Holley carb from Racing Beat, what rebuild kit? boost prep?
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Holley carb from Racing Beat, what rebuild kit? boost prep?
I was wondering if anyone knew what generic kit to buy for the racing beat holley?
Its from a ported 4 hole 13b. I know its like a 600 or 650.
What would be different between an off the shelf holley and a rb holley?
How hard would it be to "boost prep" an rb holley, for use with a hat.
Thanks, Drew...
Its from a ported 4 hole 13b. I know its like a 600 or 650.
What would be different between an off the shelf holley and a rb holley?
How hard would it be to "boost prep" an rb holley, for use with a hat.
Thanks, Drew...
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If it's a vacuum secondary, it'll be real hard. Under boost your secondaries won't open. As far as a rebuild kit goes, it *should* use just the basic rebuild kit for a holley.
There's really not much to boost prepping a Holley. Head over to turbomustangs.com and look in their carb section. There is a sticky there for boost prepping holley double pumpers.
There's really not much to boost prepping a Holley. Head over to turbomustangs.com and look in their carb section. There is a sticky there for boost prepping holley double pumpers.
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u'll need the model # of the carb and use a holley rebuild kit for that model. the one i used when i did my engine was a universal kit and found out the hard way, make sure u use the right gasket between the plate and body. i used the wrong one to start with. with the engine running, it was like the floats were overflowing.
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Well, there isnt a number on the carb that matches any holley model. Thats the only reason I was wondering...
I know the 4150 o-rings for the needle and seats worked good. Its a non double pumper, a vacuum secondary 600? I believe. I took off the rod from the secondary vacume diaphram, and put a screw in it for mechanical secondarys.
Well its still intact, it worked great before I let it sit. So I will know if the gaskets are wrong.
I believe it already had brass floats, I cannot remember though... humm...
Thanks...
I know the 4150 o-rings for the needle and seats worked good. Its a non double pumper, a vacuum secondary 600? I believe. I took off the rod from the secondary vacume diaphram, and put a screw in it for mechanical secondarys.
Well its still intact, it worked great before I let it sit. So I will know if the gaskets are wrong.
I believe it already had brass floats, I cannot remember though... humm...
Thanks...
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What the hell? This guy is still alive??...I jest...good to see you posting again, 79+80+84_rx-7....I have the carb in my garage, so here are the pics...and I swear it was that way when I got it...
The numbers on the horns are as follows...LIST - 1849....underneath is another set of numbers, but the first character is struck poorly so it could be a "D, "O" as in dog, "0" as in the number zero or "C". If it is a "D", then it says, D627....
The numbers on the horns are as follows...LIST - 1849....underneath is another set of numbers, but the first character is struck poorly so it could be a "D, "O" as in dog, "0" as in the number zero or "C". If it is a "D", then it says, D627....
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#8
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Between the 2 Holley books I have, the closest I can get to the # posted is an R-1849 or 0-1849. Holley changed thier numbering system because of the wonderful world of computers. If it's the 1849 it is a 550 cfm, 4160 model and takes the 37-119 renew kit, or the 37-112 trick kit. I suggest recommend the trick kit as the blue gaskets will allow multiple dis/re-assemblys.
When you get it torn down, it should have 62 main jets, an 85 (8.5) power valve, and both primary and secondary throttle bores should be 1-1/2".
Hope that helps. If you want to read the stamped #'s better, visit the local coin dealer. They should have a chemical that raises the stampings so you can read them better. Been way to many years since I collected coins as a kid to remember what I used to do that. The second # you've listed needs more digits, unless it is a really old carb.
From the looks of the bottom of it, it may need some work.
Iirc, there is a web site called Hanger 13, Google that, there is a great write up on Holleys in there.
When you get it torn down, it should have 62 main jets, an 85 (8.5) power valve, and both primary and secondary throttle bores should be 1-1/2".
Hope that helps. If you want to read the stamped #'s better, visit the local coin dealer. They should have a chemical that raises the stampings so you can read them better. Been way to many years since I collected coins as a kid to remember what I used to do that. The second # you've listed needs more digits, unless it is a really old carb.
From the looks of the bottom of it, it may need some work.
Iirc, there is a web site called Hanger 13, Google that, there is a great write up on Holleys in there.
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