HighBeam Lever Malfunction
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Maryland
HighBeam Lever Malfunction
I am the new proud owner of a 1985 RX-7 GSL-SE and am trying to get it to pass inspection. The guy at the garage said I need to fix the HighBeam switch on the left hand side of the steering column.
So what's wrong with it is that when the lever is pulled in towards the driver, so as to flash the highbeams, they work. But, when the lever is pushed forward to keep the HighBeams locked on...the headlights go out completely. Other than that, though, all of the switches work fine.
I went to the junkyard to see if the switches on another car worked differently, to see if it was mechanical or maybe wiring related. They maneuvered the same, so I'm guessing there is so loose wiring? Any help would be magnificent so I can really get this thing on the road.
Oh and one more ting. I am trying to replace the hydraulics on the back hatch to keep it from falling on my head every time I reach in there. I got two replacements from a car in the junkyard that are aftermarket and awesome for 10 bucks. Problem is, I can't get the old ones off! They must be crimped around the ball because i can't wiggle em or pull them off! What do i do?
Thanks, you all have been more than helpful.
**10 bucks says Longduck has a reply to this post within the first three responses.
So what's wrong with it is that when the lever is pulled in towards the driver, so as to flash the highbeams, they work. But, when the lever is pushed forward to keep the HighBeams locked on...the headlights go out completely. Other than that, though, all of the switches work fine.
I went to the junkyard to see if the switches on another car worked differently, to see if it was mechanical or maybe wiring related. They maneuvered the same, so I'm guessing there is so loose wiring? Any help would be magnificent so I can really get this thing on the road.
Oh and one more ting. I am trying to replace the hydraulics on the back hatch to keep it from falling on my head every time I reach in there. I got two replacements from a car in the junkyard that are aftermarket and awesome for 10 bucks. Problem is, I can't get the old ones off! They must be crimped around the ball because i can't wiggle em or pull them off! What do i do?
Thanks, you all have been more than helpful.
**10 bucks says Longduck has a reply to this post within the first three responses.
Full Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 176
Likes: 1
From: Langley, BC, Canada
Happened to me too.
Open up the switch and play with it a bit until you figure out how it works. You'll see the contacts are worn out and the switch no longer causes them to touch thus turning off all your lights. You could probably replace the contacts, but I was able to just file down the plastic stopper so the lever moves farther now and cause the contacts to make a good connection again. I also took some fine emerycloth and sanded down the all contacts a tiny bit to clean them up for a better connection.
Its a common thing in older vehicles where all the power to the headlights runs through the switch rather than a relay like newer cars. Same thing is happening to my '80 toyota pickup right now too.
Open up the switch and play with it a bit until you figure out how it works. You'll see the contacts are worn out and the switch no longer causes them to touch thus turning off all your lights. You could probably replace the contacts, but I was able to just file down the plastic stopper so the lever moves farther now and cause the contacts to make a good connection again. I also took some fine emerycloth and sanded down the all contacts a tiny bit to clean them up for a better connection.
Its a common thing in older vehicles where all the power to the headlights runs through the switch rather than a relay like newer cars. Same thing is happening to my '80 toyota pickup right now too.
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 3,584
Likes: 542
From: Phoenix, AZ
Whew - just under the wire! (3 posts!)
As the others have pointed out - the switch mechanism itself is very straight-forward once you get it apart. The steering column covers can be removed by 3x cross-head screws along the bottom edge, and then you'll be able to see the switch mechanisms. If you can't work on it from there, you can remove the steering wheel and then slide the switch mechanisms off the steering shaft.
By cleaning up these contacts, you'll be able to get them to work without too much hassle, but the long-term fix might be to just do the headlight 'relay' switch that takes all the high current out of the steering gear switches - this will make your lights much brighter, as well.
On the rear hatch shocks, the ***** are connected to the rods and will need to be removed as an assembly. On the part attached to the car body, you'll need a 12mm box-end wrench to unscrew the ball, and then it's obvious to remove the connectors on the glass. Make this job a bit easier by finding a 1x2 'firring strip' or similar wood to hold the hatch in the right height position as you thread the new ***** into place. On my replacement shocks, they included new ball sockets, but your junkyard replacements may not have these.
Good luck, and reply back if you have any problems,
As the others have pointed out - the switch mechanism itself is very straight-forward once you get it apart. The steering column covers can be removed by 3x cross-head screws along the bottom edge, and then you'll be able to see the switch mechanisms. If you can't work on it from there, you can remove the steering wheel and then slide the switch mechanisms off the steering shaft.
By cleaning up these contacts, you'll be able to get them to work without too much hassle, but the long-term fix might be to just do the headlight 'relay' switch that takes all the high current out of the steering gear switches - this will make your lights much brighter, as well.
On the rear hatch shocks, the ***** are connected to the rods and will need to be removed as an assembly. On the part attached to the car body, you'll need a 12mm box-end wrench to unscrew the ball, and then it's obvious to remove the connectors on the glass. Make this job a bit easier by finding a 1x2 'firring strip' or similar wood to hold the hatch in the right height position as you thread the new ***** into place. On my replacement shocks, they included new ball sockets, but your junkyard replacements may not have these.
Good luck, and reply back if you have any problems,
I had the same problem with my highbeams then I turned pushed the lever forward and jiggled it back and forth and they randomly came on and I haven't had a problem since. Not a fix but they work.
Lives on the Forum
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 11,359
Likes: 14
From: Grand Rapids Michigan
Here you guys go.... I've already done the work and took the time to document it. Plan on spending an hour or so to get it done, and about $5 at Autozone for the contact cleaner. This is a step by step instruction on the easiest (in my opinion) way to fix this issue. Hope this helps.....
https://www.rx7club.com//showthread....ight+headaches
https://www.rx7club.com//showthread....ight+headaches
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,058
Likes: 0
From: Yokosuka
When you take the switch off the column, there is a snap piece in the middle on the top of the switch. You'll need to lift up on it to be able to pull it off.. It is hard to see.
I just scraped the carbon buildup off the contacts in the switch with a precision screwdriver after taking the switch completely apart. Worked well, but took some of the contact material with. I like this relay idea, however..
I just scraped the carbon buildup off the contacts in the switch with a precision screwdriver after taking the switch completely apart. Worked well, but took some of the contact material with. I like this relay idea, however..
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