How can I improve ride quality?
05-04-04, 11:51 AM
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How can I improve ride quality?
I have a stock 1981 FB with probably the original suspension setup in it. I am looking to make the ride a lot more comfortable for daily driving purposes. What shocks/springs should I look at to accomplish this?
05-09-04, 11:38 PM
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Tires make a big difference, even on the 13 inch wheels. I went from all season tires (185/70/13) to the summer only tires (Sumotomo 205/60/13) and the ride got much more rough . . .but I like it that way. Also check your tire pressure. Run them at 27psi. That makes a huge difference.
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05-10-04, 12:36 PM
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I have ST springs, Tokico HP shocks and struts, new tires, and front bushings...after about 1 month the suspension has settled in and the ride is definately comfortable...
05-10-04, 12:56 PM
#10
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
There are a lot of things that you can do to restore ride 'quality', but each of these is going to be a trade-off for what you consider to be the right direction. Some things to consider are; do you drive mostly highway or city? Do you take long trips or short? Are your streets pock-marked with potholes or mostly smooth? Do you drive the car in winter when ground clearance may be important? Do you want 'sporty', or 'comfortable'?
Once you answer these questions for how you want YOUR car to ride, then consider that against what some of the rest of us have done to improve performance and/or ride quality.
In my own case, my car is driven every day on smooth freeways back and forth to work, with occasional city driving for short trips, and occasional long trips on smooth freeway. In AZ, we don't have salt or snow to worry about, so I like a stiff ride, but a taut suspension to prevent rattles and stuff when you do hit a highway dot or two. For me, having a tight suspension also increases my fun for city driving, and makes freeway cruising like riding on a cushion of air.
To get this, I started with the following modifications/upgrades (prices shown for comparison to your purposes):
Replaced front lower control arms with Mazda Factory rubber bushings - $70x2 - restores steering effect and new bushings make the front much softer and more comfortable.
Replaced upper strut mounts with Mazda Factory rubber bushings - $40x2 - restores proper caster and camber alignment and tightens the upper strut mount.
Installed RB Strut Tower Brace - $278 - increase front torsional rigidity.
Replaced Tension Rod bushings w/Poly aftermarket - $16 set - decrease front bump-steer due to deflection during bump impact.
Swapped rubber for Poly aftermarket front/rear stabilizer bar bushings - $40 set - descreases corner leaning and strengthens torsional resistance to flex.
Tokico Blues - $50x4 - restores damper effectiveness, good ride quality, and stiffens the car, overall.
Koni stabilizer bars, front and adjustable rear - $200 - bigger bars, and adjustable in the rear to compensate for body lean, increases cornering 'flatness'.
RB Springs, Front and rear - $200 - increases lbs/inch of compression, lowers stock ride height by 1/2"-3/4", further reduces body lean in corners.
Replaced Idle Arm Bushings w/Mazda Factory part - $10 set - reduced steering rattles and restores steering accuracy.
Some of these modifications/maintenance and a quality set of tires and you should be in good shape. Most of the work can be done in your garage at home, and will definitely get your car back to riding like when it first left the factory. Good luck,
Once you answer these questions for how you want YOUR car to ride, then consider that against what some of the rest of us have done to improve performance and/or ride quality.
In my own case, my car is driven every day on smooth freeways back and forth to work, with occasional city driving for short trips, and occasional long trips on smooth freeway. In AZ, we don't have salt or snow to worry about, so I like a stiff ride, but a taut suspension to prevent rattles and stuff when you do hit a highway dot or two. For me, having a tight suspension also increases my fun for city driving, and makes freeway cruising like riding on a cushion of air.
To get this, I started with the following modifications/upgrades (prices shown for comparison to your purposes):
Replaced front lower control arms with Mazda Factory rubber bushings - $70x2 - restores steering effect and new bushings make the front much softer and more comfortable.
Replaced upper strut mounts with Mazda Factory rubber bushings - $40x2 - restores proper caster and camber alignment and tightens the upper strut mount.
Installed RB Strut Tower Brace - $278 - increase front torsional rigidity.
Replaced Tension Rod bushings w/Poly aftermarket - $16 set - decrease front bump-steer due to deflection during bump impact.
