GUZZLR

Does anyone have any advice/ experiencce for running in a new engine?
I just had my 12a rebuilt and extend ported....

Cheers,

Mick

1984special

I suppose it's called "breaking-in" an engine here in the U.S. of A... And no I would have no clue, except to not hit redline for the first 1000 miles? =P I know for some piston cars you take it around town varying the RPMs from idle to half? and yeah drive around for about a thousand miles. After than change your oil and I guess you're good to go. But you have a ported engine so I don't know what's up at all

GUZZLR

im gonna do 600ks under 4500 rpm and then do an oil change then im gonna do 1000ks under 6000 rpm (1000 miles so far...), oil change! then im gonna do another 1500ks of taking it to the redline occasionally.then i will do one more oil change and at this point i think the engine will be ready to take the abuse of my LEAD foot!!!!

djmickyg

You's always have to be different, dont you's

Amagi82

hey, at least we dont call everyone "mate", lol. Around here that makes you sound like you're mating with somebody or something...

just pickin on you guys

GUZZLR

G'Day Mate!

MRGSL-SE

DON'T DRIVE THE CAR OVER 50 mph before the first 3 oil changes... and don't rev over 3500 rpm(if you can resist).... that's my dad's proper breaking in procedure...

Keaponlaffen

wheel speed has nothing to do with it though, just engine speed matters. As long as you don't take it over 3500 or 4000 rpm for the first 1000k's you should be fine. After that, take it easy on her, and by 1500k you should be all good.

djmickyg

a brothers "mate" got his gemini engine rebuilt and left the workshop with a massive burnout and couldnt work out why his engine blew up a few months later..

RacerX7fb

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/ under TECH

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

What bugs me isn't the "mate"... or even "run-in".. it's heaps..

I think the translation is "loads" or "piles"... I have loads of work to do.... I have piles of texts to go through... And they all share a common root, but for some reason "heaps" drives me mad!

And yeah.. Aussies should check this out. It's a canadian company that has their own line of stores and clothing (and online they sell through Sears, another store)....

http://www.sears.ca/cgi-bin/ic_bitm....717&cid=34&mq=

The company : Roots... the logo :Beaver

So I've got a shirt with a Roots' Beaver on it (for you Americans who don't get it, in Australia, Roots is a synanom for "prostitute" and "beaver" .. well .. yeah... you can guess that one)

I plan to wear one of these on my next trip to Aussiland

Jon

WackyRotary

I usually find that 500miles of varying the rpm between idle and 4000rpm is good, oil change. Drive the next 500miles with occational reving up to 6000rpm, change oil. So at 1000miles drive it like you mean it.

I guess if you were using brand new rotor housings and new apex seals, it may be just ~500miles since the surface requires little in breaking-in since they are all in orginal spec condition.

Defprun

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

ENGINE BREAK-IN ...

crank the motor without the spark plugs until you get an oil pressure reading

start the engine and let it idle for 20 minutes or so ... change the oil

don't rev the motor under load over 4000 RPM for the first 500 miles ... change the oil

increase the RPM under load by 1000 RPM for every 100 miles after the first 500 miles ... change the oil

at this point it should be fully broken in

NOTE: it is imperative to use mineral-based oil for the break-in period - after that, if you're someone that uses synthetic, then you can use it.