on your first gen? My alternator is dying I think(pretty dang sure). So, i'm thinking of doing the 2nd gen alternator switch. How many of you think it was worth it? Does it help with the lighting a lot better and help keep the volts up when the lights are on, etc? Just wondering if you think I should do it? Basically does eveything work better?

 

I have a 100 amp FD alternator I got from Silverrotor a while back. Awesome unit, easy installation, and it made a huge difference. I'd recommend it! I dunno if he is still offering them though.

 

Ok, the price is the issue though. I want to save up as much money as possible for when my rebuild comes and then get some other mods. I found one of silverrotors alts in the 2nd gen for sle section for 200 bucks, so I don't think that's going to happen.

 

I have the S4 alt, it's plug and play and one of the simplest mods one can do. 70 amps is more than enough for me, but then I have no stereo system at all either.

 

Im running a 2nd gen alternator, and so far it works great, stock on our cars i believe is 50amps, the 2nd gen is 70. installs the same as the 1st gen, you dont have to re-wire anything.Unless your gonna run a big *** stereo system the 2nd gen should work fine. My lights dont flicker when i turn on my blinkers anymore,battery is always fully charged.Good luck man.

 

Alright, ya, i'll go with the 2nd gen alternator. I want the s4 though because like trochoid said, you just plug it in. I found one for $30 dollars with low miles. Also another one, pretty new, $45 dollars. The more exspensive one is cleaner, so i want it, is that a good price? I think it's great. I'll wait till I get the alternator test though. I just have the stock stereo with an ipod adapter, everything stock, so nothing big. Thanks guys, i'll let you know what happens.

 

I had mine rebuilt and upgraded to put out 120amps. Nice upgrade cost me $125 plus I bought the dual pulley from racing beat. Worked great on my 80.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...2nd+alternator

bam, kick it up a notch

 

I too have one work great .. you can see the voltage staying higher too at night when you have all lights on and and full blast heater. On mine it stays around 13 volts with all the above on which is quite a bit difference from the around 11 I used to get with the old alt.

 

Ya, with everything on at night my stock alternator stays at about 11.

 

Voltmeter readings should be above 13 volts all the time, no matter what is using juice. 11 volts means it's drawing power fom a low battery. Even running off the battery alone, the reading should be a bit over 12v. Time to check the charging system and cables.

 

I have a brand new battery in though. Now its around about 12 or a little higher most of the time

 

Won't be new for long if it keeps draining. Check your system.

 

Right now, I have the cables off, always when the car isn't running of course. That's why i'm getting the alternator tested tomorrow. I'm pretty sure the cables were recently replaced by the last owner.

 

I recently made the switch to the FD alt. It made no difference in the car. You know why? Cause the alt wasn't my problem. It's obviously in the wireing some where. ime to buy and run all new wireing. I suggest doing that first then upgarding the alt. Cause if it's the wireing then you'll save some money on not getting an alt. But, if its the wireing and you get an alt like I did you'll wish you just did the wireing first off.

 

Well, where do I get all the wiring? What are you going to buy? Let me know please. First i'll go get the alternator tested.

 

your best bet is to go to a stereo shop and but some. you'll spend more, but it'll be worth it. Or you can go to your local shucks/checker/kargen. the ones to replace are your battery power and ground. the battert to fuseable link and get some extra ground and ground your alt caseing to the block then to the frame.

 

I remember reading that you only need to upgrade your alt if your going to be using alot of the electronics. Especially if your going to have a 'system' in your ride.

I had 2 amps, a 1 farad cap, 2 12's, 2 6x9s, clarion headunit, 6.5 in the rear, 4" in the fronts.

When I ran on the highway everything was cool,, but when I hit the brakes.. lights would dim really bad. I had a 13b engine that had a good alt on it. Appreantly the alt was from an s5. No more lights dimming,, allthough the has since been striped.

g/l with your ungrade

 

I run and 100amp FD alternator. I have a **** load of electronics and it holds up real nice. I upgraded all the wiring associated with the alternator and the all the grounds. At the same time I ran all new wires direct from my secound gen fuse box to the headlights and put new relays on them (thats what made a real difference in the headlights!)

Oh, even at high volumes and every accesory under the sun on, my alt still puts out 13.5 volts!

 

Wow, thats pretty good^. I'm not going to ahve anything special. It's just the stock radio system with an ipod adapter.

 

I have a FD alternator installed. For info PM me

 

I went with the TII alt when I upgraded my ignition to 2GDFIS. Then I went with a Tauras e-fan. I changed the alt before I did these changes. I didn't think the stock alt could have handled the extra sap on the system. Needless to say, the volts stay up about 13 with the car idleling, AC on, lights on and e-fan running. Good upgrade in my opinion.

 

I was going to mention that, if i remember correctly our systems are supposed to charge around 14.7amps. My car runs 14-15 with a 600 amp mini battery, and 13-14 with all my lights and stuff on. I dont have a stereo tho.

 

volts, not amps on the gauge.

 

I'll talk to you at the meet tonight.