how many times do u see this engine for sale?
07-29-04, 11:13 PM
#1
nother rican witha rotary
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07-30-04, 10:47 AM
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3g's for that motor is not worth it at all. Think about it theres no way to tell if it even works granted it probably does but will need at least $800 in work. If your looking to get a 12at they got some at rotaryshack like said about...they come guarnteed to work!!
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07-30-04, 10:51 AM
#8
trainwreck
why wouldnt the engine work? If you think the 12at would work, or any of their motors for that fact, why wouldnt the 3 rotor, also, what would the 800 dollars be spent in? I know you woul dhave to move some stuff, but then its just hooking up radiator, and custom exhaust, wich most of us can make ourselves.
07-30-04, 04:02 PM
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Well maybe not quite $800 but lets say you pop the engine in and crank her over. Chances are you would smoke for a bit and that could either be bad carbon deposits. So it starts and stays running. And you shut her down and get out to take a look and you see a nice leak out of one of your housings...All I'm saying is buying a complete engine off ebay is a hit and miss. Sometimes you have a kicking engine others you need to replace every seal and gasket on the thing.
07-30-04, 05:42 PM
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thafox did I see in Oswego going on to 34 about 3 or 4 weeks ago? The car looks familiar.. First gens are rare in Chicagoland!!
Last edited by Mezzano; 07-30-04 at 05:45 PM.
07-30-04, 10:16 PM
#12
trainwreck
yea, the 3 rotor isnt off ebay, its from that site posted above. as for getting it running cost i was figuring more han 3 grand lol. You would need a new ECU, and a good one at that. That there is gonna run at 1 to 2 grand. Followed by a great radiator, and alot of custom work. I bet 6 grand to drop taht thing in and get it running good
07-30-04, 10:34 PM
#13
nother rican witha rotary
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Originally Posted by Mezzano
thafox did I see in Oswego going on to 34 about 3 or 4 weeks ago? The car looks familiar.. First gens are rare in Chicagoland!!
07-31-04, 11:28 AM
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would you really need a new ECU fro a 3 rotor? coldnt you just carb it up...all you would need is a custom manifold...which wouldnt be that hard to fab, and you would need to make space in the bay...i dont think 12a's require a compuuter...i have never seen one...
07-31-04, 12:51 PM
#16
lief, I've been through the "what if" thing with my 20B. At first I wanted to get an Atkins supercharger manifold and just slap a carb on it with a piece of aluminum sandwiched between. That obviously wouldn't flow very well (they don't sell them anymore due to some unpleasentness). Then I tried to mod the stock manifold for a carb in a couple of ways. That didn't work out either. Then, just recently, I tried to fab a manifold out of pipes and stuff. Well, let's just say that even if I'm able to succesfully patch all the leaks, it's still not going to flow very well (flux core welder, and very little welding experience).
I've decided to take the EFI plunge as cheaply as I can. I'm learning about the MegaSquirt these days. I think I can get it for only $140 (you build it yourself) and something called the Stimulator (ooh, kinky!) for $40 (it mimics engine sensor inputs to test if the ECU is functioning properly). The only other thing I needed to buy was a secondary fuel rail since mine was damaged in shipping. The EFI fuel pump arrived yesterday and the rail should be here next week. All that's left are the MegaSquirt and stimulator, which I currently can't afford due to spending too much on the materials to fabricate the manifold.
If I would have known how cheap and uh 'easy' it was to go EFI, I would have started on it months ago. If you get a 20B, it should come with the manifolding etc so all you'd need are a fuel pump and ECU. My fuel pump is a Walbro 255LPH (can be found on eBay for a hundred or less). This means it may only cost a couple hundred instead of several thousand like all the FC and FD installs usually are. OF course it depends on the power you want out of the engine and any upgraded you do to the car, such as brakes etc.
By the way, the stock twins (twin turbos) are a joke in stock form. RETed dynoed an NA 20B in an FC and was like 5HP shy of a stock JC Cosmo. Sure you can spend the money to upgrade them, but it's futile considering cost compared to the large single turbos everybody seems to be getting. As for me, I'm NA because my engine is from the early, pre-letter series and has somewhat weaker internals. It went into a small car (similar weight to a 1st gen), so I'm ok with it. It should last a long time in NA form.
Anyway, that's my opinion. You have to realize it came from a guy who built his own 20B direct fire dizzy mod out of a 12A distributor. I also built my own compact header. You have to be willing to fabricate a lot of things to keep costs down, if money is an object to you (you have a 1st gen, so I'm sure it is).
I've decided to take the EFI plunge as cheaply as I can. I'm learning about the MegaSquirt these days. I think I can get it for only $140 (you build it yourself) and something called the Stimulator (ooh, kinky!) for $40 (it mimics engine sensor inputs to test if the ECU is functioning properly). The only other thing I needed to buy was a secondary fuel rail since mine was damaged in shipping. The EFI fuel pump arrived yesterday and the rail should be here next week. All that's left are the MegaSquirt and stimulator, which I currently can't afford due to spending too much on the materials to fabricate the manifold.
If I would have known how cheap and uh 'easy' it was to go EFI, I would have started on it months ago. If you get a 20B, it should come with the manifolding etc so all you'd need are a fuel pump and ECU. My fuel pump is a Walbro 255LPH (can be found on eBay for a hundred or less). This means it may only cost a couple hundred instead of several thousand like all the FC and FD installs usually are. OF course it depends on the power you want out of the engine and any upgraded you do to the car, such as brakes etc.
By the way, the stock twins (twin turbos) are a joke in stock form. RETed dynoed an NA 20B in an FC and was like 5HP shy of a stock JC Cosmo. Sure you can spend the money to upgrade them, but it's futile considering cost compared to the large single turbos everybody seems to be getting. As for me, I'm NA because my engine is from the early, pre-letter series and has somewhat weaker internals. It went into a small car (similar weight to a 1st gen), so I'm ok with it. It should last a long time in NA form.
Anyway, that's my opinion. You have to realize it came from a guy who built his own 20B direct fire dizzy mod out of a 12A distributor. I also built my own compact header. You have to be willing to fabricate a lot of things to keep costs down, if money is an object to you (you have a 1st gen, so I'm sure it is).
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