How-to: Remove the moldings from your bumpers.
04-23-06, 11:40 PM
#27
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Ahh! wish I would of seen this post before you laid on the fiberglass. Filling the back with resin is the way to go for strength, but filling the front will end up with cracks in the long run because the bumper will flex and the fiberglass will not. An old body man/woman trick to filling flexible parts is expanding foam insulation:
04-24-06, 08:11 AM
#29
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Originally Posted by Kim's FB
Ahh! wish I would of seen this post before you laid on the fiberglass. Filling the back with resin is the way to go for strength, but filling the front will end up with cracks in the long run because the bumper will flex and the fiberglass will not. An old body man/woman trick to filling flexible parts is expanding foam insulation:
Last edited by $100T2; 04-24-06 at 08:23 AM.
04-24-06, 10:33 AM
#30
The foam can be used as a base to lay your glass over. Once it is set, it can be cut, shaped and sanded, depending on the size of the bubbles. Works good for filling out places and acts as a form.
When you get your cutout glassed in, scuff sand the rest of the cover with nothing finer than 80 grit, 36 would be better, then wrap the entire cover in the finish fabric. Wrap the glass around the edges too. No seams, use one big piece to cover the entire bumper cover. This will help reduce the chances of delamination and cracking.
When you get your cutout glassed in, scuff sand the rest of the cover with nothing finer than 80 grit, 36 would be better, then wrap the entire cover in the finish fabric. Wrap the glass around the edges too. No seams, use one big piece to cover the entire bumper cover. This will help reduce the chances of delamination and cracking.
05-04-06, 09:41 PM
#34
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Front Bumper
I am trying to get that same bumper cover off my FB. Did you have to remove the whole damn bumper to get it off? The front bolts are all turning on me and I am not able to get them out because the other side of the bolts are covered by that centre piece on top that goers between the headlamps? I will do the same thing you are doing if I can get it off.
05-04-06, 10:16 PM
#35
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Originally Posted by Hades12
You should be outside working on finishing up the trees and play area, Shame on you letting the kids take second seat to the 7.
05-04-06, 10:17 PM
#36
The bumper is mounted with 2 long bolts that are accessed from the bottom. The long bolts go through the bumper shock and screw into a bracket on the bumper itself. Remove the 2 bolts and the turn signal lenses, then turn them and push them through the bumper, it should come off. Then you can remove the cover.
Back bumper is the same setup, along with the lights for the license plate.
Back bumper is the same setup, along with the lights for the license plate.
04-13-07, 05:55 AM
#42
Originally Posted by lovintha7
Would it have been easier to clean the **** out of the inside of the bumper and scuff it up with 80 grit emory cloth, then lay some urethane epoxy compound to the inside of the bumper then cut/sand the mouldings off? I don't think the glass is going to stick to the urethane bumper all that well, but I'm interested in how well it does stick.
Caution: Do not use any sort of solvent other than water on the fascia before applying the urethane repair material.
I did the same thing to my front airdam, except I used fiberglass there instead.
Don't have any in-process pics, but here's the final product:
04-13-07, 08:33 PM
#44
Originally Posted by 82transam
That looks good elwood! Where did you get the urethane epoxy compound? Is that what its called? I'm interested in doing this since I removing the side moldings from my project car, just want to make sure I do it correctly...
04-14-07, 07:11 AM
#47
Hmm, and that was enough to fill that whole thing in? Just seems like you'd need to eventually get something at least 3/8" thick behind there in order to fully remove the rub strip and still have enough there for the bumper to hold its shape, maybe the tubes have more in them than i'm imagining....
