Paradox

iTrader: (1)

just put a racing beat prepped Holley 600 onto my '84 GS (black) Rx7 and have a few Questions.

first, there was a golden colored cable coming from the front of the carb on the pics i have from the member i bought it from, however i dont see where this could be going?

also, when i tried starting it up i noticed a bit of gas on the edge of the carb after just having the key in the "ACC" position. i am currently using a -SE pump, but have a Holley Red to use aswell. i had the air filter off just for testing. i dont have the instructions that usually come from racing beat and ive never put a carb on before, so im just playing it by ear.

also a little off subject, but if i want to replace my alternator belts, and i have the dual alt. pulley... far as i know these never came on stock FBs..... so what belt do i use? anyone know a part #?

here's a pic which will probably help (this is of the previous owner of the carb's car, not mine) i should have some pics of mine up very soon.

thanks!

- Murray

Paradox

iTrader: (1)

another Question about the line to activate the OMP. i cant for the life of me get this to work with any freeplay, tried it upside down, bent backwards, etc. is there something i'm doing wrong? here's a pic of how i best figured to have it in place, but it just rubs up against the coolant hardpipe and only has a bit of play, i guess i could just bent the hell out of it but i'd rather not force it if its supposed to fit another way(?)

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

1. If the SE pump is the high pressure FI pump, you will need a low pressure, return type fpr. You would be better of getting the carter or holley pump for a carb and a low pressure non-return fpr.

2. The copper tube is the heat riser that pulls the choke off. Get it as close or onto the exhaust manifold as you can.

3. OMP rod, keep bending until you get it right, or go pre-mix.

With a low pressure pump, you may find your leaks disappear. Keep in mind that if you continue to use a hp pump on the carb, you could damage it internally. Also get a fuel pressure gauge and mount it to the extra port on the fpr, no point in trying to tune until you have the right fuel pressure.

Paradox

iTrader: (1)

wow, first post and you answered just about everything i needed to know. much thanks!

as for the pump, yes i know for the SE pump i should be using a return style regulator, but i thought i'd give this a shot til i can find some fittings for the holley pump. will i end up with flooding problems with a non return style if i try that tho?

the choke isnt something im too worried about, im not even using it. but the tube coming out of that is it just a copper thermostat basically?

as for the OMP rod. i was ready to bend it before but just didnt want to if i didnt have to.

i've actually already got a fuel pressure gauge too, this worked fine before on a 86 13 6-port, so i doubt im going to have to change much for my 85 13b engine.

much thanks trochoid. i'll see how things go next im working on the car. i started cranking it over earlier briefly but was worried about fuel leaks so i gave up for today.

james hull

I also have the Holley setup, but do not know what the fuel pressure should be. I do have a regulstor, but no return line. Should I plumb in a return line? Should I do so before or after the regulator??
Thanks,
Jim

Elysian

i'm running a puralator 4-7psi 32gph fuel pump with my holley 600 and 6 port street port

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

I thought Racing Beat only prepped the 465 carbs ...... I may be wrong....

Paradox

iTrader: (1)

nope, there's RB 600's for the 13b 6-port engines

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Holleys are a deadhead carb. Meaning no fuel return line. Gee I wonder why, how many old V8's have a return line to the tank. If one has a hp FI pump, it will need an fpr with a return to reduce pressure and keep the pump from burning out. The fuel flowing through the hp pump, helps cool it. Especially those that are externally mounted.

I highly recommend getting one of the Holley tuning books. A good basic understanding of how and why the carb works, makes tuning musch easier. I have 3 and am still learning. A wideband, with datalogging helps immensely.

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

the holley 600 is also for the sp 13b. as for all the holley's, they require fuel pressure of 6lbs. the 465's are for stock port 12a engines.

pbrx7

i ran a deadhead pump to a low pressure reg and and i didnt work out so well. ended going back to the efi pump in the tank and getting a higher qaulity reg and running a return. deadhead pump was noisy and pressure always flucuated. now the pressure is rock solid. as far as the omp, i didnt have much faith in rb setup with the holley so i ended up going premix. good luck.

Paradox

iTrader: (1)

i've taken off the GSL-SE pump and got fittings for the Holley Pump to put that on. however when i was trying to crank over the car today i noticed not much fuel is going down into the bowl of the carb, but when i removed the SE pump a crapload of fuel came pouring out of the hose coming from the carb.

im still getting leaks around the carb aswell. thinkin' i missed something during the install. speaking of which, anyone know where this gasket is supposed to go?

85TIIDEVIL

iTrader: (2)

That gasket is used between the pump and your frame or wherever you mount the pump to reduce noise when the pump is on and running.

Paradox

iTrader: (1)

thanks! ya, that makes sense.

i'm gonna have to get ahold of a Holley manual or the RB instructions to install this, figure i have everything right but something is just out of whack. the car just refuses to turn over even now that i can see it is spraying gas.

any suggestions would be appreciated....

85TIIDEVIL

iTrader: (2)

Hook up the holley pump and adjust the pressure to the right setting... then see what happens.

The Holley should of came with directions and it will show you which port on the regulator is for a return... then hook it up the stock return line on ur RX which will send the gas back to the tank.

Also, if you are STILL having problems getting started, the two wires that are supplying power and ground to the pump... if you follow them they will go into the underside of the floor and into the compartment under the rear drivers side bin. You can splice in a switch to cut fuel on the power wire and mount it in the bin. It'll help starting your motor and not flooding it by shutting off the pump and allowing the gas in the Holley fuel bowl to get you started and running... then you can switch it back on once u are running. It CERTIANLY helps with my carb set-up.

Paradox

iTrader: (1)

ok finally! after 3 months of trying EFI systems, pulling out my hair with that, then finding a holley for a good price it just started up and holy stink is it loud with open pacesetter headers!! lol

i'm still getting minor leaks around the base of the carb, i dont think its the gasket at the base since that looked in good shape, i actually cant really tell where its leaking... maybe a rebuild is in order, right now its at about 5psi

everythings closed today because of canada day so i couldnt find a Holley manual, but can anyone point me out as to where the idle adjustment and mixture screws are?

i'm just glad to have it running after so long messing with everything, cant wait to get it all together and take it for a spin!

Paradox

iTrader: (1)

here's a few pics, the top of the air cleaner was kind of bent during shipping

i also started painting the engine bay while i was changing everything around, thinkin' im going to keep everything black on this beast

Paradox

iTrader: (1)

^ still have some questions about holley tuning for the mixture and idle

FB II

yo, how did you end up getting it to crank? just drop the fuel pressure?

Paradox

iTrader: (1)

i used the holley pump at the right fuel pressure and messed with the timing a bit, she fired right up.

drove it fine for a few days, but now i cant get the damn fuel bowls to stop leaking... thinkin' i have a stuck float but it doesnt want to go back to where it was before no matter how hard i try.. argh