Home-made CAI plus more air mod
06-09-06, 09:59 PM
#1
pwned
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Northern Indiana
Posts: 1,296
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Home-made CAI plus more air mod
ok.. ive been readin for the last 30min or so and have a few ideas... i ordered a stock intake box.. (the blue thing) that im gonna chop up to get more air into it.. im also thinking about making a homade CAI to go with it?? stupid idea or no?
and a Q about the flapper that is in the cannister by the black funnel.
it helps with cold starts right? for like winter and ****. and if imi not mistakin it will close once the engine heats up to where it needs to be.. well theres a *supposed* (one person said it was proven by dyno, bt i didnt feel liek opening the site) 3hp increase to the wheels if u cut it out. well.... if u took it out wouldnt the hot air coming from the white tube keep coming? if not then ill cool.
thats all i can think of for now...
and a Q about the flapper that is in the cannister by the black funnel.
it helps with cold starts right? for like winter and ****. and if imi not mistakin it will close once the engine heats up to where it needs to be.. well theres a *supposed* (one person said it was proven by dyno, bt i didnt feel liek opening the site) 3hp increase to the wheels if u cut it out. well.... if u took it out wouldnt the hot air coming from the white tube keep coming? if not then ill cool.
thats all i can think of for now...
06-10-06, 01:09 AM
#2
Cutting the sides out of the stock air box does not allow more cold air in. It allows more air flow, if even needed. It also allows more HOT air in due to where it is drawing air from.
The flapper can be removed by taking the circlips off of the shaft and arm and driving the shaft out through the flapper. Then remove the hot air flex tube and plug the hole.
If you want cold air, add an intake tube that goes outside of the engine bay. Cut the snorkel back to match the diameter of the new tubing.
The flapper can be removed by taking the circlips off of the shaft and arm and driving the shaft out through the flapper. Then remove the hot air flex tube and plug the hole.
If you want cold air, add an intake tube that goes outside of the engine bay. Cut the snorkel back to match the diameter of the new tubing.
06-10-06, 01:14 AM
#3
Rockin' the suburbs!
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Dayton, Ohio
Posts: 499
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So you're running a stock Nikki Carb right?
I've found that you don't want too much air going into your air box. If the carb is working properly it might not be a huge deal but your best bet is leaving the air box the way it is. Just eliminate the rats nest and excess vacuum lines(you only need three in the whole engine I believe) if you don't want the extra goodies like windshield wiper fluid, cruise control, and emissions controls. Then seal up the open vacuum line spouts from the air box.
With a CAI you should watch it in the winter. Too much cold air can cause your carb to freeze... bad move. Also you must watch placement because you could possible end up with water being sucked into your intake which is not a good thing. Hydro-lock or some such other things.
The flapper is unecessary. I've found my car runs better since removing it. It was to put hot air from the exhaust into the air box to recycle it and give it hot air because it was thought to help. Colder air runs much better. Take that hose off and leave it.
I've found that you don't want too much air going into your air box. If the carb is working properly it might not be a huge deal but your best bet is leaving the air box the way it is. Just eliminate the rats nest and excess vacuum lines(you only need three in the whole engine I believe) if you don't want the extra goodies like windshield wiper fluid, cruise control, and emissions controls. Then seal up the open vacuum line spouts from the air box.
With a CAI you should watch it in the winter. Too much cold air can cause your carb to freeze... bad move. Also you must watch placement because you could possible end up with water being sucked into your intake which is not a good thing. Hydro-lock or some such other things.
The flapper is unecessary. I've found my car runs better since removing it. It was to put hot air from the exhaust into the air box to recycle it and give it hot air because it was thought to help. Colder air runs much better. Take that hose off and leave it.
06-10-06, 01:35 AM
#4
pwned
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Northern Indiana
Posts: 1,296
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i do have a stock nikki right now, with mech seconds soon, but i plan to upgrade it, or have sterling rebuild it. 
but im aiming towards the sound aspect from cutting the intake cannister. i wanted to cai to kinda balance the hot air.
wat can i use to plug the hole after i take the tube out?
but im aiming towards the sound aspect from cutting the intake cannister. i wanted to cai to kinda balance the hot air. wat can i use to plug the hole after i take the tube out?
