Zukied

just driving yesterday night went to turn my lights off and BOOM, well no BOOM, but the lights went off but they didnt go down, both of them. So i know both of the motors didnt take a crap at the same time, its gotta be a wire/fuseable link some where.

Another quuestion, Theres only ones fusebox on these things right? I see theres a "fuseable" type deal next to the battery that has 3 connectors on there on for the retactor (what i think is problem for the lights) Main , and Head. what the hell is it?

THANKS!!

84stock

iTrader: (5)

Yep, fusible link, happened to me too. I always score some at the wreckers so I have spares.

Zukied

So its the fusible link on that block that has the retractor/main/head? and if so am i right that it would be the retractor? last but not least if it is could i just run a basic "jumper" wire to just bypass the link? THANKS!

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

DO NOT use a jumper wire in place of the fusible link!!! replace it with the correct fusible link. the retractor fusible link can blow and when it does, you will not have function of the headlight morots.

Zukied

does mazda still sell the fusible links?

hoang5659

iTrader: (14)

if you can, go to a junkyard to find them. they are quite expensive for what they are.

©ØÐËߣüË

iTrader: (1)

Yes I think you can still get them from the dealer. The best thing to do is put in the 2nd gen fuse block, in place of the fusible links. It's super easy, and looks way better

Zukied

I called the dealer they have to order them , one runs 5.10 other is 6.20. Ill post the mazda # when i get them so people wont have to chase them down like i did. thanks!

challer2000

I have been running the fusable links (plastic ones) from autozone with no problems for over two years.... They are about $3 each. There website is now help but here is what they look like.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...edVehicle=true

Zukied

i ordered them from the dealer today i got 10 total, the guy showed me the page showing how many there are left in the states and theres maybe 200 left in the whole US. As far as the murray fusible link i wouldnt use it because its a 30 amp fuse, i have no idea what the factory one is, i know they are 10 ohms and 7 ohms , and if i remember correctly ohms law is voltage divided by resistance. So that would be 1.2, and 1.7 amps. if you have a 30 amp in place of those and a unknown resistance pops up needing more amperage your gonna fry some wires... thats if i remember correctly. They run 5.10 and 6.20 a piece. ill post part #'s in a lil

IanS

iTrader: (4)

That would mean then that your MAIN fuse is only a 1.7 amp fuse in which your 55-60 amp alternator would melt it in less than a second. The MAIN being a 60 amp rated fuse (or higher depending on application) makes sense.

Zukied

Thats what the mazda dealer computer said! one is 7 ohm one is 10. I agree that 1.7 dosent sound right but the math is right. Even though an alternator is rated at 55-60 amps dosent mean that it puts out 55-60 amps all the time, it will only put out what it needs, but obviously 1.7 amps is easily used up by just basic functions of the car. So i dunno , Im just gonna stick with the OEM mazda fusible links. thanks for the help guys!

workinprogress80

Here is a chart I have that can help you convert into the proper modern fusible links

challer2000

I was just using the picture as a reference… I run the 60amp and two 30amps., but I have a SA. That website also has a 40, 60 and 50amp. If you’re interested I would check your local auto parts store. Advanced near me had just about any one you could think of.