How to remove instrument cluster, ignition key cylinder, and wiper/signal, in a '79?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
How to remove instrument cluster, ignition key cylinder, and wiper/signal, in a '79?
Help!
I'm trying to remove the instrument cluster, ignition key cylinder, and the wiper/signal controls from a '79, but I'm having a hard time!
The steering wheel is off, plastic shroud around steering column is off, wiper/signal controls are loosened but wont come off until the metal 3 spoke thingy comes off.
Any ideas how to take it off?
2 bolts holding instrument cluster from underneath dash is removed (one on each side), front plastic shroud in front of cluster is off, but it still feels like something is holding it in there.
If anyone has tips or knows what I need to do to get these parts off I'd appreciate the help. I'm trying to strip the car before dumping it.
Thanks!
I'm trying to remove the instrument cluster, ignition key cylinder, and the wiper/signal controls from a '79, but I'm having a hard time!
The steering wheel is off, plastic shroud around steering column is off, wiper/signal controls are loosened but wont come off until the metal 3 spoke thingy comes off.
Any ideas how to take it off?
2 bolts holding instrument cluster from underneath dash is removed (one on each side), front plastic shroud in front of cluster is off, but it still feels like something is holding it in there.
If anyone has tips or knows what I need to do to get these parts off I'd appreciate the help. I'm trying to strip the car before dumping it.
Thanks!
#2
RX HVN
iTrader: (2)
Signal light controls: they are held on to the metal frame of the ignition at the...back? with 3 or 4 screws. This will permit the switch assy to slide forward off the column (obv, disconnect the harness...)
Cluster:
Under the shroud are two MORE screws up underneath the lip of the cluster on the front. revealed after the shroud insert has been removed...
You can then ease the cluster forward and reach behind and disconnect 2 harnesses and the speedo-cable. reach up under dash to RIGHT side of rear of cluster, feel the speedo cable mounting point. The cable attaches by a TAB on the cable end that snaps into the collar on the back of the cluster. You must feel for the tab and squeeze it into the cable and pull to release the cable from the back.
Ignition cylinder assy is attached to column with 2 break-away bolts (anti-theft presumably), so these will have to be drilled out.
Stu A
80GS
AZ
Cluster:
Under the shroud are two MORE screws up underneath the lip of the cluster on the front. revealed after the shroud insert has been removed...
You can then ease the cluster forward and reach behind and disconnect 2 harnesses and the speedo-cable. reach up under dash to RIGHT side of rear of cluster, feel the speedo cable mounting point. The cable attaches by a TAB on the cable end that snaps into the collar on the back of the cluster. You must feel for the tab and squeeze it into the cable and pull to release the cable from the back.
Ignition cylinder assy is attached to column with 2 break-away bolts (anti-theft presumably), so these will have to be drilled out.
Stu A
80GS
AZ
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
The plan was to lift the car up so the motor will clear when pulled out, but then I got to thinking...
The new plan is to cut everything in front of the motor so it slides straight out through the front (rusted car so the body is going to the junkyard).
The new plan is to cut everything in front of the motor so it slides straight out through the front (rusted car so the body is going to the junkyard).
Trending Topics
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks. What sub-harness are you referring to? I'll make sure to pull it out if I can.
Is there anything else I should pull from the car?
I've cut the front of the engine pieces and the steering pieces so it's looking good! Are there only 3 areas holding the engine/trans to the car? 2 at the engine and one at the trans?
#10
RX HVN
iTrader: (2)
It's the sub harness that runs along the L-to-R side of the dash. Radio and htr control, console switches. Plugs into the Main at the back of the cluster. May not need but easy to pull.
Eng/Tranny:
yep: front engine bracket, rear TX bracket is all to release...
Take lots of Pix so you know how to re-assemble!
Zip lock bags with a Marker are your best friends!!!!
Stu A
80GS
AZ
Eng/Tranny:
yep: front engine bracket, rear TX bracket is all to release...
Take lots of Pix so you know how to re-assemble!
Zip lock bags with a Marker are your best friends!!!!
Stu A
80GS
AZ
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
So I was about to start cutting the front engine mount frame when I noticed there are 2-17mm nuts on each side holding the engine mount frame to the body frame (hopefully I'm describing it correctly).