06-10-06, 01:36 AM
#5
Let's try this again.
1. Vacuum has nothing to do with the wipers, they are electric, as is the pump in the washer tank. What you are refering to is the cold start assist tank, which should have a mixture ratio of 90/10 antifreeze/water. I had vacuum operated wipers on my 57 Chevy, have not seen them on another vehicle since.
2. This is a rotary, not a piston, we do not hydrolock and I wish this ******* myth would die. To even have a remote chance of hydrolocking, the intake would have to be totally submerged, allowing no air in at all.
3. The heating tube from the exhaust manifold does not recycle air. It draws in air heated by the exhaust mani to accelerate warm ups and reduce emmisions. Once the engine is warm, the flapper should close, blocking flow of the pre-heated air.
4. Each housing has a port that allows coolant to pass though a seperate looped chamber inside the intake manifold. This feature prevents carb icing.
I suggest more reading and not parroting incorrect information.
1. Vacuum has nothing to do with the wipers, they are electric, as is the pump in the washer tank. What you are refering to is the cold start assist tank, which should have a mixture ratio of 90/10 antifreeze/water. I had vacuum operated wipers on my 57 Chevy, have not seen them on another vehicle since.
2. This is a rotary, not a piston, we do not hydrolock and I wish this ******* myth would die. To even have a remote chance of hydrolocking, the intake would have to be totally submerged, allowing no air in at all.
3. The heating tube from the exhaust manifold does not recycle air. It draws in air heated by the exhaust mani to accelerate warm ups and reduce emmisions. Once the engine is warm, the flapper should close, blocking flow of the pre-heated air.
4. Each housing has a port that allows coolant to pass though a seperate looped chamber inside the intake manifold. This feature prevents carb icing.
I suggest more reading and not parroting incorrect information.
06-10-06, 01:38 AM
#6
Originally Posted by dean23
i do have a stock nikki right now, with mech seconds soon, but i plan to upgrade it, or have sterling rebuild it. but im aiming towards the sound aspect from cutting the intake cannister. i wanted to cai to kinda balance the hot air.
wat can i use to plug the hole after i take the tube out?
but im aiming towards the sound aspect from cutting the intake cannister. i wanted to cai to kinda balance the hot air. wat can i use to plug the hole after i take the tube out?
Trending Topics
06-11-06, 01:26 AM
#11
FB+FC=F-ME
Heed the warnings about going too cold with the intake air.
My old Yaw Nikki would freeze up in less than 2 miles on the freeway,even if it wasnt below freezing outside.I had the hot air pipe unhooked and my stock aircleaner plumbed to the front bumper.
You need a certain amount of heat to get/keep the fuel vaporized and suspended in the intake stream.Evaporating fuel furthur lowers the intake temps and the carb can and will freeze up,even if its well above freezing outside.Granted,I had my intake manifold water ports blocked up,but still,Id unhook any type of outside air intake in the winter if your running a carb.
My old Yaw Nikki would freeze up in less than 2 miles on the freeway,even if it wasnt below freezing outside.I had the hot air pipe unhooked and my stock aircleaner plumbed to the front bumper.
You need a certain amount of heat to get/keep the fuel vaporized and suspended in the intake stream.Evaporating fuel furthur lowers the intake temps and the carb can and will freeze up,even if its well above freezing outside.Granted,I had my intake manifold water ports blocked up,but still,Id unhook any type of outside air intake in the winter if your running a carb.
06-11-06, 01:43 AM
#12
pwned
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Northern Indiana
Posts: 1,296
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well i was thinkin the same thing, but my main q now is will i benefit more power from having a cold air (home-made) or having the air can cut to draw more air in?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jeff20B
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
73
09-16-18 07:16 PM
msilvia
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
15
09-11-15 12:13 PM
mulcryant
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
10
09-09-15 05:24 PM
Tem120
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
4
09-07-15 09:53 AM
