Iiiinteresting idea. Electric smog pump. Emissions system mods for emissions zones.
#1
Right near Malloy
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Iiiinteresting idea. Electric smog pump. Emissions system mods for emissions zones.
http://www.1300cc.com/howto/how2/vettepump.htm
Discuss.
Perhaps there's a way that pump can be hooked up to the TPS or some other type of electrical control so that it only runs when needed.
It'd eliminate the need for so many vacuum lines and solenoids and instead, do everything electroncally, IMHO more reliable. Plus it'd free up engine horsepower. (To turn the alternator and produce the necessary 10 amps.)
Discuss.
Perhaps there's a way that pump can be hooked up to the TPS or some other type of electrical control so that it only runs when needed.
It'd eliminate the need for so many vacuum lines and solenoids and instead, do everything electroncally, IMHO more reliable. Plus it'd free up engine horsepower. (To turn the alternator and produce the necessary 10 amps.)
Originally Posted by peejay
The solenoid rack (only Turkeys who don't know and don't care to know how things work call it a "Rat's Nest") is still in place.
As I said, it's a bone stock '85. It has a header and converter on it as well. Having a converter doesn't matter much when the factory emissions equipment dumps the air from the air pump into the air cleaner because the engine is revving well into the "must keep converter safe!" range. OEM's run engines rich to save the cat. If the cat is getting HC's and CO's but no free O2's to convert it all into CO2's and H20's, then the converter doesn't do anything, and if it doesn't do anything then it cools off. Lots of OEM's will momentarily blip the engine rich if it's been running in closed loop for long stretches.
So this is the problem. Running at 3500ish RPM, the control box is directing the Solenoids to control the ACV to dump the air from the Air Pump right back into the Air Cleaner. With the carburetor running at factory-specified Way Too Damned Rich, all free O2s get used up in the combustion chamber, and with no O2 being added to the exhaust stream, the Converter just gets a lot of HC and CO and no O2 with which to do some actual Converting. So it stays cool and lives to clean another day.
So what needs to be done, is to alter the ACV in such a way that, no matter what the Control Box is telling the Solenoids to do, the air from the Air Pump will definitely, positively get sent to the Exhaust Ports under ALL conditions. This is bad, very BAD for Converter Life! But what is WORSE for Converter Life is to be attached to a car going to the Crusher because it can't get registered because it Will Not Pass a test that, in the State's infinite wisdom, is run OUTSIDE of the conditions that the car was originally designed for. So the ACV gets altered, the car passes, and then it gets de-altered so that the converter stays happy and healthy, which is much better for air quality than a dead converter!
As I said, it's a bone stock '85. It has a header and converter on it as well. Having a converter doesn't matter much when the factory emissions equipment dumps the air from the air pump into the air cleaner because the engine is revving well into the "must keep converter safe!" range. OEM's run engines rich to save the cat. If the cat is getting HC's and CO's but no free O2's to convert it all into CO2's and H20's, then the converter doesn't do anything, and if it doesn't do anything then it cools off. Lots of OEM's will momentarily blip the engine rich if it's been running in closed loop for long stretches.
So this is the problem. Running at 3500ish RPM, the control box is directing the Solenoids to control the ACV to dump the air from the Air Pump right back into the Air Cleaner. With the carburetor running at factory-specified Way Too Damned Rich, all free O2s get used up in the combustion chamber, and with no O2 being added to the exhaust stream, the Converter just gets a lot of HC and CO and no O2 with which to do some actual Converting. So it stays cool and lives to clean another day.
So what needs to be done, is to alter the ACV in such a way that, no matter what the Control Box is telling the Solenoids to do, the air from the Air Pump will definitely, positively get sent to the Exhaust Ports under ALL conditions. This is bad, very BAD for Converter Life! But what is WORSE for Converter Life is to be attached to a car going to the Crusher because it can't get registered because it Will Not Pass a test that, in the State's infinite wisdom, is run OUTSIDE of the conditions that the car was originally designed for. So the ACV gets altered, the car passes, and then it gets de-altered so that the converter stays happy and healthy, which is much better for air quality than a dead converter!
#2
Savanna Rx-7
Originally Posted by Pele
http://www.1300cc.com/howto/how2/vettepump.htm
Discuss.
Perhaps there's a way that pump can be hooked up to the TPS or some other type of electrical control so that it only runs when needed.
It'd eliminate the need for so many vacuum lines and solenoids and instead, do everything electroncally, IMHO more reliable. Plus it'd free up engine horsepower. (To turn the alternator and produce the necessary 10 amps.)
Discuss.
Perhaps there's a way that pump can be hooked up to the TPS or some other type of electrical control so that it only runs when needed.
It'd eliminate the need for so many vacuum lines and solenoids and instead, do everything electroncally, IMHO more reliable. Plus it'd free up engine horsepower. (To turn the alternator and produce the necessary 10 amps.)
take the electric smog pump from a cheap source (I vote chevy casue they are cheap ****) and wire it with a bosch relay. there is an open sensor position on the throttle body of my car, not sure about the US versions though, it is designed to hold one of them on-off screw in plug switchs, if yours has a threaded spot on the linkage that would work you could do the same I guess. wire your relay to that and get a switch where the throttle linkage casue the switch to be in the closed position = pump turns, step just a little on the gas, pump stops.
does that help or give you any ideas that might work?
ken
sorry, didn't see the link about the chevy pump, put the premisis that they are hot garbage still stands => chevies
ken
Last edited by kenn_chan; 03-20-05 at 05:04 PM.
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um actually to fool proof pass you want to bypass all the solenoids anyways, like pj did
#4
Savanna Rx-7
Originally Posted by j9fd3s
um actually to fool proof pass you want to bypass all the solenoids anyways, like pj did
thats OK for the inspection time, but if you run it like that while your cruising, without the bypass valve operating its gonna have hot exhaust traving back up that tube adn into your electric air pump, might not be such a good idea.
I think pele wanted a permanent solution he could leave on, not just for inspection times.
kenn
#5
Absolute Power is Awesome
This would be a really nice way to keep the car e-legal all the time if you're controlling fuel with an engine management system. Thanks for the tip.
#6
Absolute Power is Awesome
Originally Posted by kenn_chan
thats OK for the inspection time, but if you run it like that while your cruising, without the bypass valve operating its gonna have hot exhaust traving back up that tube adn into your electric air pump, might not be such a good idea.
I think pele wanted a permanent solution he could leave on, not just for inspection times.
kenn
I think pele wanted a permanent solution he could leave on, not just for inspection times.
kenn
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Originally Posted by kenn_chan
thats OK for the inspection time, but if you run it like that while your cruising, without the bypass valve operating its gonna have hot exhaust traving back up that tube adn into your electric air pump, might not be such a good idea.
I think pele wanted a permanent solution he could leave on, not just for inspection times.
kenn
I think pele wanted a permanent solution he could leave on, not just for inspection times.
kenn
and b) its easier to pass if you setup the acv so it cant vent the air pump air to the air cleaner like they do when they are bad
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