Rock auto is the only place that stocks this idler arm?

 

You can get them at some auto parts stores, too. Advance Auto near me was able to get them.

 

I installed the moog unit.
Car still has horrible steering, what is there left to replace or adjust?
I just want a frickin car that drives straight

 

I know there is adjustment that can be made but it is very minimal. Have you replaced everything else Jack?

 

This thread caused my rebuilt idler arm to fail... I noticed this thread. Then a day or two later, I heard a horrible crunching sound when I turned the wheel. My idler arm was toast. It was a stock one that I had rebuilt.

Luckily, this thread was here and I went to Kragen to get my Moog idler arm for half what Mazdatrix charges. And, they kicked down a free tool to remove the pressed in part which I returned when I was done.

The MOOG unit is far better.

Serendipity baby!

 

Car steers much better now. Installed new balanced front tires, moog idler arm, tighten up front wheel barrings and alignment.

 

i found out autozone carries them but, they dont list it as moog instead its duralast, i bought a moog one and there duralast one and there identical you can not tell one for the other.

 

Interesting. The "alternate part number" for their Duralast tie rods and pitman arm are the Moog part numbers, but the idler arm doesn't have an "alternate part number." It would be nice if we could get side by side inspection of the two.

 

I just picked up the Moog unit from RA (about $43 now).

Looks pretty straight forward - but can anyone offer any removal or install tips before I jump in & disable my seven.

It's in working order right now (& snowing). So I'm not in a huge rush.

Thanks.

 

Since the auto zone and moog part are essentially the same thing the integrity of both pieces will be the same, correct?
I have a friend that works at auto zone and could possibly get me a discount. I don't want to sacrifice the integrity of a valuable part over 10$.


Edit:
Pulled up a couple other sites where they discussed the integrity of both parts. Although the duralast part is built to the same standards of Moog but the metal composition of the two companies is different apparently, the duralast isn't as strong.
So according to a van, fire bird, and Toyota forum Moog is the best option.

 

The frame-attaching bolts go all the way through - - don't freak out if they start rotating, they are not stripped. Just get a wrench on the bolt head in the fender well.

Separate the steering connection before unbolting from the frame. That's about it.

 

Replaced my worn out stock idler arm with a Moog unit at 56k miles on my 85 GSL-SE in 1994. Just replaced it with another Moog unit in 2012 at 138k miles. So 18 years and roughly 82K miles seems like money well spent to me.

 

What was the failure mode? What did it look like after you removed it? What were the conditions -- i.e. high heat from headers?

 

I was pretty desperate about doing something with my "wonder' steering like so many others. When the car was up I didn't notice any problems with my idler arm or other linkages, so I proceeded with the steering gear box adjustments with reasonable success.

How do you know that your Idler Arm needs replacing?
It sounded like when the Idler Arm goes bad it was fairly dramatic. Is that true? So when it does go out, it's pretty obvious? Or can it be just sort of worn out thus effecting the steering and be difficult to diagnose?

I saw the price of the Mazdarix "race" unit and was scared away by the price. But for the cost of the Moog unit, I'd go ahead and get one to keep on my parts shelf for the next time I have the car up.

 

Use heat, and hit the side not strait on the bolt.


I think the oe mazda idler arm unit is the type with the big washer on top so it won't fall out and really dramaticly afect steering./.. it'll just give you a shaky ride for a while.

 

I guess the effect can vary quite a bit. When mine failed, the plastic bushings basically disentegrated. As you mentioned, the large washer will keep the idler arm from falling out of the housing, but the handling was scary. I was at a track day, and when I got up to higher speeds, the car would move sideways at least 3 feet without warning.

When it first happened, I pulled in to check my suspension. With the front of the car on jack stands, steering wheel locked, the left front wheel was locked in position, while I was able to move the right front wheel back and forth a lot.

 

Moog vs. Stock just for beefiness comparison.