Holley float level
10-22-18, 11:01 AM
#1
Holley float level
I'm having trouble getting the float level to not pour out of the side sight hole. I lower the adjustment nut per the instructions. Which is;
fill fuel bowls (engine off) by turning key to ON for 2-3 seconds a few times. Turn ky to OFF. Then remove sight plug. Gas should just barely seep out when level is correct.
For me, it pours out everytime.
possibly a stuck float?
any other possible causes? Or reasons i may be doing it wrong?
fill fuel bowls (engine off) by turning key to ON for 2-3 seconds a few times. Turn ky to OFF. Then remove sight plug. Gas should just barely seep out when level is correct.
For me, it pours out everytime.
possibly a stuck float?
any other possible causes? Or reasons i may be doing it wrong?
10-22-18, 11:26 AM
#2
The adjustment needle and seat has jammed up on me completely closed once. It might be able to get stuck the other way. Try taking the bowl off and unscrewing the entire assembly to see if the needle still moves freely. The outer adjustment can lose contact with the cartridge and no amount of turning will do anything.
Is it overflowing out of the breather port on the top of the bowl?
Is it overflowing out of the breather port on the top of the bowl?
10-22-18, 04:34 PM
#3
ancient wizard...
Are both primary and secondary bowl sight plugs overflowing,what fuel pump are you running,do you have a pressure regulator adjusted to 5-6psi?
Fuel pressure higher than that can push needles off their seats and raise level of fuel in bowl.
Is this a new carb,recently overhauled,are the floats misadjusted or not yet been adjusted?
When assembling after a rebuild ,i always install needle seat/adjuster/float into bowl and adjust to where float is very slightly less than 1/2 way to level in bowl and install on metering plate. After getting car running and checking sight plugs,often very close to not needing further adjustment.
You want the fuel level to be right at bottom of threads in open sight plug.
Fuel pressure higher than that can push needles off their seats and raise level of fuel in bowl.
Is this a new carb,recently overhauled,are the floats misadjusted or not yet been adjusted?
When assembling after a rebuild ,i always install needle seat/adjuster/float into bowl and adjust to where float is very slightly less than 1/2 way to level in bowl and install on metering plate. After getting car running and checking sight plugs,often very close to not needing further adjustment.
You want the fuel level to be right at bottom of threads in open sight plug.
10-22-18, 08:22 PM
#4
After checking a YouTube video, it made a very good point. In order to lower the float with the car off. I would first need to remove some fuel from the bowl for the float to actually drop. So I used a small hose to get a little gas out of the bowls to then be able to lower the float some.
After this i was able to get some adjustment. Definitely not perfect, but close enough to see if the car would start. That it did. But I believe in order to set them correctly now, I will have to pull the carb off and set the floats and idle adjustment needles to base before trying to tune any further.
also, I have a Holley return style regulator on the car. Holds a steady 5 PSI of fuel.
After this i was able to get some adjustment. Definitely not perfect, but close enough to see if the car would start. That it did. But I believe in order to set them correctly now, I will have to pull the carb off and set the floats and idle adjustment needles to base before trying to tune any further.
also, I have a Holley return style regulator on the car. Holds a steady 5 PSI of fuel.
10-22-18, 09:12 PM
#5
What I used to do is take the float bowl off the carb and hold it up side down. Then adjust the float until is was level in the float bowl. That would get them close enough to make fine adjustments with the bowl back on the carb. Also found that the clear plastic plugs made this process allot easier because you could adjust the floats while the car was running. Once the float was where you wanted it, put the brass plugs back in. I think I saw some after market float bowls that have glass site plugs like a Nikki to make this process even easier.
From my experience, Holleys like 7psi otherwise they run out of fuel at wide open throttle.
Moar....Holley makes several sizes of needle and seat and typically the larger ones are used for racing.
From my experience, Holleys like 7psi otherwise they run out of fuel at wide open throttle.
Moar....Holley makes several sizes of needle and seat and typically the larger ones are used for racing.
10-23-18, 10:35 AM
#6
What I used to do is take the float bowl off the carb and hold it up side down. Then adjust the float until is was level in the float bowl. That would get them close enough to make fine adjustments with the bowl back on the carb. Also found that the clear plastic plugs made this process allot easier because you could adjust the floats while the car was running. Once the float was where you wanted it, put the brass plugs back in. I think I saw some after market float bowls that have glass site plugs like a Nikki to make this process even easier.
From my experience, Holleys like 7psi otherwise they run out of fuel at wide open throttle.
Moar....Holley makes several sizes of needle and seat and typically the larger ones are used for racing.
From my experience, Holleys like 7psi otherwise they run out of fuel at wide open throttle.
Moar....Holley makes several sizes of needle and seat and typically the larger ones are used for racing.
Now that I have messed with it enough. I am definitely removing the bowls to set them back at "zero". Otherwise I think I would never get them set perfectly.
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