Horatio1337
11 Digit VIN?
Is there such a thing as an 11 digit VIN? I found this car on eBay and the seller claims the VIN is SA22C604967 of course this doesn't line up on Carfax or anything else, its only 11 digits... Is this a scam?
Last edited by Horatio1337; Apr 11, 2006 at 01:37 PM.
not a scam. before 1981, all rx-7's starting with SA22C were 11 didget VINs. 81 started JM1FB33 and had the 17 didget VIN. nowadays all vehicles have a 17 charactor VIN.
Awesome
I'm impressed with everything I've seen in this car, however my fear is the Odometer could have been rolled back (56 000 miles on a 1980), is it possible to check a pre 1981 VIN? Also he says its an anniversary edition though didn't the anniversary edition come out in 1988?
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...DME:L:RTQ:CA:1
Thanks for all the info for a newbie
I'm impressed with everything I've seen in this car, however my fear is the Odometer could have been rolled back (56 000 miles on a 1980), is it possible to check a pre 1981 VIN? Also he says its an anniversary edition though didn't the anniversary edition come out in 1988?http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...DME:L:RTQ:CA:1
Thanks for all the info for a newbie
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Horatio-
visual condition of the car will tell you everything, especially if you look underneith. 156K miles of road wear can't be hidden under there. There are actually a surprising number of low mileage RX7s coming on the market all the time so the 56K mileage is likely legit if the car looks the part. Meeting the owner and his - hopefully- having service records will help too. As you have found out there is no easy way I know of to do a VIN trace on a car that old, but the serial number you gave is correct for the model. And if it is the ebay car listed in southern Alberta, it is indeed an "10th" Anniversary Edition celebrating mazda selling Rotary cars in N. America since 1970 (R100 days - *sigh*). The "X" means 10th year. It came with the power mirrors found on the 1981+ RX7s and a few other trim tricks. Really desirable SA version to get!!!
Promise to post some pix of it here on the forum if you get it OK??
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
visual condition of the car will tell you everything, especially if you look underneith. 156K miles of road wear can't be hidden under there. There are actually a surprising number of low mileage RX7s coming on the market all the time so the 56K mileage is likely legit if the car looks the part. Meeting the owner and his - hopefully- having service records will help too. As you have found out there is no easy way I know of to do a VIN trace on a car that old, but the serial number you gave is correct for the model. And if it is the ebay car listed in southern Alberta, it is indeed an "10th" Anniversary Edition celebrating mazda selling Rotary cars in N. America since 1970 (R100 days - *sigh*). The "X" means 10th year. It came with the power mirrors found on the 1981+ RX7s and a few other trim tricks. Really desirable SA version to get!!!
Promise to post some pix of it here on the forum if you get it OK??
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
Well here are the pics
But I'm not a car guy... my specialty is computers so visual inspection wouldn't mean jack to me, could be 10 or a million miles and I'd never know the difference >.> And sadly he doesn't have any service records... thats what makes me nervous about buying it, that Odometer could be rolled waaaay back >.<
http://members.shaw.ca/gimli/car
But I'm not a car guy... my specialty is computers so visual inspection wouldn't mean jack to me, could be 10 or a million miles and I'd never know the difference >.> And sadly he doesn't have any service records... thats what makes me nervous about buying it, that Odometer could be rolled waaaay back >.<http://members.shaw.ca/gimli/car
One of the easiest ways to tell if it is 56k or 156 is to look at the amount on interior wear. Particular areas are: Side bolster and seat bolster on the seats. Is the fabric worn/split, the foam padding breaking down. The heel spot under the accelerator pedal in the carpet. *****, buttons, steering wheel and shift ****, do these look overly worn, disregard sun damage.
I don't know the conversion rate between US and Canadian dollars, but the price seems a bit high. However, if the car is in mint condition, both in appearence and mechanicals, it may be worth it. The body would have to be absolutely rust free for me to even concider that kind of a price point though.
I don't know the conversion rate between US and Canadian dollars, but the price seems a bit high. However, if the car is in mint condition, both in appearence and mechanicals, it may be worth it. The body would have to be absolutely rust free for me to even concider that kind of a price point though.
Last edited by trochoid; Apr 11, 2006 at 10:28 PM.
Yeah, I'm not sure what it is but cars seem to cost a helluva lot more up here then they do in the States.... of course to bring it across the border is like 40% duty.... Free Trade Zone my ***...
