Weather your upgrading your fuel pump for a high performance application, or replacing your stock pump, this is the thread for you! hopefully this will help with future questions.

Supplies that I bought (You may not need all of this depending on your application.)

- Fuel pump (I chose a Holley Red)
- FPR (Holley product, this is a 1-4psi unit.) (Not needed in all applications, but recommended.)
- Fuel line ( I got 12ft of copper and 7 feet of rubber (3/8ths.)
- Fuel fittings ( I bought 5 3/8ths barbed nipples.)
- Hose clamps ( I got 10)
- 16 gauge wire
- Shrink wrap
- Electronic butt connectors.
- Thread sealant. (Stuff that can be used in fuel applications.)

Again, this is what I bought for MY application, YOUR application might be different, depending on what you're doing.

I haven't installed anything on the car yet, but will update this thread as I go.





Old pump looks like it was about to bite the bullet.

 

so have you been to princess auto lately? LOL

good stuff! shouldn't take too long to get it running.

 

^^Yes...yes I have...^^

It's in. Pretty fun project, probably the first time I've never ran into any snags or issues, or needed a extra part. Clean install to, Pump is mounted on the driveside framerail, and the regulator is on the driveside shock tower. Shiney! The zip ties are just holding the fuel filter from bouncing around.

 

how much did all this cost?

 

In Canadian funds, before taxes...

- Fuel pump $179
- FPR $39
- Fuel line Copper was 29.88 rubber was about $20
- Fuel fittings $7 each x 5
- Hose clamps $1.09 each x 10
- 16 gauge wire $4.99
- Shrink wrap $3.49
- Electronic butt connectors. $.99
- Thread sealant. $4.99

I think with taxes and everything it was like...360 something...I'll get out the receipts and do the math.

 

someone convert that to american $ lol

 

$360.50.

I am serious too...

 

The Canadian dollar is actually higher than the American right now, but I bet these parts are alot cheaper in the states.

 

1.0014

 

oh

 

I have a question, can I use the other "out" port on the regulator as a return? Im guessing not. What's gonna be the downside of not running a return?

 

I could be wrong, but I think you want to run your fuel return off of the Nikki, not off of your regulator. I'd guess that going off the regulator would cause you to run lean since you are returning fuel before it has been offered to the engine. Physics will cause it to take the path of least resistance, which I do believe would be back to the tank. Hence, you're fuel pump would be short circuiting the engine.

It's like offering a homeless man a Big Mac and then eating it in front of him before he has a chance to take it....

EDIT: Just saw that you are running a Weber. I'm guessing you don't have a provision for fuel return on your carb? I'm guessing that if you don't run a return that pressure will just build up downstream of the pump. You're only going to be looking at a couple of psi. It may cause some loss of efficiency in the pump, since the fuel pump is trying to overcome that pressure head, but I don't think you'll hurt anything.

Anyone with some real world experience to go along with my conjecturing??

Jamie

 

Yes, If I was running the stock Nikki, than there would be no issue, but the Weber doesn't have a return. Im guessing that you're correct that I can't run a return off the regulator and that the pump will just have to keep pumping against the pressure, and hopefully it won't fry itself.

 

I have a very similar setup and will post some pics up after this weekend. I used Holley blue stuff though which I'm not 100% sure about. I have some "domestic" buddies who say it's bad - but its been ok so far. I also used a holley FPR with a Holley carb...

You're missing a clamp on the hose coming off your fuel filter to the hard line BTW..

 

No, there's a clamp there, but it isnt like the other hose clamps, its one of the ones that is like a spring, and you pinch the two tabs on it to open it.

And I would appreciate the pics.

 

Good list on the parts and overall a decent writeup. I have a few recommendations. Rotate the pump so the in/out ports are in-line with the frame rail, mount the fpr on the firewall. If you bend the mounting bracket, you can mount it on the flange/pinch weld between the firewall and cowl. That will cut down on all the extra fuel line that you're running. Routing gets tight when doing this, which I've solved by adding a 2 fuel filter that has 120& offset on the barbs. kgray should have the part # in his glove box. iirc, he's posted pics of the install I did on his.

I would use aluminum or stainless steel for the hard lines. Copper will corrode faster than the others. If you have a flaring tool, make a bulb flare at the end of the lines for better sealing with the hose clamps and spend the extra cash for the FI clamps instead of using the worm clamps. The solid clamps won't chew up the rubber. You should also use a loop style clamp to affix the line to the floor pan. The stock ones will crush the tubing when tightened to specs and use every oem mounting point to prevent any vibration/wear due to the line rubbing against the body.

Did you incorporate the cut/check valve that's on the frame rail? It's easy to tap new holes and move it up to keep the pump tucked up high for clearance.

To answer an earlier question about using that fpr with a return line, no, it doesn't have a return port. The return style fprs are 2-3 times the cost of the Holley deadhead fprs.

 

- I figured Copper would corrode slower, and thats all that Canadian Tire had in stock.
- I do have a flaring tool.
- Canadian Tire did have the FI clamps, but I chose the worm clamps, cause they were cheaper.
- Should I really rotate the pump and relocate the FPR? Will it make any difference? The pump is turned so that there is plenty of distance between the axle and the lines.
- My check/cut valve was removed from the car,hopefully I never roll my car.
- I've used the OEM fasteners to hold the lines up, but didn't tighten them hard enough to crush the copper.
- I do plan on adding a filter before the FPR.

Also, your saying that it is ok to dead head my fuel circuit?

 

Yes, deadhead the fuel system. This is easily done by flipping the one-way valve in the return line.

The rest is up to you, but I get a bit **** on my installs, particularly when it comes to fuel systems.

To rotate the pump, you will need a 90* barb on the in port of the pump. The cut/check valve can simply be moved higher, it is a safety item.

The type of clamps I use are a closed loop with a rubber insert

 

I know the one way valve that you speak of, but it's tiny, will it affect fuel flow? I can in corporate it into this setup? I'm guessing I put it before the regulator?

Also I've removed that valve, so I forget which way it goes, which way should I "flip it"

 

Nice install, let me know how it runs, i have a Carter fuel pump and holley FPR that i never installed... I need to go put that on my stock car.

 

The one way valve goes in the return line with the arrow pointing towards the carb to BLOCK fuel flow. Arrow points in the direction that flow is enabled. If you can't see the arrow, blow through it.

 

Ohh, you mean If I run the stock return line. Im talking about when I set up my Weber, which doesn't have a return line.

Just dead head it into the Weber?

 

If the Weber has the L connector instead of the more common Tee connector for fuel, no return line needed. If it has the Tee connector, install the one way valve backward.

 

Yeah, the Weber only has one fuel nipple on it.