I was wondering if anyone knew what generic kit to buy for the racing beat holley?

Its from a ported 4 hole 13b. I know its like a 600 or 650.

What would be different between an off the shelf holley and a rb holley?

How hard would it be to "boost prep" an rb holley, for use with a hat.

Thanks, Drew...

 

If it's a vacuum secondary, it'll be real hard. Under boost your secondaries won't open. As far as a rebuild kit goes, it *should* use just the basic rebuild kit for a holley.
There's really not much to boost prepping a Holley. Head over to turbomustangs.com and look in their carb section. There is a sticky there for boost prepping holley double pumpers.

 

u'll need the model # of the carb and use a holley rebuild kit for that model. the one i used when i did my engine was a universal kit and found out the hard way, make sure u use the right gasket between the plate and body. i used the wrong one to start with. with the engine running, it was like the floats were overflowing.

 

Well, there isnt a number on the carb that matches any holley model. Thats the only reason I was wondering...

I know the 4150 o-rings for the needle and seats worked good. Its a non double pumper, a vacuum secondary 600? I believe. I took off the rod from the secondary vacume diaphram, and put a screw in it for mechanical secondarys.

Well its still intact, it worked great before I let it sit. So I will know if the gaskets are wrong.


I believe it already had brass floats, I cannot remember though... humm...


Thanks...

 

Can you find a part # on the air horn?

 

dont have it in my hands at the moment, but I will see what it says.

 

What the hell? This guy is still alive??...I jest...good to see you posting again, 79+80+84_rx-7....I have the carb in my garage, so here are the pics...and I swear it was that way when I got it...





The numbers on the horns are as follows...LIST - 1849....underneath is another set of numbers, but the first character is struck poorly so it could be a "D, "O" as in dog, "0" as in the number zero or "C". If it is a "D", then it says, D627....

 

Between the 2 Holley books I have, the closest I can get to the # posted is an R-1849 or 0-1849. Holley changed thier numbering system because of the wonderful world of computers. If it's the 1849 it is a 550 cfm, 4160 model and takes the 37-119 renew kit, or the 37-112 trick kit. I suggest recommend the trick kit as the blue gaskets will allow multiple dis/re-assemblys.

When you get it torn down, it should have 62 main jets, an 85 (8.5) power valve, and both primary and secondary throttle bores should be 1-1/2".

Hope that helps. If you want to read the stamped #'s better, visit the local coin dealer. They should have a chemical that raises the stampings so you can read them better. Been way to many years since I collected coins as a kid to remember what I used to do that. The second # you've listed needs more digits, unless it is a really old carb.

From the looks of the bottom of it, it may need some work.

Iirc, there is a web site called Hanger 13, Google that, there is a great write up on Holleys in there.