I need to throw in a 2.73:1 gear into the rear end.....
I need to throw in a 2.73:1 gear into the rear end.....
Well like the title say's I need the 2.73:1 gear to toss into my rear end. Any idea's on where I can get this gear, or is this going to be a custom setup?????
those gears aren't made for the mazda diff.
you can put an 8.8 ford diff in and some mustangs come with 2.73 or 3.08 or 3.27
you will have to have it narrowed and have the brackets welded on and then adapt the brake lines
you can put an 8.8 ford diff in and some mustangs come with 2.73 or 3.08 or 3.27
you will have to have it narrowed and have the brackets welded on and then adapt the brake lines
Well the plan for the car is to road race it, and the speed group Id like to run in is 130+ group. Then what is the tallest gear I can toss in there, and not have to worry about being at 6K at 130 mph. Id like to be sitting around 3.5K ideally at those speeds since this will be for long distnaces at a time.
Joined: May 2002
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From: Ottawa, Soviet Canuckistan
130MPH for long distances on the road? **** man, that doesn't sound safe at all. I don't know exactly what that is in km/h but it sounds forkin' fast.
As a matter of fact, at more than double the posted speed limit, that sounds like "pound-me-in-the-*** federal prision" kinda fast!
(quote courteousy of Office Space
)
Jon
As a matter of fact, at more than double the posted speed limit, that sounds like "pound-me-in-the-*** federal prision" kinda fast!
(quote courteousy of Office Space
)Jon
Play Well
Joined: Feb 2005
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From: We're all fine here now, thank you. How are you?
130mph is like 240kmp correct me if I am wrong. Not that fast really. And are you talking about the topspeed road races they have like out in California. But damn I didnt think you would need rockey gears to go that speed.
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Tallest gear I know of for an RX-7 is actually the stock 3.909. I've never heard of anything higher than that. You can go with a ford 8.8 from a mustang, use FWD offset wheels so you don't have to narrow it (as far as I know), and slap the 3.08 from a 89-95 thunderbird or cougar. The t-birds and cougars come with IRS, but the ring and pinion are the same as any other 8.8 and most likely easier to come across as there are tons of them in the junkyards.
130 mph equals about 210 kph, you'll have no pull at low speed though, I would aim at about 3.5 rer ratio, I know of a 3.77 available, you're going to spend too much time getting up to speed which will affect your average from point a to point b
The plan is to put in the T-II. This is the link to the kind of racing Im planning on doing.
http://www.silverstateclassic.com/ And since this will be for long distances I want to keep the RPM's down so I can keep the heat and fuel consumption down. And doing 130 MPH will hopefulyy be nothing. Id like to target a top speed of around 150 mph if not more.
http://www.silverstateclassic.com/ And since this will be for long distances I want to keep the RPM's down so I can keep the heat and fuel consumption down. And doing 130 MPH will hopefulyy be nothing. Id like to target a top speed of around 150 mph if not more.
If you go too tall of a rear gear ratio, you may not have enough power to pull that kind of speed.
Another option that you can look into, is an aux overdrive unit. This would give you the gearing needed to get up to speed quicker, and the ability to lower the RPM once you have attained the speed.
Another option that you can look into, is an aux overdrive unit. This would give you the gearing needed to get up to speed quicker, and the ability to lower the RPM once you have attained the speed.
One website says that you can use the 3.308:1 out of an 82-84 diesel B2000/Ford Courier, that'll put you at about 4600rpm@130mph with a gear limited top speed of 200mph, and that could save you money. But, the more important question is how much power do you have? If you're going to be making over 300 the stock drivetrain shouldn't be utilized.
Originally Posted by Roundabout
doing stuff like this on public roads is just asking for trouble, but if you must do it, make sure you have pleanty of downforce
Originally Posted by Roundabout
well enlighten me on your definition of road racing....
Well the plan for the car is to road race it, and the speed group Id like to run in is 130+ group. Then what is the tallest gear I can toss in there, and not have to worry about being at 6K at 130 mph. Id like to be sitting around 3.5K ideally at those speeds since this will be for long distnaces at a time.
Originally Posted by Roundabout
well enlighten me on your definition of road racing....
Read the thread, it was mentioned once or twice before.
I also agree with Directfreak, the first gen isn't that aerodynamic of a car. The FC with the aero package is decent, I remember its CD being something like .31 which isn't too bad. I imagine a third gen would be your best bet for aero though.
Originally Posted by Roundabout
well enlighten me on your definition of road racing....
haha even 'road racing' where would you run a FB without it going air-born at those speeds?
i think we need a little more info from the poster about what he plans to do. that gearing i can only think being helpful would be on salt-flats, it would take one helluva track for those to be useful.
i would look into the older mazda rear-ends, or totally hack-job the one you have. the auto with a torque convertor is a really good idea, too. however the auto's for these cars are very weak. maybe look into fabbing up a adapter plate and using a diffnerent transmission/rear end entirely if you are that serious.
g'luck
i think we need a little more info from the poster about what he plans to do. that gearing i can only think being helpful would be on salt-flats, it would take one helluva track for those to be useful.
i would look into the older mazda rear-ends, or totally hack-job the one you have. the auto with a torque convertor is a really good idea, too. however the auto's for these cars are very weak. maybe look into fabbing up a adapter plate and using a diffnerent transmission/rear end entirely if you are that serious.
g'luck
.31 CD means nothing when it comes to downforce, CD is coefficient of drag, the amount of resistence the car causes when moving through the air, down force is directing the airflow to push the ends of the car down increasing traction.
An FB can easily be made to have decent downforce with testing and proper airdams, skirts and a good efficient rear wing.
You need to aim at 3.77 or similar for your diff or you wont be able to get up to speed within a decent time frame, you have to have an average speed from a standing start in these events.
For those who dont know many of these events are held, they are legal, regulated and held on very fast, stretches of good tarmac, the event is dial in your average speed and then the car closest to that actual speed over the course wins, usually from 50 miles to 150 miles in length.
130 mph is actually considered a beginners class, groupings up to 200 mph and over exist.
An FB can easily be made to have decent downforce with testing and proper airdams, skirts and a good efficient rear wing.
You need to aim at 3.77 or similar for your diff or you wont be able to get up to speed within a decent time frame, you have to have an average speed from a standing start in these events.
For those who dont know many of these events are held, they are legal, regulated and held on very fast, stretches of good tarmac, the event is dial in your average speed and then the car closest to that actual speed over the course wins, usually from 50 miles to 150 miles in length.
130 mph is actually considered a beginners class, groupings up to 200 mph and over exist.



