1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

I'm rebuilding my '79 Limited. Advice? Please.

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Old 06-27-08, 01:29 AM
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Question I'm rebuilding my '79 Limited. Advice? Please.

I've had my '79 for 5 years now, and I think it deserves a rebuild. I'm going to work on the engine while it's getting a new paint job (back to it's original midnight black). To begin with, I took just about everything off of the engine, then I pulled the engine out. I'm thinking about buying this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mazda...spagenameZWDVW

However, I don't know if this is exactly what I need. Or maybe someone knows somewhere I can get it for cheaper or something better altogether.

I've also got the Haynes manual. It would be a lie to say that I've done much engine work. I haven't, but I'm pretty good with machines and what not. And my brother-in-law is practically a mechanic and is living with my wife and I right now, so he's going to be a huge help. Anywho, does anyone have any tips or advice? Anything they learned rebuilding theirs that the manual may not have covered? Please let me know.

Here's some pics of what I've got thus far:

Taken shortly after the pull. Yes, that's two very strong zip ties holding up the tranny.


Everything I pulled off the engine before pulling it, except for the radiator. My dad and I rebuilt the carb last year.


I haven't done much yet. Didn't have a whole lot of energy left the night I pulled it, so I just started to get the caked off grease and oil off.

Last edited by Zero5360; 06-27-08 at 01:36 AM.
Old 06-27-08, 09:39 AM
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Biggest single piece of advice I can offer, before you start: before opening the engine, have a VERY clear plan for tracking original location for all the rotor seal pieces, and getting them back in their original positions on the rotors! (including the ones that will stick to the rear housing when you lift it off...)

Side seals in particular must go back in the slots they came from; They are custom-cut to fit when installed. If you're lucky enough that they don't need replacement due to wear, they have to go back in the same slots they came out of, in order to get the end clearances right. Corner and apex seals should also go where htey came from, but they aren't normally "fitted".

You need a compartmented box, and a labelling system, planned out before you start, or you will lose/misplace/confuse the several identical-looking seals and springs.

Second-biggest advice is that when you are setting up eccentric-shaft end play, realize that it's FREE end play you are measuring; not the play you can get by prying between the flywheel and the housing. The measured end-play should slide back and forth freely, the specified distance. (some of the pics in the re-build manuals can mis-lead you on this)

Go slow, make sure you understand each step before doing it, and get everything REALLY clean before assembling. Measurements & clearances are more important on rotaries than on piston engines - - they don't absorb 'slop' as well.

A digital camera is your best friend; play CSI and shoot EVERYthing as it comes apart; you'll love yourself for it later, at assembly time.

Good luck... it'll be an education. They're amazing machines.
Old 06-28-08, 08:50 AM
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Good Luck and great to bring another Limted back

I had my Limited painted back to stock with a Mazda origonal paint strip code to compare the fisnished product to. The origonal paint code is E6 and is called Beat Black. It is actually more of a dark metallic grey/charcoal in the direct sun. In the shade, cloudy day/ dusk it appears more black. I was surprised how dark grey it appears but I love the colour . I have a thread on it here if you search you can see the colour comparison to Black which the previous owner painted it
Old 06-30-08, 02:18 AM
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Glad to hear your going to restore one of mazda's rare SA Limiteds! Great. Am in the same boat as you with one of my 1980's - engine is out and I am about to attempt a "noobie-rebuild" - Listen to what DivinDriver sez! Sound advice!!
Yes - you will need a kit as your ebay auction indicates but NOTE: mazda no longer produces a COMPLETE gasket kit for the 79-80 12a!!!! The auction item is a 81-85 kit, MOST of which is useable, so buy it BUT you will at least need the specific 79-80 exhaust and intake Manifold gaskets separately. $140 is about the going rate I believe.
I HIGHLY recommend you splurge $25 for the Atkins 13b Rebuild DVD since procedure is virtually identical and it gives a LOT of well illustrated tips (beware the bad music track tho!! ) atkinsrotary.com. Pineappleracing.com also has some great video internet tutorials (tho no DVD), as well as some excellent custom rebuild products (such as HD water seal kits, etc) that you might want to upgrade to from stock rebuild gaskets if you plan on keeping your '7 and want the very best bits...
Good luck to us both!
Stu Aull
80GSs
Alaska
Old 06-30-08, 11:36 AM
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Looking at your parts pile there, another piece of advice occurred to me:

The black phenolic heat deflector that your carb sits on, has a glued-in-place rubber gasket on top. DO NOT scrape this off; it's "permanent" and not replaceable by itself - - the whole assembly was the "gasket." You don't want to have to try to find one of these if you don't have to; they vary by year & fed/CA/Canada types IIRC, and good ones have become sort of rare. Clean it carefully.
Old 06-30-08, 11:42 AM
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Do not get that gasket set!

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...85&catalogid=1

Print that off and go to an auto store (O'Reillys, Pep Boys, Advance Autos, etc) and have them price match that. Worked for me before.
Old 06-30-08, 11:44 AM
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Also, go ahead and find 2 housings to replace yours. Believe me, you will need it.
Old 06-30-08, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeezus
Do not get that gasket set!

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...85&catalogid=1

Print that off and go to an auto store (O'Reillys, Pep Boys, Advance Autos, etc) and have them price match that. Worked for me before.
+1 on what he said...But I will say this the atkin vids and pinapple vids are over rated and that money can go to something for the motor...

the haynes man. is more then enough to get the job done...

if this is your first time building the motor yes lable everything as fars as bolts and stuff like that and where the side seals and springs came off, as well as the oil control rings and the oil control springs...

As far as apex seals, apex seal springs, corner apex, pac mans, and corner springs throw them away, if your going to build a fresh new motor using old parts from that motor will not be your best choice

here some links that you should go with:

mazdatrix.com

racingbeat.com

really the only two sources you will need for your rebuild between these two you will find everything you need to rebuild the motor...

If you want a exact order list of things you will need pm and i will get that out to you...

teddy
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