xlversatilelx

my step father has just got me a 1980 fb with about 40k original miles on it, i know a few things about fd's my friend owns one, but i have no clue about fb's
i was wondering if i would be able to turbocharge the 12a motor, or would i have to swap a 13b?
if i can with the 12a what type of turbo and where can i get this done (i live in southern CA) ?
What other modifications can i do with the engine to make it more powerful, exause, intake, pulleys, etc.
please add any advice i would gladly appreciate it

rotary emotions

Probable you have an "SA", if it's 1980?
Well, doesn't matter, they are very close anyway.
It is possible to turbocharge a 12A. Has been done several times. Mazda made a 12A turbo for Japan, using lower compression rotors and stuff like that. If you are going to turbo a "normal" 12A, you should be carefull with boost level. I know some people have achieved very high boost levels, but for a start I'd be carefull, and then move on. You could also try to find a 12AT jap-spec engine.
Try www.turbofb.com for more info.
For non-turbo mods, first steps would be Racing Beat exhaust and some Weber (or simular) carb. This will be easy bolt on mods, and free up about 150hp. Next step would be lightweight flywheel. Some say electrical fans ad HP, but if so it won't be much. I did an electrical fan as the stock clutches are pretty old by now, and it was easier to get an electrical fan then buy a new OEM one.
After this, more HP will need you to open up the engine. You can then port the engine (change shapes of the intake and exhaust ports). This is a rather serious mod. For this you'll either need a pro, or be handy. And it costs you at least a gasket set. Personnaly, I would never port without full rebuild. Porting with the right exhaust and intake can take you over 200hp, but more likely is about 160-180.
Before doing this, I'd swap for a 13B, as that gives you more room for growing...
Nevertheless, if going for performance mods, it's always a good idea to make sure the car can handle the extra power. So brakes and things like that must be ok.
With old cars like ours, it's wise to replace some parts of the brake and suspension sytems. Like some say: power is nothing without control :-)

Wankelguy

Yes, the 1980 model designation is SA.
On a side note, 1980 was the first year for electronic ignition, and the system Mazda used on those cars is prone to problems. It can be replaced by installing a 1981 or later 1st gen. distributor, and slightly rewiring the system. I'm about to do the swap on my '80, and will post details when I get it done.

Manntis

Racing Beat exhaust system - it's a bolt-on mod that frees up about 20 HP (though keep your stock stuff for emissions testing)

Racing Beat front swaybar and bushing kit - your car will corner like it's on rails. Causes slight understeer, but in a tail happy car like this one that's a good thing. (but don't mash the throttle or hard brake while cornering, or the back end will come around to say 'hi')

xlversatilelx

kool thanks guys i really appreciate it it was really a lot of help.
yet i am not sure in what year it is im just guessing, hes dropping it off at my place tommorw, ill let you know what year it is. is there any other advice i can do o make the 12a stronger
or would it be wiser just to drop a 13b in there and work from that engine?

Manntis

12a starts at 104 HP (carb'd) and builds up from there.

13b starts at 135 HP (efi) and builds up from there.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

I wish my step dad would buy me a car, lol.

~T.J.

851stgen12a

I personally would keep the 12a. I love my 12a and think it is a little less complicated to work on.
After you have done the bolt on mods IE, Weber or Holly intake, Racing beat Streetport exhaust, you should have freed up around 50HP.
Then you can streetport the motor and get around 200-220Hp at the Flywheel.
Or if you want serious power throw in a 13B Turbo motor. But then you run into higher costs, and usually a little less reliable, plus you have to tune it alot more....

All depends on what you what, and how much money you want to spend.

By the way, what are you planning to do with the car? drag race, auto-x, street race??

xlversatilelx

thanx you been a lot of help, well i plan on just street racing i guess, nothing flashy i just want all the engine work and im happy with it, i have a 67 camaro as well and i plan on getting a 91 civic hatchback, and fixing that up all the way, can you suggest any other modifications i can do with the 12a ?

Rota_Motor

hmm, sounds like another project underway

just a little off topic, but close, where do you make the difference between SA and FB RX-7s?

may sound like a stupid question, but all 1st gens I have seen are SA22C on the ID, and then 2nd gen are FC3S and 3rd gen FD. where do you get the FB designation from?

as for what you can do to the 12A, pretty much everything that can be done to a 13B, just not quite as powerful. basically non turbo, the carb/exhaust and then porting will give you a very strong motor, depending on legalitys go out to a large bridgeport or something, although then you may have trouble with emissions (no idea about what you need to conform to Im from australia)

xlversatilelx

i been really really appreciating all your responses,
as i was looking through parts in racing beat, i was curious if it were possible to have the street ported holley intake system, without the street ported engine, and street port the engine in the furure, same ? with the street port exaust system,
also is there any possibility i can use a apexi exaust or other, would this produce better results, or would it just be better to get the racing beat

unreality

As far as FBs go, Racing Beat is the company to use. ( I mean, from what I gather on the forum, I'm essentially quoting a bunch of other people )

rotary emotions

SA= steel bumpers (rubber inserts/end caps)
FB= urethane bumpers
SA also has smaller rearlightclusters.

