Idling Problems (GSL-SE)
#1
Yankle My Wankel
Thread Starter
Idling Problems (GSL-SE)
I just got my GSL-SE last month, and Its been parked for awhile, I occasionally take it out for a ride not to let it sit, and it has had an idle problem since I bought it. I figured I'd just do a tune up when I got the car registered (I haven't done a tune up yet though), and that would solve it. I've been looking into replacing the fuel filter, oil and filter, spark plugs, wires, a can of seafoam as I've read many times, and coolant. My car warms up at 2000rpm most of the time, some times its higher, and drops down to 1200 or so when its warmed up, and the idle constantly rises as the car gets driven more (I've assumed this is for cooling purposes as its a mechanical fan), most of the time I can lower the idle by revving the engine above 3000rpm for a brief moment. But then something weird happened today. I almost couldn't get it started after getting gas (I turned the key but no crank), but evenually it went, and then later it would crank, but the rpm's wouldn't be high even for me to start it (again, started after a little fuss). Then later at night when I was messing around with the air box (trying to find a way to bolt on a k&n, found an adapter on ebay though) I thought I bolted on everything I needed to, and when I went to start it, it did the usual rev to 2000 then down, and it idled perfectly! Steady 800rpm, maybe cleaning the airfilter did something, not sure, but when I revved it again, it raised the idle to 1200, and then I left it for a bit, making sure I had all of my hoses back on, and I revved it again. It shot waaay down to less than 800 rpm, shaking violently, and then stalled. I couldn't get it to start back up (plus it was dark out). I just tried it again a few hours later, and it started, but wouldn't idle high at all, and stalled out. Any idea on what this is. And could it be fixed with the tune up, and TPS/idle adjustments
#4
two things come to mind, the BAC and AFM. The BAC on the side of the throttle body varys the intake of air when the throttle plates close (IDLE). If that sticks you can get a hairy idle. The AFM flapper can stick, that measures the air intake a accomodated with the appropriate amount of fuel, if that sticks, same thing. All things should have nice fluid motions. Do a search on the GSL-SE idle problems and read everything@!
#5
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (13)
Since you were working around the MAF, 1st check the plug that goes into the MAF and ensure that it is all the way in.
Then You need to make sure that the clamp is tight where the air intake hose goes around the neck on the AFM. Also check the clamp where the two pieces of the air intake hose join, They sometimes come apart and will cause a massive vacuum leak. Also make sure that the small hose that comes out of the air intake hose and goes into the plenum chamber is secure and the nuts that secure the hose to the t/body are secure.
Another thing to listen for is if you can hear the fuel pump come on when you just turn the ignition to the on position. If it is coming on at that time then inspect the AFM flap door to see if it is slightly open. If it is then the door is warped and the AFM needs to be replaced.
Report back after checking the above things.
If you don't find trouble with any of the above areas then I will guide you further.
The Se can be a very challenging 7 to diagnose. I have found that it is best to proceed in steps, don't attempt to test or check too many things at once. :-)
Then You need to make sure that the clamp is tight where the air intake hose goes around the neck on the AFM. Also check the clamp where the two pieces of the air intake hose join, They sometimes come apart and will cause a massive vacuum leak. Also make sure that the small hose that comes out of the air intake hose and goes into the plenum chamber is secure and the nuts that secure the hose to the t/body are secure.
Another thing to listen for is if you can hear the fuel pump come on when you just turn the ignition to the on position. If it is coming on at that time then inspect the AFM flap door to see if it is slightly open. If it is then the door is warped and the AFM needs to be replaced.
Report back after checking the above things.
If you don't find trouble with any of the above areas then I will guide you further.
The Se can be a very challenging 7 to diagnose. I have found that it is best to proceed in steps, don't attempt to test or check too many things at once. :-)
#6
Yankle My Wankel
Thread Starter
Hmm, good idea, I'll check that tomorrow. I believe my se has a flooding problem as well, I couldn't get it to start yesterday, untill I removed the spark plugs, and were filthy, and drenched in fuel, I cleaned them, and it ran. My father borrowed the 7 today to get my new kumho tires, and when I tried to start it when he dropped it off I had no luck. I checked the plugs shortly after, and again they were filthy and drenched in fuel, so maybe I have a leaky injector somewhere, or even what you said rx7docter. I'll check the AFM first though.
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83revival
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09-03-15 10:42 PM