i need help with a wiring harness
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i need help with a wiring harness
i tried the second gen forum with no success, and ive had great results with this part of the forum so i figured i would give it a try here.im motor swaping my first gen and the front harness of my 88 NA s4 was chopped up by the idiot who sold me the motor. i need help filling in the rest of the ecu plug any help would be greatly appreciated
#2
http://foxed.ca/foxed/index.php?page=rx7manual
check the wiring diagrams section in the 88 fsm should list everything for you...
check the wiring diagrams section in the 88 fsm should list everything for you...
#3
FB+FC=F-ME
L,G,W,R.....all go directly to the CAS.(distributor)
G/Y......goes directly to the leading coil.
L/Y,Br/Y,L/R....all go directly to the trailing coil.
Thats all you need to make it run.The rest of the stuff is not critical unless you are trying to pass smog or are going for a 100% reproduction of the factory setup.Even then,not all of the wires are/can be used.You should de-pin the ones you dont need, to prevent any shorting.
Heres the rest.........
B/Y....goes to the floor overheat switch.
Br....goes to the water temp switch in the bottom of the radiator.
L/W.....goes to the A/C relay.
L/B....goes to 20,000 mile switch in the gauge cluster.
B/R....goes to the "shift up" idiot light.
R/Y.....goes to the air injection bypass switch via the big right side harness.
Br/R....goes to the port air injection solenoid via the big right side harness.
L/O.....goes to the A/C fan switch/refrigerant pressure switch.
Y,Y/R,Y/B...check connector wires for hooking up MIL code LED lights(check engine)
O......for another check connector,not used on the S4...for pulling MIL codes on S5
B/L.....goes to 5th gear switch,controls air pump output during highway cruising.
G/B....goes to neutral switch,tells cruise control to turn off,along with clutch switch.
Br/W....goes to clutch switch or inhibitor switch on A/T cars.
LG/B.....goes to power steering pressure switch.
Thats all 24 wires......I see our info differs a bit.I pulled all this from the FSM and I have done a few FC swaps,one just last week.
G/Y......goes directly to the leading coil.
L/Y,Br/Y,L/R....all go directly to the trailing coil.
Thats all you need to make it run.The rest of the stuff is not critical unless you are trying to pass smog or are going for a 100% reproduction of the factory setup.Even then,not all of the wires are/can be used.You should de-pin the ones you dont need, to prevent any shorting.
Heres the rest.........
B/Y....goes to the floor overheat switch.
Br....goes to the water temp switch in the bottom of the radiator.
L/W.....goes to the A/C relay.
L/B....goes to 20,000 mile switch in the gauge cluster.
B/R....goes to the "shift up" idiot light.
R/Y.....goes to the air injection bypass switch via the big right side harness.
Br/R....goes to the port air injection solenoid via the big right side harness.
L/O.....goes to the A/C fan switch/refrigerant pressure switch.
Y,Y/R,Y/B...check connector wires for hooking up MIL code LED lights(check engine)
O......for another check connector,not used on the S4...for pulling MIL codes on S5
B/L.....goes to 5th gear switch,controls air pump output during highway cruising.
G/B....goes to neutral switch,tells cruise control to turn off,along with clutch switch.
Br/W....goes to clutch switch or inhibitor switch on A/T cars.
LG/B.....goes to power steering pressure switch.
Thats all 24 wires......I see our info differs a bit.I pulled all this from the FSM and I have done a few FC swaps,one just last week.
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