I went ahead and bought the red 1983 RX7. 86,000, no rust. The engine has a new carb, as well as a few other things. How long will my car last, and how reliable will it be? Because its going to be my daily driver. I plan to change oil every 3000, and do whatever I need to keep it going.


Thanks,
Matt

 

mine blew up at 184 k so take good care and you can get an easy 100k

dan

 

i've heard of 12As lasting upwards of 200k mi.

mine was replaced at 120k, i bought it at 160k, and i'm up to 176k.

 

Pulled a 12A a few weeks ago, still running with 210k ish on it, going 13B
change the oil, and watch the temps, and it will last and long, long, long, long time

 

my 13b lasted until 220k and that was pushing it hard all the time, The pevious owner did auto X with it also

 

My 12A has 211K on it and runs great. No complaints. Just don't let her overheat and she will run a long time - compared to reciprocating motors, there is very little to go bad. Change the oil regularly and make sure the oil cooler stays clear and not gunked up.

 

As all the 1st gen Cowboys know, I'm a big advocate of MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) Hear me now, and believe me later (Large Arnie says) Add at least a half quart to your oil sump each oil change, and another 1/2 quart to your fuel tank. MMO is honey sauce to Rotaries. Every so often, pull your plugs, pipe in some MMO into the plug holes, and start 'er up. She'll smoke a bit, but that's okay, soon the smoke will cease. Take 'er out for a little run....Purpose? You're cleaning off the walls of your rotor housings and the rotors themselves. Keep everything inside nice and clean.

Watch your temp guage...Never overheat your motor, and watch your oil level. All rotaries are designed to burn a bit of oil, hence you shouldn't use synthetic, and it's a good habit to routinely check the level.

What I'm most concerned about is that being this is your daily driver and you live in Minn. you're going to be introducing your little hoss to alot of corrosive salt and slush. Wash your undercarriage weekly. Take 'er to a "do-it-yourself" wash, and wave that wand underneath until there's no more dirty water. Come warm weather put 'er up in the air and go over the undercarriage inch by inch. Anywhere that shows the beginnings of rust or missing undercoat take care of it.

Remember, what you have is a Sports Car, so it's going to take a bit more looking after than

 

Sorry, got interupted....More care than a Mustang or Camero. You've got a unique car, and that makes you a unique person...You're gonna get a lot of comments, good and bad, don't get excited....Simply smile and nod sagely....Afterall, they wouldn't comment if they weren't wishing it was theirs....

A tip of the 'ol Stetson,
Denny, from the 'ol corncrib....

 

Thank you for all your help. Luckly, the winter here has been extremely mild. In fact there is hardly any snow and the roads are dry. Its even been 40 - 45 here recently... Even though.. I always take my cars to a do-it-yourself carwash and go over every bit of it. I'm going to take care of this and make it last. I'll also do the MMO every oil change (I use it in my car now, and i love it).



Thanks,
Matt

 

LOL, yeah take care of the body. My 7 has rust like it's a fashion statement. The previous owner didn't take too much care of it. SO, I will. It's a bitch to try and get rid of rust, it spreads like cancer.

 

my 82 had 206k on it and purred like a kitty, yanked and droped in a ported motor . have sence put the ported motoer in the 83 limited edition.

 

I got 184K outa mine, but the oil seals starting letting go around 180K. General maintence is key. Don't rev to impress, keep it under 8K. Hell 7500 and up on a stock port is completely useless anyways. Never let it overheat. If you get 2/3 up on the temp gauge, just find a place and stop your engine. The 50 dollar tow and the 30 dollar thermostat is far cheaper than a 2k engine.

Just my 2¢...

 

I got 1200miles with my 12a bridgeport engine. This is not exactly true though really. I was running and making power, but leaking coolant into the front rotor housing chamber. The thermostat screwed me over and I couldn't stop quickly enough and the pressure built up too high and the inner rotorhousing o-ring bursted near the spark plug area and cracked the housing and caused a large coolant problem while running. I kinda suspect that the rotor housings I used were slightly warped from a mild overheating from whom I bought them. Probably the warpage was greatest near the spark plug area due to the heat from combustion in that area. The fix isn't so simple, took it out, replace a damn rotor housing and port match it, new set of inner o-rings since they can't be reused and outer ones as well, tension bolt rings Cost: $120+my many hours of damn labor. On the bright side, I found out carbon seals look like new, which they should after 1200miles. Fortunately I had a spare rotor housing and lots of free time, but little money damn it!