I really want to start a project which would be created not to be daily driven, but just a car that I can take out to street races and such... I would paint each fender a diff. color and spraypaint my rims, but it would run 10s... the ultimate sleeper Anyway, the weight for an otherwise stock fb is 2300, but when stripped I think I can get it down to about 2000. so to get around 10.75 would need about 375hp or 300whp... since this would not be daily driven, i don't need to worry about the difficulty of street driving and I would just like to price it...
FB with blown engine: $350
rebuild kit: $800
intercooler: $350
piping: $50 (will be welded)
big *** turbo: $550
manifold: $300 (get someone to make this)
street port: myself
stock suspension, wheels, tires, exterior
also, selling random parts will be: $-150
a'pexi avcr: $300
===
$2550

that sounds too cheap, so what am i missing?

 

It'd be a job, that's for sure. You'll need something much bigger than a streetport. A turbo bridgeport with NOS would run 10s, I think.
So, I guess to add to the list would be: fuel pump, NOS setup, tires. I would go with a Ford 9" rear if you're going to be running that kind of power. Maybe a TII tranny conversion. Not sure about the frame, maybe reweld some of the seams. Other than that. I dunno.
Found a good article, though.
http://www.fastfoursvip.com/articles...e.aspx?view=93

 

that might not be a bad idea instead of a fb get a rx-3/4/2 etc.

 

It will be hard to get the car down to that weight from what I understand.

You are missing, at least:

Fuel pump
Injectors
Transmission(s)
Rear end(s)
Tuning(which might necessitate another motor)

It also depends how much you are going to spend on tires and wheels.

 

Stand alone Engine managment system... clutch, flywheel, Fuel lines, fuel rails, fuel pressure regs... Surge tank, suspension work, a turbo that cost more than 550 bucks all the little **** is what is going to really add up on you, and what about a stronger tranny? LSD, 3mm seals(esp if your going to be boosting that high) NOS would probably help, although i dont know if its the best idea.

Theres a lot of **** to get a car down that low, your missing a lot, i just dont know what it all is, why dont you talk to ajc13b, he had a 10.32s beast. That is if he still is on the forum.

ajc13b.com

 

but searching I found this... 338whp @10psi... so pump up the psis to about 15...
T60-1 turbo turbonetics
HKS mandriel manifold (cast iron)
Innovative wastegate 50mm (progate)
racing beat 3" exhaust system
Haltech F9 850cc primary--1600 secondary
2 bosch fuel pumps 90-110 psi constant
2 fuel pressure regulators
48mm Idf throttle body
IDF velocity stacks
sumpt fuel tank
greddy type-s bov
hks pop off valve
4x4x6 air box (plenum)
2-MSD 6a
1- fireball coil leading
1 MSD blaster coil
3 speed jacto tranny with shift kit
3200 stall converter
custom intercooler 22x12x6thick
custom piping
moderate street port
4mm apex seals
lighten rotors 7lbs.
plates shaved
rotor housing new (2)
upgrated oil pressure regulator
coil overs (frt)
tokico 5 way adjustables (frt)
tokico 3 way adjustables (rear)
racing beat lowering springs (All Around)
4 wheel disc brakes
cross drilled rotors
VDO egt
VDO water temp
VDO oil pressure
VDO Oil temp
VDO volt
2 Vdo`s fuel guages for primary/secondary
Vdo Boost 30psi








now since my preferences are cheap speed, heres what I've come up w/

*Garret T3/TO4E 60 trim W/ .82 A/R turbine: $550 from cheap turbo
*manifold: not sure what to do here... i think you can fab your own, but i'm going to leave it blank now
*Innovative progate wastegate: ???
*innovate bov: ???
*3" enigne back straight pipe: $50 in parts... welded
Haltech F9 850cc primary--1600 secondary
2 bosch fuel pumps 90-110 psi constant
2 fuel pressure regulators
48mm Idf throttle body
IDF velocity stacks
sumpt fuel tank
hks pop off valve
4x4x6 air box (plenum)
2-MSD 6a
1- fireball coil leading
1 MSD blaster coil
stock transmission
high performance clutch: $300
flywheel: $300
griffin huge intercooler with prewelded end tanks: $400
custom piping: $50 parts
large street port: free
4mm apex seals
lighten rotors 7lbs.
plates shaved
rotor housing new (2)
upgrated oil pressure regulator
stock suspension
4 wheel disc brakes
cross drilled rotors
VDO egt, water temp, oil pressure, Oil temp, volt, 2 Vdo`s fuel guages for primary/secondary, Vdo Boost 30psi: $250 for all

man everything is adding up! but i still think it can be done for under 4k... what does everyone think?

 

remember cheapness is the key! so i would possiby get weldracing wheels like 15x10 and 15x12 for under 1k and get drag tires... anyway, if possible i would also try to get as many parts as possible used to keep the costs down... my entire goal is to make money off this car so to keep costs down and make other people pay up when they lose to a junky looking fb with diff. color fenders etc.

