What do you guys think about this oil? I'm thinking about using it after i get my engine rebuilt. For the people who use it, do you think its a great product? Thanks

 

I do, good stuff.

 

I've had RP in my engine and tranny for over a year now, can't say enough good things for this product

 

They have Diff fluid too right?

 

^^^I searched their site and i didn't see it. I could be wrong tho^^^

 

yup yup, diff fluid, the works

 

nice, well then monday hopefully I'll be running strait RP fluids.

 

Do your break in on conventional motor oil and then switch to synthetic. Conventional oil lets everything seat well, break in on synthetic will take much longer and surfaces may never seat well.

 

is that true?

 

Anyone else?

 

It is true, even Royal Purple itself does not suggest that you use its product in an engine until it has been broken in.

Straight from RP's site

Can I put Royal Purple® into my brand new car?

Yes. Royal Purple® currently offers many viscosity grades of API Licensed Motor Oils. (See the Royal Purple® Motor Oil Product Page or visit the API Engine Oil Licensing and Certification Website for more information). To allow for proper break in of the engine, Royal Purple® recommends waiting until the manufacturer's first scheduled oil change or a minimum of 2,000 miles in new gasoline engines. Allow 8,000 to 10,000 miles before using Royal Purple® in diesel engines.

There is even a section just for Rotary
http://royalpurple.com/techa/faqsa.html#re0

 

I've used it for some time now and it works very well. I bought my 7 with new tranny and diff fluid in it but RP fluid will go in when they need changed

 

does the rp burn off as well as conventional oil does... i mean i assume that you are still on the omp and not premixing???

 

Every Rotary Engine Builder states to Break in your Motor with Dino Oil @ Min of 2000 Before running Syn ie. RP-Redline-Mobile One.
You will have to either Block Off the OMP and add 2cycle Oil to your Gas or Convert your existing Oil Pump to be able to use a Resivior to hold 2cycle Oil.
If you go the Block Off way, add 1oz of 2cycle Oil Per Gallon of Gas before adding the Gas.
Makes it Mix up Better.
Sorry about the Spelling=alittle hung over this Sunday Morning!!!!
There are many write ups here on this Subject.
Search=Pre Mix.
sgieldon
steve

 

You always break in the motor with conventional dino oil.

I use RP exclusively in my REPU now. It immediately lowered oil temps by 10*F. Less friction boys. Lasts as long as Mobil1. Don't forget to change oil filter and top off every 3000miles.

Burns well, takes the heat of auto-x fine. Love it.

Also use it in trans and diff.

 

While Steve I agree with the break in using dino oil is a must, there is no reason to disable the OMP when you switch to synthetic. The premium synthetic oil's burn just fine. That said, premix is good with the OMP working or not.

Paul

 

Thanks for the replys guys. I'll research some more and if theres that uses rp let me know your opinion on it

 

Damm i was one of those guys who always thought that is very bad to put synthetic in a rotory!! i might just start to use some synthetic.

 

Yup, rp oil is actually better by the research iv'e done. I think i'll start using it after i break in my rebuilt engine in the future.

 

Hey guys/gals, what oil should i use for breaking in my rebuilt engine?? Thanks for all the info you guys provided.

 

Castrol GTX 10/30. Change @ 1000miles. Change again after another 2000miles. Then synthetic.

 

Some people said that you're supposed to use dino oil for breaking in your oil. Should i use this oil? Any other suggestions??

 

Blake;
Since you and Rob built my Engine! (Care to Chime in on this Subject?
sgieldon
steve

 

I do! I do! Love the stuff. Much better than Mobil 1

 

Sure. We love synthetics. I've used Royal Purple products since 1999 with great success. RP sponsored my GRM race cars in 2001, 2002, 2003. David Canitz of Royal Purple is a good friend and he even visited our shop a couple weeks ago. We hang out with him at SEMA and Sevenstock. He owns an FD and has raced rotary engines in GT3 for many years. He knows synthetics and he knows rotaries...what could be better?!

Rob, being a creature of habit, still runs Mobil 1. I think it's been 15+ years now.

As for break-in, we recommend you run mineral oil for at least 3,000 miles. Once you switch to synthetics the break-in stops, so if your oil control rings are not broken-in yet you will always have relatively high oil consumption.

Synthetics are not always the economical choice and the benefits are minimal on older engines. For turbo engines, which have a relatively high degree of combustion gas blow-by, you need to continue changing oil at frequent intervals. Have the oil tested for fuel dilution to see how often. Non-turbo engines in prime condition can extend oil changes to 6 months or even a year, so long as you continue to change the filter every 3K miles. Again, it's a smart idea to test the oil for fuel to see if this interval is good for you.

Synthetics do burn. With the way normal enthusiasts drive, we have seen less build-up than mineral oil. This may not be the case if you just tool around at low RPMs all the time, but those people generally don't spend the money on synthetic oil in the first place. Regardless of the oil, be it mineral or synthetic, it is always best to drive with enthusiasm (hit redline occationally) to minimize carbon build-up. This is not to say you should "drive it like you stole it", however. Cruising at high RPMs is abusive, causing excessive wear and tear needlessly. Visit the readline; don't live there.