i dont have any air tools, and my car is loaded. its all pretty much cleared out. is it possible to pull the engine off without removing the transmission? what about with your basic hand tools?

 

Yes. Just hunt around for all the bell housing bolts. Disconect every thing else. Pull the engine forward off the trans. and then lift it streight out. Lining up the pilot shaft and engine when you're putting it back in is a little tricky with the trans in the car, but I managed it with about 15min of fiddling.



--Alex

 

Just unbolt the engine from the bell housing and it will slide right out. There about 5 or 6 bolts total, 1 also attaches the starter. All are easy to see except the one on top. Access it from the passenger side.

 

5 bolts, then one long one that is in opposite of the others that also holds on the starter.

 

You'll obvously have to support the tranny with something also

 

Honestly, I find it easier to pull them together, just make sure you drain the tranny first.

 

I concur. One of my customers gets excited at the start of the race and bends the 3rd gear shift fork. I now charge him to pull the motor and tranny together because it takes about the same amount of time, and means I'm only on my back for 10 minutes disconnecting and reconnecting the driveshaft and tranny brace.

 

oh by the way.....i dont have an engine hoist

 

No engine hoist , I say you definetly need one if you are pulling both the tranny and engine together. I've pulled the tranny with my friend two different occasion. Once with air tools and the other with just hand tools - the main difference is that using hand tools is a bit more time consuming. If you are going to pull the tranny with hand tools - I would recommend that you buy yourself a breaker bar/torque wrench and have two jacks you can use to move the tranny back and fourth when you are aligning it.

 

You don't need to support it with anything, The tranny is actually pretty light.

 

Are you trying to remove the trans or the engine?

A decent 14mm spanner and socket will undo everything holding the engine and manual bellhousing together. The only trick for new players is to VERY carefully document which bolt came from where. You will find that one bolt looks a lot like the others but it holds the starter to the bellhousing and it has a different (coarser) thread,.... and it WILL fu(k you up. It does this to everyone. I'm sure that this is the only reason it exists. Take off the starter and clutch slave cyl's before going too far.

IF you are pulling out the engine you will either need an engine hoist, a chain block, or several very strong mates with an equally strong bit of wood that is much wider than the car. (go rent a hoist, it will save your sanity! )

If you are pulling the trans out, then no major hardware is needed other than a few jacks, wheel ramps and a halfway decent bench- press technique for re-installation!

I've done both ~ used just a chain block to pull and refit the engine, and another time dropped the trans onto my chest. No great problem. But, I do admit, fitting an engine using a fixed position chain block is a pain in the **** as you need to push the car back and forth to line it all up.

 

someone you know has to have a come-along. just hang it from the truss in the garage (if in garage) and pull both will make like 10x easier

 

also get a long 4x4 to span a few of the trusses, then hang it from the 4x4.

 

or you can roll it under a tree.

 

iv got a question that somewhat has to do with this. im planning on swapping the tranny out of my parts car, but it is a GS, and i have a GSL rear end. will this work without any fabbing or modification?

 

^^^yes.

 

awesome. thanks.

 

I've heard you need to be REALLY careful when re-installing the engine to not damage the rear main seal (on the engine) as you slide it onto the tranny shaft...
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

 

Stu its the other way around, ya gotta be careful not to damage the seal on the front of the tranny.

most people don't get the tranny lined up on the first shot, and they tend to let the tranny hang on its input shaft when its partially lined up. this puts a side load on the shaft, allowing trash and debries to work its way under the seal, then when you drive it the seal gets trashed requiring a pulling of the tranny again to change it.

ken