nick812

Ok after this weekends autocross my clutch was slipping really bad time for a new one. So tell me what clutch you are running and how you like it? I am thinking about 1 of those ebay clutch kits but wanna here if anyone is running 1 and how they like it. The car is a sometime DD but mainly just used for autocrossing. Mods are as listed.

Ludwig motorsport rebuilt 12A
Rebuilt Mukini and 1 peice wraparound intake
MSD Blaster coils
Holley Blue Fuel Pump
NGK Plugs and Wires
Racing Beat Dual Pulley
S4 Alt, fuse box, and coil (Backup)
Red Top battery 2ga power wire
New Radiator, Water Pump
FMOC Running Pennzoil SUV 15w40
New clutch and brake master cyl, Clutch Slave Cyl

I may have more mods but this gives you ideal of what I have.

Box_Man

Get an Exedy clutch.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Agreed. Don't get an eBay clutch. Especially stay away from XTD. I considered getting one once. Then I read into it. Glad I didn't get one.

Use the search function like I did.

nick812

Yea type in clutch kit in the search and see how many BS treads you get. I have done a little research. I just wanna here what cluch some of you like better.

steve84GS TII

Dont bother with Centerforce.
I blew the lining off a Dual Friction disc in only a year and a buddy sheared a puck off his....in a STOCK Civic EX.Holding power was only adequate for a short time,then it gave up and slipped in 3rd and 4th.
Switched to an OS Giken twin plate,but it was too extreme.While somewhat slippable,I wasnt totally happy with the street manners and the rattle of the floater plate got old.


Finally settled on a RB street/strip clutch.Its a sprung hub and organic disc,so its smooth.But there are no marcel springs,so the engagement is nice and taught.The RB pressure plate is stiffer than the CF,about the same effort as the OS.But you get used to it and its super easy to modulate and drive normally compared to a metallic puck clutch.

kenn_chan

I use a OS giken twin plate, and other than the fact that my left leg is now bigger than my right its great no slippage issues whatsoever, and that is with a to4e and 375 at the rear wheels on my first gen.

Kenn

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

I have similiar mods to yours, stockport 12a, Dellorto, RE header with tuned exhaust. I put the Centerforce stage II in because I wanted to try it. So far its fine. I also put an 82 flywheel in place of the 80 one I had. I'm still breaking it in but it grabs crisply and holds fine so far. Of course I'm not pushing a lot of HP thru it and so far I've been gentle with it until 500 miles has gone by, just to be on the safe side.

I'll let you know if I have any issues by posting back here.

RotaryBuddha

iTrader: (4)

SPEC makes really good clutches. I had their stage one on my T2 FC and it was more than enough to handle 350hp to the wheels. I plan to get one for my FB. http://www.specclutch.com/

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

spec supposedly makes AWESOME clutches for mustangs, but their other applications i have heard complaints about.

i used a setup from mazdatrix, a heavy duty PP with a 4 puck sprung hub clutch. pretty grabby setup but i still drove it to work every day.

its for sale :]

ducktape

ACT all the way.

z-beater

ACT 6 puck w/ HD pressure plate. Been great for me.

-xlr8planet-

iTrader: (3)

for a daily driver I would stay organic

I have a 3 puck in my civic and it hates traffic

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

So you went with the street strip presure plate and HD disc? I'm thinking about that combination for the 20B. I don't want something that makes me tired so I should probably avoid the race pressure plate.

I'm thinking pedal efforts go something like this:

stock=easy, ss=medium, race=hard, ACT HD=even harder or just as hard... I'll know more as soon as I get the 20B in there with a street strip pressure plate and compare it with my friend's unknown presure plate from RB. His is either race or street strip. We won't know until I do a comparison side by side.

I've got a 215mm street strip pressure plate and full faced organic disc with springy marcels lying around. The 215mm HD disc is dead unfortunately. I also have a low mileage RB light steel flywheel. This brief test before the rebuild will determine which pressure plate I ultimately get. I eventually want to try an aluminum flywheel with 225mm clutch stuff so even if the 215 slips a tiny bit, the 225 should do ok until I go turbo.

steve84GS TII

After the OS,the stiff RB clutch was a welcome change with its organic lining.
Sure,its still a bit more push on the pedal compared to stock,but the RB disc is very streetable.It slips and transitions like stock, except for the quicker take-up.(no marcels)

It probably wouldnt be too had to juggle master cylinders around to ease the pedal effort. Just have to sniff around for physically swappable units.Thats what I did on my V-6 Samurai, since rock crawling requires a fair bit of clutch work and fatigue is a big factor during an all day event.I swapped out my original MC for a smaller, Fiero MC that gave me more mech. advantage over the stiff PP.Pedal throw is longer,but only a portion of the travel is needed for disengagement,so an adjustable bumper on the firewall along with the stock stopper bolt are used to get the "take-up" point at the center of the throw.You might even be able to change the pivot point on the pedal a bit,to fiddle with ratios and pedal effort.
Ill tell you one thing,both my cars have soft feeling clutches compared to my boss's CTS-V.....that thing has an animal of a clutch push.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

+1

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Thanks Steve. Now I really can't wait to get that street strip pressure plate in there to test it.

From what I can remember, the GSL-SE had a pretty easy pedal effort, and the part number is different from '81-'83. The car needs new clutch hydraulics so I'm debating.

Hey, what type of flywheel is this? It fits 215mm only and is quite thin.

mar3

iTrader: (8)

Centerforce Dual Friction...installed in 1995, did daily driver duty until 2003 including stints to a road course and also the local 1/8 mile track. 4500 rpm drop starts, no slippage, no smells from it, but now it sits on the RP Streetport 12A engine on an engine stand in my garage waiting for the stock 12A to die in the gray '83. Pedal pressure was the same, holding power was way over stock.

The nonsense about the weights on the rings moving is just that, NONSENSE...I can take pics of my clutch that shows they're all still in place, not twisted, not anything except normal even after 8 years of hard street driving.

nick812

Mixed reviews on some but so far nothing bad about racing beats. I dont want something to hard.

ducktape

I liked the Centerforce Dual-friction. Nice stock pedal effort and engagement. Starts to give up around 300hp.

nick812

yea i aint gonna be pushing that kinda HP I am gonna call KY clutch tomorrow and see what they have.

steve84GS TII

+1 on the pedal effort and feel....it was smooth.
My HP level is around 300,so I didnt expect it to last too long....what I didnt expect was for it to slip in the higher revs,where the so called "centerforce action" should be making it grip harder.Im sure the year of high speed slippage and heat is what later caused it to fail completely during a modest 1-2 shift.Then,the same week, my friends very new CF DF failed on his 125HP Civic.My buddy got a new disc for free from CF but still,I was convinced to go elsewhere after that.Bad taste,cant help it....there are lots of other clutches in the sea.

Behind an N/A rotary,the CF DF clutch is probably all you need for a streetcar or occasional racer.But,the torque of a turbo engine makes it marginal at best.