I installed my RB rear springs and Tokico Illuminas one day last week (thursday i think) and the car didnt sit any lower... higher or the same if anything.

now i know it takes springs a little time to settle, but how long, cause it still looks goofy sitting high up like that.

hopefully saturday i can get my coilovers installed (i was a dumbass and left the big nuts that hold the shock cartridge into the strut tube in my dad's truck the day before he left for a week... that sucked.

 

well it took the stock springs 23 years to drop 1"

 

funny, but not what i was looking for

 

I have a feeling that what you see is what you get. I installed Eibach's and they settled within a few miles.

--Bob

 

if that's the case, i'm gonna be really pissed off.... really pissed off.

i see all these other peoples cars that have perfect stances, with RB rear springs, and my car sits nothing like that.

 

show us pics

 

tomorrow, when it's light out.

 

Take out the rubber pearch above the springs, this will drop it an inch.

 

Take out the rubber pearch above the springs, this will drop it an inch.

 

Our cars are so old that taking out the stock springs and replacing them with lowering springs only raises the hight of the car. Mine went up an inch in the back.

 

the springs will settle, it will take a couple of months , dont worry! dont take out the rubber perch, its there for a reason, the springs will make noise every time they move! metal against metal....... need i say more?

 

thats how she sits now, thats without the front suspension done, thats why that's so high. Couldnt get a better pic of the drivers side because of the stupid fence.

 

Wow.. that is high! Did you remove your watt's link and control arms when you did the swap? I'm wondering if you should put the axle up on jack-stands, loosen up all the suspension bolts, let it settle then torque the bolts down again.

 

nope, i didnt do anything like that. However, i'm gonna go be going down to south jersey to grab a GSL rear end sometime this week, so hopefully that'll make a difference once i install it.

the consensus is stay with rubber on the watts links as opposed to poly bushings?

still need to find a concrete way of differentiating between disc/drum and disc/disc masters/proportioning valves so i can grab the right one.

 

I don't really have to tell you NOT to take the perch out now do I?
Anyhow, it took about 1k miles for my car to completely settle/loosen up. Are those tires roughly the same diameter as stock? You're looks way high. If it dosesn't settle significantly, I'd say to loosen up all the bolts again and bounce the hell out of it then retighten. Ya never know, something could be bound up.

Stay with rubber in the watts for sure.
There is an obvious differance between the drum&disk cyl and prop valve assemblys. It's been to long and I don't remember what it was. Perhaps someone from each camp would be nice enough to post an engine bay pic.

 

Eh, typing fast during lunch break. Apologies for the grammer/spelling.

 

no, i wasnt even going to consider taking out the perch.

when i do the disc rear swap, i'll make sure to drop it first with the bolts loose, bounce her around a lot, and then jack it back up by the axle and tighten it up.

yes the tires (205/50/15) are exactly the same height as stock (185/70/13).

 

Mine didn't settle a whole lot, but it got lower than that. I wasn't happy with the ride height.