Your ebay SA
Horatio -
looked at your pix - the mileage is VERY likely genuine! Bracketry and hardware in the engine compartment is w-a-a-ay too shiney still to be 156K miles. Looks better than my 62K mile 80 RX did when I got it and that HAD all the service records. Now that doesn't mean the car may not have some issues. Unless some care is exercised in proper storage, a seldom-used low mileage car can have mechanical woes. None of which should deter you from buying, BUT could impact the price you pay. For example, unless properly treated, a tank partially full of gasoline that has sat for months on end can get pretty gummy and do a number on the whole fuel system. Nothing a good clean out doesn't cure BUT the 1980 RX7 does not have a drain on the fuel tank (!) so if its rusted in there or really gooey, the tank has to come OUT to clean. Likewise if the coolant is -gawd forbid- ORIGINAL, then the gunk and deposits could have easly ruined the rad and require at least a very professional flushing of the engine/heater system. And worse-case senario with rotary engine cars is if the internal oil seals in the engine have dried up from sitting a long time the engine could be due for a rebuild inspite the low mileage.
I am painting a bleak picture here but nothing that could be problematic with ANY little-used 26 yr old car, so I am not dissing Mazdas or rotaries. I took the same risk with my RX7, checked it out and had no problems! (and then proceeded to drive it 3400 miles home to Alaska!)
But at this price range its really worth spending the $100 or so at a Mazda dealer and getting the whole car looked over for leaks AND get the engine's health determined by a Compression Test using a Mazda Rotary Engine Compression Tester, which is a special unit for rotaries - a regular compression tester will NOT work properly. Beyond whatever immediate mechanical repairs maybe needed I would prepare myself to spend another $300-500 to get everything up to par unless the owner can provide proof the following has been done recently, including:
1) full rad / engine flush with new coolant and 50%+ DISTILLED water
2) all new coolant and heater hoses. I GUARANTEE the hoses have NEVER been changed and at 26yrs old they WILL blow - soon! And as anyone here will tell you, rotaries have NO tolerance for overheating. Spend $70 on hoses (includes the 3 heater hoses) or put in a new motor... do the thermostat while you have it all apart.
3) oil and filter - d-uh
4) new fuel filter (!!!!!!)
5) new tranny and diff oil!! Again, probably has NEVER been changed!! Yike!
6) flush brakes!!! fluid will be more water than brake fluid by now and be actively corroding the insides of your whole brake system.
7) air cleaner replacement
I would negotiate an equitable price with the guy SUBJECT to a mechanic's inspection. He is asking a very tall dollar so this is not an unreasonable request. If he balks - walk!!
good luck - looks like a fabulous car! promise us all you'll keep it stock! No ricer mods!!!!
Stu Aull
looked at your pix - the mileage is VERY likely genuine! Bracketry and hardware in the engine compartment is w-a-a-ay too shiney still to be 156K miles. Looks better than my 62K mile 80 RX did when I got it and that HAD all the service records. Now that doesn't mean the car may not have some issues. Unless some care is exercised in proper storage, a seldom-used low mileage car can have mechanical woes. None of which should deter you from buying, BUT could impact the price you pay. For example, unless properly treated, a tank partially full of gasoline that has sat for months on end can get pretty gummy and do a number on the whole fuel system. Nothing a good clean out doesn't cure BUT the 1980 RX7 does not have a drain on the fuel tank (!) so if its rusted in there or really gooey, the tank has to come OUT to clean. Likewise if the coolant is -gawd forbid- ORIGINAL, then the gunk and deposits could have easly ruined the rad and require at least a very professional flushing of the engine/heater system. And worse-case senario with rotary engine cars is if the internal oil seals in the engine have dried up from sitting a long time the engine could be due for a rebuild inspite the low mileage.
I am painting a bleak picture here but nothing that could be problematic with ANY little-used 26 yr old car, so I am not dissing Mazdas or rotaries. I took the same risk with my RX7, checked it out and had no problems! (and then proceeded to drive it 3400 miles home to Alaska!)
But at this price range its really worth spending the $100 or so at a Mazda dealer and getting the whole car looked over for leaks AND get the engine's health determined by a Compression Test using a Mazda Rotary Engine Compression Tester, which is a special unit for rotaries - a regular compression tester will NOT work properly. Beyond whatever immediate mechanical repairs maybe needed I would prepare myself to spend another $300-500 to get everything up to par unless the owner can provide proof the following has been done recently, including:
1) full rad / engine flush with new coolant and 50%+ DISTILLED water
2) all new coolant and heater hoses. I GUARANTEE the hoses have NEVER been changed and at 26yrs old they WILL blow - soon! And as anyone here will tell you, rotaries have NO tolerance for overheating. Spend $70 on hoses (includes the 3 heater hoses) or put in a new motor... do the thermostat while you have it all apart.
3) oil and filter - d-uh
4) new fuel filter (!!!!!!)
5) new tranny and diff oil!! Again, probably has NEVER been changed!! Yike!
6) flush brakes!!! fluid will be more water than brake fluid by now and be actively corroding the insides of your whole brake system.
7) air cleaner replacement
I would negotiate an equitable price with the guy SUBJECT to a mechanic's inspection. He is asking a very tall dollar so this is not an unreasonable request. If he balks - walk!!
good luck - looks like a fabulous car! promise us all you'll keep it stock! No ricer mods!!!!

Stu Aull






