how much hp gain?
#1
84 SE
Thread Starter
how much hp gain?
I posted this in the Haltech forum, but probably should have posted it here. For those of you who are using a Haltech ECU here's my question: I am just about ready to order the haltech sprint RE. I have a 84 GSL-SE with an S5 intake. I will be eliminating the AFM and distributor and upgrading to the 2nd gen coils. I am wondering how much hp gains can be made just by eliminating the AFM and dizzy and with good tuning? I am staying NA for now, but will boost in the future.
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the way the S5 intake works is that you get more power over 5000rpm, if the VDI is working/open, and removing the AFM is on the order of 3%, so you may get something like 15-20hp just from the intake/afm removal, it'll all be over 5000rpm, but that's probably fine.
being able to tune the fuel/timing will give you more power in the 4000-6000range, than a stock ecu, and more power over 6500, well vs the stock FC ecu.
for ignition i would go look in the Rtek section for the S4 NA map or use the chart in the FSM for the GSL-SE and build something that mimics the distributor curve, either should give you a really solid starting point.
since you start with nothing on the haltech, it makes life much easier if you can put a stock/safe timing map in there, and then you can leave it and concentrate on tuning the fuel, and once the fuel is dialed, then come back to the timing.
being able to tune the fuel/timing will give you more power in the 4000-6000range, than a stock ecu, and more power over 6500, well vs the stock FC ecu.
for ignition i would go look in the Rtek section for the S4 NA map or use the chart in the FSM for the GSL-SE and build something that mimics the distributor curve, either should give you a really solid starting point.
since you start with nothing on the haltech, it makes life much easier if you can put a stock/safe timing map in there, and then you can leave it and concentrate on tuning the fuel, and once the fuel is dialed, then come back to the timing.
#4
84 SE
Thread Starter
the way the S5 intake works is that you get more power over 5000rpm, if the VDI is working/open, and removing the AFM is on the order of 3%, so you may get something like 15-20hp just from the intake/afm removal, it'll all be over 5000rpm, but that's probably fine.
being able to tune the fuel/timing will give you more power in the 4000-6000range, than a stock ecu, and more power over 6500, well vs the stock FC ecu.
for ignition i would go look in the Rtek section for the S4 NA map or use the chart in the FSM for the GSL-SE and build something that mimics the distributor curve, either should give you a really solid starting point.
since you start with nothing on the haltech, it makes life much easier if you can put a stock/safe timing map in there, and then you can leave it and concentrate on tuning the fuel, and once the fuel is dialed, then come back to the timing.
being able to tune the fuel/timing will give you more power in the 4000-6000range, than a stock ecu, and more power over 6500, well vs the stock FC ecu.
for ignition i would go look in the Rtek section for the S4 NA map or use the chart in the FSM for the GSL-SE and build something that mimics the distributor curve, either should give you a really solid starting point.
since you start with nothing on the haltech, it makes life much easier if you can put a stock/safe timing map in there, and then you can leave it and concentrate on tuning the fuel, and once the fuel is dialed, then come back to the timing.
Thanks. The S5 intake is already fully functional, so I won't be getting an more gains out of the VDI per se. Chris @ Ludwig Motorsports will help me to set base maps I'm sure to get it up and running. Can anyone tell me how long it takes for the average guy to do the swap and get the car up and running?
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installing the haltech is about like doing 3-4 car stereo installs back to back, so that should give you some idea. plus you have to mount the coils somewhere, and wire them up, so that is another couple of hours.
tuning depends, only doing full throttle on a dyno only takes an hour or two, its everything else that takes a really long time. it does help if you start with a decent base map, and Mr Ludwig certainly will do that, he is good with haltech and rotary
tuning depends, only doing full throttle on a dyno only takes an hour or two, its everything else that takes a really long time. it does help if you start with a decent base map, and Mr Ludwig certainly will do that, he is good with haltech and rotary
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you should also read thru the haltech manual a couple times too, not only to wire it up, but they have some tuning tips as well.
you can't just pull it out of a box and plug it in, you are far better off to do your home work before hand. i'd even go so far as to have your wiring diagram thought out before you get the thing (doesn't have to be 100% done, but if you know how the basics wire up then you don't have to figure it out later)
you can't just pull it out of a box and plug it in, you are far better off to do your home work before hand. i'd even go so far as to have your wiring diagram thought out before you get the thing (doesn't have to be 100% done, but if you know how the basics wire up then you don't have to figure it out later)
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#8
84 SE
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Not sure what you mean. Every wire is labeled for my particular application. This harness is custom made. Not much figuring out. The base maps are available to get the car running.
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#10
84 SE
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Yeah, they make it pretty easy now. Regardless, though, I think I' still looking at an entire Saturday to do the swap and get it running. Now, I just need to get the other parts I need like: CAS, TPS, Coils, etc. For a moment I was thinking that it would be better to use this money toward a rebuild and a large streetport, but I need more down time to do that :-)
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