rage

I'm gonna go ape ****. i spent four days troubleshooting. all the wires have continuity, the switches look like they work. i have voltage reading afterthe switch before the motor when i depress or raise the switch. i used straight battery power to the motors and they work both up and down. this is also happening on both sides. the fuse isn't blown. i hard wire battery power bypassing where ignition power would go before the main switch on the driver side and grounded it and i get power and continuity all the way up to the motor. i checked the passenger side for continuity and voltage from the lock out (being on) position and everything seems to be all good. for some reason the motor rather have battery power than whats coming out of the switch. what the hell am i doing wrong. i don't have much hair as it is and i'm gonna rip that one out too. (so much for that comb over)

rhinor61

"looks like the switches work" Thats not something I would bank on.

Also when did first gens have lock on on the switches?

Since I am not there to help, I would look for the amount of voltage to the switch, and out of the switch.


Most likely bad switch or open wiring



John

Manntis

Continuity is one thing; is there a voltage drop through the switch or elsewhere in the harness? Keep in mind it's a long way from the switch, through the console, around the seats, up to the doors, around the sharp corner into the doors, and to the motor. There are several potential worn-wire spots even if the switch is good.

One thing I did with my Audi was take the switches apart, clean the contacts (a pink pencil eraser works perfectly) and reassemble. Made a world of difference.

Metallic_rock

having rebuilt switches on 1st gens a bunch of times, when you pull it apart, remember that there are 2 little rollers in there that will easily fall out. Recommend working over a towel or something that will hold the little parts that may fall out. clean out the gunk that has invariably built up, and then, yes, an eraser is good for cleaning the contacts.

when putting it back together, use a tiny dab of vasaline to hold the rollers in their slot before re-assembling. This may save you an hour of exasperation.

anthrax

Do you have some sort of a 12v light?

If you do take the light and hook it up to the switch, and if the light lights up there is power, but also take a meeter and check BOTH sides of the switch for power. Like Manntis said each the switch may be causing a voltage drop or a dead short.

DC is a BITCH!!

Good luck

a

rage

see, the problem is that i checked using a test light and a meter. where is the regulator and what does it do? if it goes bad, can i put another inline with it? the voltage is different from the battery but it's the same as all the accessories in the car...power mirror, dome light, etc....???????when i hard wired the power window system, i get the same amought of power as in the battery. it's so weird!

rage

sorry you guys, i posted in the wrong spot but this still might help. i was suppose to have posted this in the 2nd gen.

i found out what i did wrong. i finally took apart both switch (for the billionth time) and the metal tiny tabs inside the switch can only be installed (or placed) in one way. if any of the tabs are incorrectly placed you'll either short a fuse, window will only go in one direction, continue going, or won't work at all. damn, this whole time i've checked the wiring and never thought of the tabs till i started cleaning them. my switches were fairly clean to begin with. the tabs on one side is a little wider than the otherside, and where you place them you'll know that there's only one way, the only problem is that it just doesn't look write. i hope this thread will help anyone else who might have this problem and thanks you guys for the help. i don't think you can get away with leaving the tabs or the lever switch offif one broke, something still has to be their to complete the circuit.