cpt_gloval

iTrader: (1)

Finished my ATF treatment yesterday. Runs quite nice. Still idles this side of rough, tho, and my alt belt is really getting loose. i should tighten it...any pointers?

I also changed the oil, plugs, and plug wires. Up next are the cap, rotor, and ignition coils. Suggestions on aftermarket replacements? I'm thinking about getting the upograded ones from VB, but i've heard of this MSD thing. Someone tell me more.

Here are pics of my smoke show:

http://www.doomguy.net/images/therex/atf1.jpg
http://www.doomguy.net/images/therex/atf2.jpg
http://www.doomguy.net/images/therex/atf3.jpg
http://www.doomguy.net/images/therex/atf4.jpg
http://www.doomguy.net/images/therex/atf5.jpg
http://www.doomguy.net/images/therex/atf6.jpg

Denny

Here's some advice, Tenderfoot...

All you other Cowboys quit yawning, and get back to work. I know you all have heard it before....

First, get yourself a gallon of MMO, Marvel Mystery Oil. It's Kick-a-poo Joy Juice for rotaries. With each oil change drop in a half to 3/4 of a quart into the sump. Add another half quart to the fuel tank. Hear me now, and believe me later, your 7 will love you for this liquid treat. Every 6000, squirt some into your spark plug holes instead of ATF. Cleans the insides effectively, it's made to be burned unlike ATF.

Plug wires should be NGK. If you wanna fool around some night, and make up your own from some aftermarket V8 set, fine, but your won't see any performance difference. Stick with NGK for wires and plugs. Watch your aftermarket caps and rotors. Some are fine, but I've seen some others that are a step down. One clue to look for is on the distributor cap if the screw-down bolts are screwdriver driven, not hex-head, they're real cheapies. Get the hex-head if you can.

Inside the snorkel of your air-cleaner is a heat responsive butterfly flap. Take that sucker outta there so you get fresh air straight thru to the filter....Oh, airfilter, go K&N. Yeah, I know it's expensive, but well worth it, pardner.
Drain and refill your trans and diff with synthetic gear oil.

Future upgrades you should consider are polyurethane bushings, header, and brand-name shocks and struts.
Oh, one last thing...Don't know how many miles on your hoss, but it's pretty likely that you could use a replacement of your idler arm bushings. They're mounted on the frame next to the header so they get hot and cold and wear away after time. They're cheap and easy to replace, and will improve your steering response.

Denny, from the 'ol corncrib....

Pittdp

your missing a lug stud.

treceb

cpt_global, I'm glad to hear it when people get their 7 running, specially first gens. Keep up the good work.

What about the oxygen sensor? I've heard it makes a difference. I'll let you know by the end of this week, since I bought mines yesterday. Are Bosch's any good, the local autoshop did not have the replacement, so I bought a universal. Are they the same, should I have bought the replacement??
The guy said it was the same except for the plug. I hope they are right.

I guess that MMO really works. Denny, should I put some in the gas at every fill up or just with the oil change. I got an 85 SE, should I spend money on additives like injector cleaners and such.

cpt_gloval

iTrader: (1)

Just to clarify, my baby has been runnin'. I just wanted to give her some lovin', thus the ATF (i actually did use MMO).

I have the K&N.

Thanks for the butterfly flap tip.

Does my car even have an O2 sensor? I thought only FI cars had 'em.

I'm looking into better ignition coils from VB (vic. british) since mine are pretty corroded. Any suggestions as to what brand to get (from VB or not)?

also, my alt belt is REALLY loose. i know that having the air pump belt removed will allow it to work it's way loose over time. i just want to know the best way to tighten 'er up.

oh, and my car has about 172k miles on it w/ 50k on a stock rebuilt engine.

-brad

cpt_gloval

iTrader: (1)

i'm actually missing four. :/

i evened it out to one per wheel

CraigG

Dude, you are making a big, huge and catastrophic mistake by only running 3 lugs per wheel. The only place you should drive from now on is to get more so you have a complete set... You're stressing the remaining lugs wayyy to much and asking for you're wheel to fly off on the highway. Running 4 on a 5-lug pattern isnt as bad, but when you do that to a 4 lug pattern its horrible... Trust me, do that NOW... hate to seem like an *** about it but it is a big deal.

cpt_gloval

iTrader: (1)

i'm just missing the lug caps. the lugs are ugly and black. the caps are pretty and chrome.

you can be sure i'd never drive a 4-lug wheel with a missing lug.

cpt_gloval

iTrader: (1)

About that butterfly flap in the air cleaner...what is it's intended purpose? Emissions?

Serzy

The flap makes the car at cold startup take air from around the exhaust manifold which is warmer to make for easier starting. or something like that

Denny

Mr. Gloval,

Half a quart to 3/4 quart in the fuel tank each oil change is plenty. I run MMO into the plug holes every other oil change, or 6000 miles, but I'm a of an MMO fanatic as the Forum 7-boys will attest. But no, you don't need it all the time.

The flap in the filter is closed when the engine is cold. Once started the filter gets its air from a corragated tube running from the bottom of the filter to the exhaust manifold, thus getting warm air from around the header. As the engine warms, the heat senitive spring attatched to the flap slowly opens the flap to allow cold air in thru the snorkel.

Advice: Get a Haynes RX-7 79-85 manual. You can get them from about any bookstore or auto supply house, or even off the net.

Best to yuh, Buckaroo...
Denny, from the abandoned corncrib...

treceb

Yeah, i think you are correct only fi cars get o2 sensors. thats what happens when you try to be the oddball of the 1st gen section and buy one thats fuel injected.

And that sucks too cause i have a hard time trying to figure what from the 1st gen section applies to me and what from the 2nd gen section doesnt.