Wodihor

Ok i'm going to get started on cleaning the rust off of the rear of the car. around the hatch, drain holes, and where the spoiler used to be.

I was wondering what the best way to go about this would be ... i have a drimmle tool and my hands. i was thinking of hitting it with a steel wire brush on the drimmle before hand sanding dow to 300 or 500 grit. then painting over with primer. should i just knock the rust off and use a filler?

I was looking at another thread ans someone memtions about fiberglass putty. would bondo be better... just looking for a reasonable way to do it. will take me a while as i work out of an apartment complex parking lot. would like to get it ready to paint by end of summer next year or before.

RotaryRocket85

you need to treat it with ospho. you can get it al local autoparts stores.

aussiesmg

iTrader: (1)

POR-15 great product, several simple steps then just fill and paint, rust wont come back if done right.

no_name

tell more about POR-15?

IanS

iTrader: (4)

The putty they were referring to, I think is commonly referred to as Bondo Glass. has fiberglass hairs in it. If the rusty areas are small and not deep, I think regular Bondo or an equivalent would do just fine. Check out Bondo Extreme or equivalent as it is creamier and though more expensive seems to make less pits - at least as far as I have noticed.

Edit: I have a catalog for POR-15 and the other POR products. Looks like a very good product. I am thinking that it has some sort of etching primer characteristics.

aussiesmg

iTrader: (1)

It is readily available on eBay, I have used it in Australia years ago, and am using it again here, great preparation product for rust affected metals, check them out on their website at
www.por15.com

GTRay

word of advice... don't do that. you're only going to create more of a headache for the person who is going to eventually spray

a dremel and wire brush won't make much of a dent on rust in those areas - especially the hatch drain area. the corners right there are an absolute pain in the *** to get right as to prevent rust from coming back. that area has a complicated series of body joints that come together and are braised together if the channel has rot then you have to remove all of the rust that you can get to and the only way i could get to all of it on mine was to hit it with a spot blaster (localized sand blaster). once i made sure that ALL of the rust was gone cleaning up the mess was the real chore. after all of the cleanup was done i had to reconstruct a portion of the channel. i had access to a fabrication shop so doing the work was a snap. i realize you don't have that luxury but it is of the utmost importance that any "cancerous" metal be cut out and replaced otherwise you'll be doing the job again in no time. once i got the new metal in and squared away there were a few spots that didn't need as drastic a solution as new metal. for those spots, mainly the right rear corner of the hatch channel where the body panels are all braised together, i used a small piece of fiberglass mat and glassed it from both sides - bottom side first. i wanted to make sure i had resin come through the pinholes. once the glass work was done i sanded it and contoured it as best i could to match the rest of the channel. from that point i used a dab of bondo to clean the transition from glass to metal.

if you plan on doing this anyways and you do manage to get the rust cleaned up i would first use a fiberglass patch over any pinholes you might have. you want the fiberglass to be the waterproofer. once the fiberglass is in place you need to do some basic contouring of the glass with ~200 grit. just work on getting the rough shape. after sanding with 200 you can then lay down you bondo. remember, bondo isn't there to seal the deal, it's there to smooth out your transitions. don't EVER rely on bondo to seal metal. after the bondo is down you'll have to shape it too. go 200, 400, 600, and then 1000. the 1000 will give you a GREAT surface for your primer.

finally if you do primer at this stage you need to be aware you that you also need to put some kind of paint over the primer. otherwise the primer and the bondo will absord water like a sponge and ruin all of your hard work.

Ray

Wodihor

Por -15 sounds like really good stuff... but reading makes me think that i may not be ready to under go the project that soon... but will give them a call and see what they say.

It all seems solid but really don't know for sure... i don't want to poke to much as i don't want it raining in to the body... but don't guess that matter much sence there are hole in the body where someone took the spoiler off. damn i'm in for alot of work.

Wodihor

ok just walked out side and took another look... the channel for the hatch is not bad... weathered a good bit but not bad.. the drain holes are stopped up it seems but the main part of the rust is where the spoiler used to be and is more on the body then in the channel it self.

called the por 15 guy and he said to just knock it off a bit and then paint over it and sand down. that seems simple emough.. now is it really that simple?

kenn_chan

POR-15 work great.....if you get all of the rust out.....

other wise you are simply painting over rust, any mumbo jumbo about neutralizing rust is BS,

POR-15 works OK when you prep the material and have minor (very minor) pitting. the phosporic acid in its prep solution is the key (its simple naval jelly) it will eat away the MINOR rust, leaving clean metal. but you can do the same thing with a bottle of naval jelly, and some asphalt style undercoating at a fraction of the cost.

spot sandblasting is the best option for tight confined areas, just get a good vacume cleaner ready

kenn