SoRRoW

First gen VIN info 101

Look at your vin :

Model Year VIN Ser Numbers
1979 SA22C - 500001 +
1980 SA22C - 600001 +
1981 FB33 - 500001 + (USA)
1982 FB33 - 600001 +
1983 FB33 - 700001 +
1984 FB33 - 800001 +
1985 FB33 - 856209 +


____ VDS (Vehicle Description Section)
|
____V____
J M 1 F B 3 3 1 4 B O 5 1 2 3 4 5
----- --- --- - - - - -----------
^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ Production Serial Number
| | | | | | |
| | | | | | |__ Assembly Plant Code (O = Hiroshima)
| | | | | |
| | | | | |__ Model Year Code (B= 1981, C = 1982, D = 1983...)
| | | | |
| | | | |__ Check Digit *
| | | |
| | | |__ Miscellaneous Identification Code **
| | |
| | |__ Body Style Code
| |
| |__ Car Line Code (FB = RX-7 Series)
|
|__ World Manufacturer Identifier (All Mazda Passenger Cars are
identified by JM1.)


..................

If your RX7 does not have a VIN tag on the dash,You can check the stamped numbers on your right side firewall.There is also a plate in the same area,Me and a friend bought a 83 like 7 months ago,It didnt have a VIN tag on the dash,and I didnt knwo how the insides looked on a 83 Come to find out later,one of the previuos owners put a 84/85 dash but the numbers on the firewall and plate matched up,We checked this before buying the car and you should check that area also if yuo run into the same problems.

SoRRoW

I preach RB products to friends when doing aftermarket mods.

I hate people who buy pace setter/monzda cause its "cheaper' which in really its not much less if you look at thier header set up,Its just a cheap POS if anyone of my friends bought a pacesetter set up and wanted me to install it,I wouldnt do it..
Yeah it sounds like a ******* move,BUT im doing them a favor before headaches happen.

SoRRoW

Yes you can run a street port set up on a non ported engine.It may be hard to understand but I run a 600 double pumper on stock ports,Why?
I needed a carb cause my OEM one was ****,I got a Holley reman 600 double pumper mechanical secondaries for $250. out the door,They were going for $500.? at the time NEW.I bought my fuel pump,intake header and allthe other goodies and saved them then installed it down the line,

I have had NO major problems,Just a little adjust ment of the car here and there which is no problem.Plus when I do port my engine I dont have to go out and buy any extra parts,

My exhast is already 2.5 in ,free flow,no cats,no emission,RB/Holley Intake ,Holley carb,Holley fuel pump..

What I would buy is:
thicker wires,
New radiator,
Bigger E fan,
Thermal pellet,
Bigger oil pump

Thats probally about it,I have everything else I need.

ABOUT using aftermerket NON OEM or RB mufflers,
They will burn outfaster,and get louder.

My car is loud,BUT not rice loud,
Its deep toned,when I get on it, it roars I run a inline race muffler as a presilencer,NON restrictive,so no power loss.

I have had good compliments from 3 diffrent Rotary shop owners in my area,Iknow all the first gen guys I meet like it,I havent had no one say anything about it,besides a couple rednecks.I cant wait till I port it.

Theres nothing that sounds better than a ported rotary,
Besides sex.


I have had ricers on a local forum talk **** about how loud and lopy the idle is ported a engine,calling me brap brap boy..brap brap this and al the other bullsit they come up with,I came up with this on my sig and they dont say **** about it now.

(Brap Brap Brap,Is the sound of me punching holes in your head..and skull ****** some sense in you..Dont compare performance sound to a coldair intake,and a fart can.. )

xlversatilelx

YAY ! i finally got the rx7 dropped off at my house today, the project begins my step dad got it for 500 with 40,000 miles on it, i was wrong with the year being 1980 i checked the badges and they say FB331 or something, but yeah its a 81 i believe, thank you for your help, here goes my first project

rotary emotions

Read sorrows post on VIN codes, it's all there

xlversatilelx

by the way what exactly is the difference between the "SA" and the "FB"
is there any differnece in the engine, etc.

Manntis

body is a slightly different shape, mainly around the front & rear bumpers, and the SA has fewer creature comforts - more of a bare bones sports car.

fatboy7

FB desigation came about when the US made a law that standardized VIN codes. All RX-7's manufactured in 1980+ have FB in the US (1981 model year)

specRX7_22

wow... sorrows VIN post is exactly what i wanted to see. that tells alot! i ALWAYS learn something everytime i browse this board, its great.

--eric

Rota_Motor

hey thanks to the VIN codes etc. cleared up alot for me, I was a bit unknown because Im in oz

here, all the 79-85 models are SA22C designated.
so what you guys class as SA is Series 1 over here, and then FB's are divided into two groups, series 2 and 3, swhich are only minor differences, stud pattern, brakes being the main items changed (between S2/3)

this forum is really very helpful

SoRRoW

Yeah I forgot these are for US cars..it may be diffrent in AU,or Europe.


Heres how some of us classify out first gens,

SA 79-80
FB 81-85 (S,GS,GSL modles included,non 13b)

GSLSE 84/85

I think your series 3 is our GSLSE bigger brakes,diffrent lug pattern,13b FI,but I dont think you gusy had leather seats..

Correct me if im wrong.

Rota_Motor

yeah cool, I got ya now, I can give ya a quick rundown, Series 1 what you cal SA, 13" wheels, rear drum brakes, 12A, no power windows etc. very basic car.
Series 2 I guess what you call FB, bigger taillight assemblies, disc brake rearend, power windows/mirrirs optionable, different guage cluster with oil pressure etc.
S3, sounds to be your GSLSE, basically the same as S2 but bigger brakes and different lug pattern yes, but we in australia still kept the carb 12A until the end of the 1st gen. we also had cloth seats only.

also our S2/3's have the numberplate between the taillights, no filler panel as the US spec do.