and it worked before you took out the interior?

 

Yep, it worked fine. But, like I said earlier, then I found the engine fuse blown... I wonder if there's a short somewhere?

 

The only other thing I've done to it since the last time it ran was disconnecting the emissions and switching the exhaust over. Would any of the electrical connectors from the emissions affect it starting?

 

Yes!! big yes. You took out he ecu right? You need to jumper the conector under your dash.

 

This should do you, it's what I did but now I run a toggle.

...'84-'85 12A carbureted models... The fuel pump was controlled by the "fuel pump cut relay", which was controlled by the rotary engine's ECU. The "fuel pump cut relay" is no longer needed and can be removed. When it is removed, the following modifications are required at connector B-06, which formerly plugged into the removed relay.
.........black w/ white stripe... This wire comes from a 20A fuse that gets it's power from the ignition switch in the "start" & "run" positions. Connect this wire with the blue w/ white stripe wire in this B-07 connector.
.........blue w/ white stripe... This wire goes to the "+" side of the fuel pump. Connect this wire with the black w/ white stripe wire in this B-07 connector.

 

Huh? What ECU? Where is the ECU? Do I need to remove it? What the hell?

 

unless it's a GSL-SE, it doesn't have an ECU or a fuel pump relay. i'd start at the pump itself and follow the wires back.

 

Yes, yes it does. ECU in the case of a FB with a 12a is "emissions control unit". It is the box with a mitubishi symbol under a plate in your passenger foot well.

 

Mine is a '85, and I have had to do this first hand.

 

If you removed the rats nest, removing the ECU should have been apart of that.

To those that don't believe it has an ECU, what do you think controls all of the emissions crap?

 

So I need to remove that plate, take out the box, jumper the fuel pump, and all is well in the world?

 

I didn't remove the rats nest... I just removed the exhaust, smog pump, and the big valve do-hickey from under the manifold. (I want to call it the EGR valve...)

 

hmmmm, Okay, don't remove the box. Just jumper that conection and see what you get when you turn the ing. on.

 

Hey, I'll be happy to remove the rats nest too.

 

Ummm... have you tested the pump itself by hooking it up to a 12v source yet?
It'd suck to be doing all this just find out you have a dead pump...

 

Well, it's just funny that a week ago, the pump worked fine, I change the exhaust and wham, it's not working.

 

Hey, I didn't say it was likely... just an easy thing to check, before going throught the whole harness...

 

Alright, any other ideas?

 

Can I just run a wire from the positive on the battery back to the fuel pump itself to test it? I went and bought a new fuel pump anyway, but I just want to make absolutely sure this is the problem.

Do I run a wire from the negative on the battery to the negative on the fuel pump, or do I just ground the fuel pump to the chassis?

 

Run just a positive, but if the ground is bad on it, for some reason then you would need both.

I had a similar problem on my 83, turned out the outlet on the gas tank rusted enough to not allow fuel to be sucked out, the pump was just sucking air.......

 

I had to completely rewire my pump in the 85... Damn I wish I'd known about the ECU jumper. That would have saved me lots of time and the pain of finding someplace to stuff a damn relay.

By the way, my pump drove me crazy until I ran a positive from the battery straight to it. All of my wiring conections were just fine. There was some issue that could not be seen. And then... 15 feet of 16 gauge wire, a relay, some solder, and minor adjustment to my rebuilt carb and she fired right up.