If I remove these 4 nuts will the engine mount frame drop, or is it welded to the body frame as well?
Aside from the transmission bracket, do I have to disconnect anything connected to the driveshaft?
Will it slide out of or disconnect from the driveshaft when the trans moves forward?
Sorry for all the questions, this is my first time doing this and want to make sure I'm doing it correctly.
Thanks for all the help/guidance so far!
If I remove these 4 nuts will the engine mount frame drop, or is it welded to the body frame as well?
Aside from the transmission bracket, do I have to disconnect anything connected to the driveshaft?
Will it slide out of or disconnect from the driveshaft when the trans moves forward?
Sorry for all the questions, this is my first time doing this and want to make sure I'm doing it correctly.
Thanks for all the help/guidance so far!
#12
Out In the Barn
iTrader: (9)
If I remove these 4 nuts will the engine mount frame drop, or is it welded to the body frame as well?
Aside from the transmission bracket, do I have to disconnect anything connected to the driveshaft?
Will it slide out of or disconnect from the driveshaft when the trans moves forward?
Aside from the transmission bracket, do I have to disconnect anything connected to the driveshaft?
Will it slide out of or disconnect from the driveshaft when the trans moves forward?
You do not need to disconnect the driveshaft from the reared but be aware that you'll get trans fluid everywhere and that stuff stinks.Always a good idea to plug it after the driveshaft is removed and before tilting the trans. Remember to remove the shifter and it's boot and the speed-o cable.
Last edited by KansasCityREPU; 07-06-19 at 09:53 AM.
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Got it out guys! Thanks for all the help! It was such a rewarding feeling when I pulled it out!
I'll try to remove the sub harness and ecu tomorrow, hopefully not much trouble to get it out, lol.
btw, was there a stronger driveshaft that was maybe made in the 80's that's NLA today? Just wondering if I should be looking for other "unique" parts on the car...
I'll try to remove the sub harness and ecu tomorrow, hopefully not much trouble to get it out, lol.
btw, was there a stronger driveshaft that was maybe made in the 80's that's NLA today? Just wondering if I should be looking for other "unique" parts on the car...
Last edited by 1BADRX7; 07-07-19 at 07:37 AM.
#14
RX HVN
iTrader: (2)
nope re drive shaft.
SAs have a fair list of "unique parts", with some over lap into early FBs. Suspension and brake components are unique, for eg.
Trim bits, most of which are Unobtainium (new). Tranny, Rad., hatch release mechanism, etc. Best bet is buying/locating a wreck for spares. Don't mean to be vague here... can get into the Weeds making a comprehensive List
Stu A
80GS
AZ
#15
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I'm actually stripping a car that the previous owner put a lot of money in to (engine and body mods) and was wondering if there were any "upgrades" that might be installed that I don't know about or should look for.
I believe you when you say you can make a comprehensive list as the differences between the SA and FB are not just visible ques. Thanks Stu and everyone for your help!
I believe you when you say you can make a comprehensive list as the differences between the SA and FB are not just visible ques. Thanks Stu and everyone for your help!
#20
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
Easiest way to tell GSL from SE...
GSL rear disks are solid while SE rear disks are vented. If stripping the car for usable parts, and you have the storage space, get everything that unbolts from it - including the bolts! Seriously, I can't tell you how handy it is to have spares for just about everything when you're troubleshooting problems, or have isolated the problem and need a replacement part. It's worth the sweat and bloody knuckles.
#21
Senior Member
Thread Starter
GSL rear disks are solid while SE rear disks are vented. If stripping the car for usable parts, and you have the storage space, get everything that unbolts from it - including the bolts! Seriously, I can't tell you how handy it is to have spares for just about everything when you're troubleshooting problems, or have isolated the problem and need a replacement part. It's worth the sweat and bloody knuckles.
#22
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Can someone tell me where the ecu is at? I've looked under the passenger floor and storage bin area and nothing.
I did a search that mentioned it's under the passenger's floor (in an '85) but I guess it's not the same for all the years?
Thanks again for the help.
I did a search that mentioned it's under the passenger's floor (in an '85) but I guess it's not the same for all the years?
Thanks again for the help.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Philip Casciola
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
11
03-27-23 08:07 PM