How To: FC TII Transmission in FB Chassis
#1
How To: FC TII Transmission in FB Chassis
I made a two-part video series on installing an FC Turbo II TII transmission in an FB chassis. I just thought that it would make more sense to show others the process than to just draw pictures and expect people to know what to do.
TII shifter rod cut length: 30mm
Shifter tube cut length: 16.5-18mm
TII tail shaft with FB shifter housing
TII shifter rod cut length: 30mm
Shifter tube cut length: 16.5-18mm
TII tail shaft with FB shifter housing
#7
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iTrader: (18)
Yep, I actually put S4 tailshaft housings on both my S5 T2 transmissions to make the swap easier. As you said, move the holes on the FB rubber mount closer together and either space the trans crossmember away from the body that ~3/4" or cut a notch out of the center of it and reweld it lower which is the route I took.
S5's are usable, but the mount surface is not flat like the FB/S4, it's angled so there's considerably more fab work needed. That is assuming you didn't want to solid mount the thing...
One other thing I'd like to point out - while what Austin did will work, there is a slightly better way to address the tube the shift rod goes in. There is a rubber seal on either end that should be retained to keep gear oil in (in the shitfer tower). It's better to cut a section out of the middle and weld it back together, that way you retain the seal on both sides. Some simple RTV though could probably work too. Just depends on how **** you want to get with these things (personally, I'm very haha)
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#8
8/1 Building/Drive Ratio
iTrader: (1)
Yep, I actually put S4 tailshaft housings on both my S5 T2 transmissions to make the swap easier. As you said, move the holes on the FB rubber mount closer together and either space the trans crossmember away from the body that ~3/4" or cut a notch out of the center of it and reweld it lower which is the route I took.
S5's are usable, but the mount surface is not flat like the FB/S4, it's angled so there's considerably more fab work needed. That is assuming you didn't want to solid mount the thing...
One other thing I'd like to point out - while what Austin did will work, there is a slightly better way to address the tube the shift rod goes in. There is a rubber seal on either end that should be retained to keep gear oil in (in the shitfer tower). It's better to cut a section out of the middle and weld it back together, that way you retain the seal on both sides. Some simple RTV though could probably work too. Just depends on how **** you want to get with these things (personally, I'm very haha)
S5's are usable, but the mount surface is not flat like the FB/S4, it's angled so there's considerably more fab work needed. That is assuming you didn't want to solid mount the thing...
One other thing I'd like to point out - while what Austin did will work, there is a slightly better way to address the tube the shift rod goes in. There is a rubber seal on either end that should be retained to keep gear oil in (in the shitfer tower). It's better to cut a section out of the middle and weld it back together, that way you retain the seal on both sides. Some simple RTV though could probably work too. Just depends on how **** you want to get with these things (personally, I'm very haha)
#11
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Help whit driveshaft
o i went whit the AUTO FC YOKE whit the GSL-SE driveshaft but the holes of both parts are different.
I buy the Universal Joint Moog 315G for the AUTO FC YOKE and don’t no what to do.
thanks
AN
I buy the Universal Joint Moog 315G for the AUTO FC YOKE and don’t no what to do.
thanks
AN
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