff called BP. its an acid that removes rust ASAP. it says as seen on tv on it, but trust me it works charms.

 

damn didnt see the other posts. lol. sorry. it usually works the best i think. just layer that **** on there.

 

Acetylene torch - till its cherry red or till you get rust in your eye - then pull out the sawzall

 

I vote for Saws All. That's how I'm going to remove mine. Just cut it off and hang the new stuff. Just don't cut the intermediate pipe if you're going to re-use it.

Rich

 

get a cutting arbor + adaptor for a power drill. chop it to hell, its really not worth trying to keep your 20 year old hangers when buying new ones is only a few bucks.

g'luck