Swapped rubber for Poly aftermarket front/rear stabilizer bar bushings - $40 set - descreases corner leaning and strengthens torsional resistance to flex.
Tokico Blues - $50x4 - restores damper effectiveness, good ride quality, and stiffens the car, overall.
Koni stabilizer bars, front and adjustable rear - $200 - bigger bars, and adjustable in the rear to compensate for body lean, increases cornering 'flatness'.
RB Springs, Front and rear - $200 - increases lbs/inch of compression, lowers stock ride height by 1/2"-3/4", further reduces body lean in corners.
Replaced Idle Arm Bushings w/Mazda Factory part - $10 set - reduced steering rattles and restores steering accuracy.
Some of these modifications/maintenance and a quality set of tires and you should be in good shape. Most of the work can be done in your garage at home, and will definitely get your car back to riding like when it first left the factory. Good luck,
05-10-04, 03:00 PM
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Quoting Longduck from this page...
from another thread i've read a long time ago (can't find it now) i understand that new motor mounts smooth out the ride some, especially at highway speeds...
Originally posted by LongDuck
Engine mounts (front) are easily replaced without hoisting the engine out or otherwise requiring removal of any ancillary components. The front 2 mounts are attached to the Engine Cross Brace and to the front member at the sides. These two mounts are different on left and right for 13b SE motors - may or may not be the same for other motors.
Removal of mounts requires that you place a hydraulic jack under the front of the engine BRACE (not the oilpan - as it will dent easily), using a block of wood to separate the load. Apply enough jack pressure to take the weight off the mounts. Loosen the single 14mm nuts on the top of the mounts that attach to the brace, then remove the 2 14mm nuts that attach to the front member. Carefully jack the motor up far enough that both engine mounts can be pulled free from the brace and crossmember. Insert new mounts, lower jack slightly, reinstall 14mm nuts all around, and lower the jack completely.
The engine mounts are 2 sections of bent steel, one in a 'dished' shape for the top, and a steel washer at the bottom, together sandwiching a rubber insert that isolates vibration. These will sag over time, and can occasionally break through the rubber, causing excessive engine/transmission torquing under load. It's not uncommon to have everything 'look' okay from the outside until you get the brace apart and find a broken rubber mount.
The other engine mount is at the back of the transmission, forming a 3-point suspension for the engine and drivetrain. This is similar in construction, and easily changed during a clutch job, or other transmission work.
Engine mounts (front) are easily replaced without hoisting the engine out or otherwise requiring removal of any ancillary components. The front 2 mounts are attached to the Engine Cross Brace and to the front member at the sides. These two mounts are different on left and right for 13b SE motors - may or may not be the same for other motors.
Removal of mounts requires that you place a hydraulic jack under the front of the engine BRACE (not the oilpan - as it will dent easily), using a block of wood to separate the load. Apply enough jack pressure to take the weight off the mounts. Loosen the single 14mm nuts on the top of the mounts that attach to the brace, then remove the 2 14mm nuts that attach to the front member. Carefully jack the motor up far enough that both engine mounts can be pulled free from the brace and crossmember. Insert new mounts, lower jack slightly, reinstall 14mm nuts all around, and lower the jack completely.
The engine mounts are 2 sections of bent steel, one in a 'dished' shape for the top, and a steel washer at the bottom, together sandwiching a rubber insert that isolates vibration. These will sag over time, and can occasionally break through the rubber, causing excessive engine/transmission torquing under load. It's not uncommon to have everything 'look' okay from the outside until you get the brace apart and find a broken rubber mount.
The other engine mount is at the back of the transmission, forming a 3-point suspension for the engine and drivetrain. This is similar in construction, and easily changed during a clutch job, or other transmission work.
Last edited by bizarro; 05-10-04 at 03:03 PM.
05-10-04, 10:39 PM
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Here are some spring rates for the different manufactures.
Stock(f/b) 100/85
RB (145/110)
ST 85 to 120 front and 80 for the rear- it is a dual rate spring in the front. ( probably the most streetworthy)
EIbachs (171/100)
I would go for the ST for the street.
Stock(f/b) 100/85
RB (145/110)
ST 85 to 120 front and 80 for the rear- it is a dual rate spring in the front. ( probably the most streetworthy)
EIbachs (171/100)
I would go for the ST for the street.
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