 

A 10 sec. FB will cost over 10k. There are many variables involved with such a project. Do you have a garage at your disposal with welder, lift or jacks, torch, air? Can you fabricate? Do you have a local EFI tuner near you? Do you understand important factors in building such a high output engine: detonation, turbo matching, trim, specific engine internals.

I'm not trying to discourage you, and I think it would be a very cool project. But, there is a bit of money and even more time involved. Also, when your pushing big power, things breaks quite often...a TII tranny would probably work temporarily, but hard launches will destroy it quickly.

For the wheels, I would go to www.diamondracingwheels.com, they are cheap and good quality.

Good luck and let us know how things go.

 

I don't think that a 10 sec FB would cost $10k. It should be pretty do-able with $5k-6k if you're just worried about speed and nothing else. All you'd have to do is ditch the driveline.

 

If you want a 10 second RX7 cheap, it's not going to be rotor-powered, period. Properly building a rotary to take that kind of abuse is going to put a HUGE dent in your budget. You have no idea what you are stepping into, according to the super-simplistic "budgets" you have laid out.

 

Especially when your talking big turbos. You can blow several motors just tunning it.
Even if you can build a car to run 10's for $5-6 , its gonna cost a bunch to keep moving.

 

If you want to run 10's in an FB for 5-6k, ditch the rotary engines completely and go with a V8.

There, I said it.

 

and each motor you blow will probably *** up the turbine wheel. New wheels ain't cheap.

PS: a T3/T4 hybrid is too small.

 

that FD isnt fast enough to make money for you? Take that 6-8 k and make that thing a screamer man!

 

oh, and please dont buy an FB just to basterdize it... i can see someone blowing an engine and having access to a v8, but why buy one strictly to put a v8 in it... and paint it different colors, and race rice-boys.

Actually, come to think of it, this is kind of insulting... Everyone here loves their cars. We love how they look, how they drive, how they feel.

We want them faster, we want them better...

We do not however want them bought and purposly made ugly, nor do we want them bought so you think honda boys will throw down slips with you.

These cars need love, they are all almost 20 years old... And many have serious problems... rust for example. It wont be easy to make one fast, it takes time and patience (I know, and so do the other turbo FB guys).

Why dont u buy an FC and leave us alone...

To all the 1st gen guys... Its about time we start reclaiming our forum, there has been so much crap on this forum latley, and we are loosing long time members... we need to fix this!

 

Weight reduction is the key to uber fast 1/4 mile times for cheap. Get that SOB down to 1700lbs with you in it!

 

Yea.. get rid of the starter first off! those things are heavy and unescery as long as you dont mind rigging up the pullstart from a lawn mower Also maybye I missed it but I have not seen mention of what type of engine well excpet for the V8... What type of engine were you thinkign of using? You said finding and FB wiht a blown engine in your price list thing. So either a 12a or a 13b 6 port? IMO your best bet would be to go wiht a 13b 4 port engine. I think in the long run it woudl be more reliable and cheaper not by a whoel lot but for the most part. If you want to go carb and 12a then wihtout a doubt you shoudl talk wiht 680 he can help you out for sure

 

I missed the aftermath of that. Raptor, did you ever get it to start with the pull-starter?

 

haha, nope, it never started, couldnt get enough RPM going for it to turn over, lol

 

In order to achieve 10-10.5 second runs you are looking at 350-400rwhp with 20psi plus from the turbo. There are not many drivers who can well handle this amount of power. they usually start with a 14 second car and learn their skills the hard way.

If you are a topflight mechanic and do all the work yourself then an initial budget would be in the order of $8000 and a running budget of $500 per 1/4 mile drag. Yes you could build cheaper but expect a very very limited engine life. A rebuild a month would keep you off the street! The old formula was $1 cheaper in the build costs $10 when the engine breaks!.

As for becoming a hustler, after the first mega run the news would get out and the competition vanish. After 40 years around the race tracks I have never known anyone to make a profit except the organizers!

 

where's ajc13b when you need him. All we have to do is ask him how much he spent b4 he sold it.


There's a 8sec Roatary powered Toyota here in Miami that just made it's 99th run on the same block. Microtech ECU

I think it's all in the tunning

 

Judge ito could build a big bridge port and run a big shot of nos. That would be the cheapest way to get into the 10s. that way your not worying about turbo and all that crap and you could probably save a lot of money and run a carb. The judge has a customers car running into the 8's right now. and a bridge port engine can be built for around 2500 or so, then a 1000 for the shot, and 700 for a carb, 300 for the car, 300 for the fuel system. 3 coil set up is cheap and works, just buy 5 transmissions, and ghetto swap in a ford 9 inch. I think you could do it for around 5-6k, and it would be fast all motor and really fast when you hit the button, plus the all motor is much more reliable, simple, and sounds cool.

CJG

 

anyone mention a spoiler?

 

I have less than $2000 in mine and it should go tens Went 121mph in the 1/4 on crappy street tires. And that is with a driver inculded weight of 2700#. (full interior, roll bar, 8.8" ford rearend and my heavy 220# ***)

Later
Randy

 

Eville140,

What is your set up? Any pics?