i don't know anything about this car
#1
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i don't know anything about this car
i have an 85 rx7. i've had it for 4 years now, and i really haven't the slightest idea about anything that goes wrong with it (u can blame it on my femininity if u want). but one of my main concerns right now is that when i'm idling it revs really hard (the needle is up to about 3,500 RPMS), and it is REALLY loud. almost annoying when i'm driving. what could be the problem and what are sum solutions? oh... and my choke thingie doesn't work... there's no resistance when i pull or push it, so i'm assuming that it is broken, because it USED TO work. ok... someone help... please. before i have to put my baby to rest, cuz i can't deal with it anymore.
#4
Terrified.
I'm no expert by any means, but it sounds to me like your choke is broken making it on constantly. I've not had my choke break on me so I don't know what its like. Obviously you need to get it fixed though if there is no resistance. Try that and if that doesn't help then someone on here will know the source of all your problems.
Last edited by Naegleria_Fowleri; 12-13-05 at 12:07 AM.
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Leaking oil like crazy!
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Is it fuel injected or carburated is what he is asking. Or tell us the model. GSL-SE or anything else? Is this a problem all of the time or just at certain times? How long has it been doing this? We need a little more information.
edit: I guess that a choke **** means that it is carburated. I agree with what was said above. That sounds like it could definately be the problem.
edit: I guess that a choke **** means that it is carburated. I agree with what was said above. That sounds like it could definately be the problem.
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#12
Terrified.
I just wanted to hit the 100 posts mark. I've been a member for far too long to not have hit it yet, and figured I may as well post it here. Sorry for the wasted post.
#13
but even with the choke out it wouldnt idle at 3500 rpm... I would try adjusting the idle on the carb.
To check if the choke is just on all the time pop the hood, pop off the top of the air cleaner (big blue circular thing). and look down into the carb.
You should see four tunnel things (lay term for carb barrels), two small, two big. The big ones are on the passenger side.
If theres sort of a metal plate partially covering the smaller ones (on the driver's side) then yes the choke is on.
Hope this helps, I would hate to see anyone waste their money bringing their 1st gen into a modern car dealer for something we can fix with a little info.
To check if the choke is just on all the time pop the hood, pop off the top of the air cleaner (big blue circular thing). and look down into the carb.
You should see four tunnel things (lay term for carb barrels), two small, two big. The big ones are on the passenger side.
If theres sort of a metal plate partially covering the smaller ones (on the driver's side) then yes the choke is on.
Hope this helps, I would hate to see anyone waste their money bringing their 1st gen into a modern car dealer for something we can fix with a little info.
#14
Airflow is my life
Nooooooooooooo, dont adjust anything till you know whats wrong. If the choke/fast idle is jammed full on it WILL idle that fast. Its probably stuck open from what you described.
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it's manual transmission and it has a manual choke. and i just talked to my dad about it, since you all are giving me some info, and he just said that he did something to the accelerator cable. he said it's worn out (wires or something are frayed), so he adjusted it or something, so that it would rev hard, or else my car would be constantly shut off when i come to stops, etc... hell, now i'm even more confused.
#20
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Yeah, it does sound like a stuck choke cable. I fixed this exact problem on a lady's '85 GSL last spring. A tug and a shot of WD-40 lubricant was all it took. Dust and dirt had accumulated in the cable's sheathing where it attached to the carb, causing it to jam in the closed (ie: high-rpm) setting. (oddly enough, my wife and I now own this car having bought it from her, but that's another story).
To check this, remove the large blue air filter housing on top of the carb. (The one that sez"Mazda Rotary Engine" in white print on it).
To do this you will need to undo the four clips that hold the cover onto the housing and then remove the cover.
Next, remove the nut in the center of the carb, the one that holds the blue housing onto the top of the carb. You should now be able to lift the housing up slightly, but it will still be held by several hoses (five in total) that attach to various orfices on the underside of the housing.
Disconnect all hoses from the underside of the housing. If you're not sure you can remember how they go back together simply mark each hose and attach point with a light-colored marker so that you don't mix them up or forget to reattach one of them. The housing can now be completely removed.
Now start the car and allow it to run until the temperature guage reads at its normal operating temp. Have somebody pull/push on the choke ****. As they do this, look to the rear left-hand side of the carb. You should see at least one of the three cables that attach to this area of the carb.
The upper-most and easiest-to-access cable is the choke cable. You may find that there is some slack in it when your assistant pushes the choke **** in. Grab the end of the cable that's closest to the carb and push it toward the right (passengers') side of the car. This should open the choke and allow the idle to return to a normal setting of 750 rpm or thereabouts.
Wipe any dust/ dirt from this area and then spray the cable with a healthy dose of WD-40. This should solve your problem, as well as return your fuel economy to a more affordable value.
If on the other hand the cable checks out fine the problem is elsewhere. Has anybody recently adjusted your idle and/or mixture settings? If so, they may have mucked things up.
To check this, remove the large blue air filter housing on top of the carb. (The one that sez"Mazda Rotary Engine" in white print on it).
To do this you will need to undo the four clips that hold the cover onto the housing and then remove the cover.
Next, remove the nut in the center of the carb, the one that holds the blue housing onto the top of the carb. You should now be able to lift the housing up slightly, but it will still be held by several hoses (five in total) that attach to various orfices on the underside of the housing.
Disconnect all hoses from the underside of the housing. If you're not sure you can remember how they go back together simply mark each hose and attach point with a light-colored marker so that you don't mix them up or forget to reattach one of them. The housing can now be completely removed.
Now start the car and allow it to run until the temperature guage reads at its normal operating temp. Have somebody pull/push on the choke ****. As they do this, look to the rear left-hand side of the carb. You should see at least one of the three cables that attach to this area of the carb.
The upper-most and easiest-to-access cable is the choke cable. You may find that there is some slack in it when your assistant pushes the choke **** in. Grab the end of the cable that's closest to the carb and push it toward the right (passengers') side of the car. This should open the choke and allow the idle to return to a normal setting of 750 rpm or thereabouts.
Wipe any dust/ dirt from this area and then spray the cable with a healthy dose of WD-40. This should solve your problem, as well as return your fuel economy to a more affordable value.
If on the other hand the cable checks out fine the problem is elsewhere. Has anybody recently adjusted your idle and/or mixture settings? If so, they may have mucked things up.
Last edited by Aviator 902S; 12-13-05 at 09:27 PM.
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