Rxxx-7_GSL-SE

i recently bought a '84 GSL-SE and it the seller said the oil cooler was not installed, but still runs without it. He did give me the oil cooler along with one hose, and a mount made of rubber and metal, i saw the other mount already installed on the left side.

So could any one show me a picture diagram of how its supposed to be mounted and which hoses go where?

Also would it be ok just to use it without it?

thanks

1badFB

iTrader: (1)

Sounds shifty to me...I wouldnt ever run a rotary without some form of oil cooler...If I remember correctly they remove quite a bit of heat along with the coolant, and are fairly vital to keeping an engine from overheating. And if theres one thing that will toast an engine heat is it!

Put it back on ASAP.

rolfs_7

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...highlight=fmoc << thats how to install a 2nd gen oil cooler but for the most part they are the same. trochoid done that write up its pretty good. i dunno how that car is running w/o one. ps next time search a little.

steve84GS TII

You never want to run a rotary without the cooler.
1/3 of the engine's heat,nearly 100% of the rotor's cooling, is handled by the oil cooler.
Get the cooler mounted up to where there will be adequate airflow(the stock location is OK) and get the lines routed.Be cautious when tightening the fittings into the cooler.The aluminum nipples that are welded to the cooler tend to crack easily,so be careful when tightening everything up.The top line goes to the front of the engine near the motor mount,the bottom line goes to the back of the engine under the oil cooler.

steve84GS TII

Y

Dan_s_young

iTrader: (1)

Yes, the right up done by Trochoid is awesome! My only question is, how hard would it be to run SS braided lines rather than the rubber lines?

steve84GS TII

Not hard,you just have to route them carfully so as not to chaff through anything.They tend to not bend and curve as well as rubber,and they really are overkill for 100psi engine oil.Ive run rubber Dayco line for years and years,costing about 10-15 bucks in materials.I change them out every 3-4 years,just to be sure.

Most hydro shops can make hose to order,and there are crimpless fittings out now that allow you to cut and make your own braided lines without any hydraulically crushed crimps needed.They are still rated to 3000psi,but you can make them yourself,next to your car,so everything fits just right.A vice and a couple wrenches are all you need to cinch them down.

LongDuck

Some tips from someone who's been there;

1) DO NOT tighten everything up as snug as you can as you go - get all of the hoses into position, and then tight the ones on the FMOC with 2-FINGERS ON THE WRENCH, ONLY. This ensures that you won't crack the aluminum bungs on your SE cooler, which will become the bane of your entire existence on this planet. Tighten the engine-block side to the specific torque specs, and NO MORE.

(few things will evoke cuss words as getting your new cooler installed only to have it spewing oil like a fountain...)

2) Use the correct (and NEW) ALUMINUM crush washers that go under the fittings at the cooler - there may also be copper washers that will work - aluminum is better. Without these in place, it will not seal.

3) Once you get everything hooked up correctly - check it again - be extra careful with the routing and make sure it's all bolted down correctly, but NOT TIGHT.

4) Refill your engine oil - make sure it's to the top line of the dipstick.

5) Start the car - it's going to leak, that's what you want. NOW, go around with the correct 22mm (?) box-end wrenchs (2 of them - one for the bung, one for the fitting) and tighten down the cooler fittings JUST UNTIL THEY STOP LEAKING. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT.

6) Shut the engine off and top off your oil supply again.

You don't need a lot of torque on these fittings, or you'll crack the bungs. Just enough torque until it stops leaking. Any more than this, even 5-7 ft/lbs more, and you're going to start spraying oil from the fractured bungs. Repair can only be completed by a competent heliarc welder, and most shops won't work on coolers that have had oil through them due to explosion/fire risks. Finding one who will is going to be expensive, frustrating, and time-consuming.

Read this post again about 4 times over, and then re-install your FMOC. Don't run the car without an oil cooler - you will toast your engine, guaranteed. HTH,