Binehex414

I have an 85 RX-7 GSL
The engine will not start, it turns over and i can hear it want to start. I can push start the car and it idle's high and drives rough. Maybe my timing is off?

BadAssRX-7

more info would help, this sounds like my freinds -se.... low comprestion on both rotors. it would roll start but not stasrt with the starter

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

I bet if you put a couple teaspoons of ATF in each primary it will fire right up. Sounds like low or no compression in one rotor. Sounds like motor time

Binehex414

I dont want to have to put a new motor in her. I put ATF down one of the smaller carbs. Do I need to do both carbs, would this change anything.
One day I was just driving it and I stalled it out, after that she would never start. I just found out that before I bought they original owner had some no knowledge punk try and mess with the timing becuase it was a little high. Ever since it hasn't run right.

Any other info you guys can give me will be great!

Pele

iTrader: (28)

A better approach would be to do the following:

1.) Remove spark plugs; Disconnect low voltage side of ignition coils.

2.) Use a turkey baster to shoot Fluid of choice (ATF or MMO) into spark plug holes (Upper or lower, it doesn't matter, whichever is easiest for you to get at.)

3.) Turn the engine ONE revolution. The starter turns too fast, so I suggest you use a ratchet on the pulley or push it while in gear. You will spray the fluid all over the engine bay if you crank too fast.

4.) Repeat steps 2 and 3 two more times for a total of three revolutions and three shots of fluid. This gets fluid on each side of the rotor.

5.) Repeat the whole proceedure for the other rotor.

6.) Replace the plugs and let it stew for AT LEAST 24 Hours. Longer is better. The difference between 24 and 72 hours is noticalbe, but at minimum, 24 hours. THis allows the fluid to soak into carbon deposits and penetrate deep, breaking it down.

7.) Re-connnect the ignition system and start the car. (Start the car AWAY from the house, animals, people, fire department, enviornmentalists, etc. The smoke is horrendous and will mess you up severely if you breathe enough of it. ) The car may be a bit hard to start, so make sure the battery is good and charged.

8.) After the car has had a chance to warm up, go out on the open road and drive hard. Shift at redline, run full throttle for a bit. This gets the ATF and carbon out of the engine and exhaust system.

9.) Go back home and change the spark plugs as they are fouled. You may wish to change the oil as well.

10.) Enjoy your new found power if in fact your engine troubles were caused by carbon deposits and stuck apex seals.

Note: ATF was not designed to burn and therefore some people elect to use Marvel's Mystery Oil (MMO). MMO was developed as a super/turbo charger lubricant and many people, both veterans (Right Denny ) and youngins (Like me) like it.) Both have excellent carbon fighting detergent properties, although sokme say ATF has more. But MMO creates less smoke and may be better on catalytic converters. (If you have them.)

Thus concludes the ATF treatment writeup.

Good luck

Felix Wankel

Did it "ping" any before it stalled? If it did, it may have detonated and trashed an apex seal.

Binehex414

Well guys the compression is good. Its a timeing problem. So can anyone give me any information about timeing?

jimmyv13

read your Hayes manual.