I need help with removing the top clutch master cylinder nut (85 GSL SE). The factory and Haynes manuals make the job look easy, but I can't seem get a tool on the nut. Between braces and master cylinder rod inside the firewall, there is not enough room to fit and turn a wrench. Closest fit seems to be a deep dish 12 mm socket. Is there an easy way to do this?

Thanks

 

I think you need one of those solid wrench with an angle or a socket with a twisting joint.

I forget what they call the wrench but it's got curves on both sides.

 

I modified a short well 12mm socket specifically for this job. I simply drilled out the inside so the stud could fit in deeper; right up against the extension. It acts more like a deepwell socket and works for me. The job still is one of the less fun ones on '85 and older Mazdas.

 

I recently ran into the same problem and did this.



just welded a screwdriver to my 12mm

 

It's called a 45 degree deep offset box end wrench. (The tool I could not remember the name of. I looked it up at Sears Craftsman.

 

i just use a really long extension it works every time ive done it twice. since ive had the car

 

That sounds like the best way 2 go. It's been 21 years since I changed one

 

+1 on this being the hardest nut to replace. Luckily my BroInLaw had a kabillion Snap-On universals/exts to try, it was still a b!tch to be upside down in the footwell area taking it out.

 

I used a deep socket and long extension.

 

1/4" drive ratchet, with an extension. Most important part, the 5$ swivel bought at Autozone which you attach right behind the socket. I did the removal and replacement in under 15 minutes with witnesses to prove it. Nothing to it if you have the right tools set up.

The only other thing working to my advantage was that the car was way up on jackstands while my buddies were assisting with an engine transplant. That way I didn't have to stand on my head to do the job. Another option (other than raising the car) might be to dig a hole to stand in while you do it.

 

I think the other hardest nut is the wierd upside down one on the 12a aab valve.
That took forever to figure out how to swap. I would never try it again myself.

 

for the clutch master nut, th etop one of course, i used the open end of a 12mm wrench. i was able to get small turns and it felt as if it took forever because some of the threads on the studs were flattened. this probably happened when the car was built. once the master was out, i ran a die down the threads of both studs and install was as smooth as butter. the top nut i tightened slowly but the amount of turns it took to lock it down were a lot less than the removal due to the flattened threads. be paitent and try differnt approaches, mehtods, and angles. you'll find the one that works the best for you. i think i even considered notching some metal down there somewhere so i could use the box end of the wrench, but i can remember where exactly and would not give the advice to do so because i did not end up doing so. although it may be an option for you.

 

i unscrewed the clutch rod from the pedal, took 2 seconds after that

 

Long extension is the best ide like everyone said, no cutting or modifying required. I just did mine a few weeks ago.

 

ftw, try this, and its the best imo.

 

Tips about removing the clutch master cyl:

- Take out the driver's seat so that you can lay on the floor and get some room
- Get a mechanic's light in there. More light = better
- The clutch pedal rod is held in place with a c-clip. It's not the easiest thing to take out, but removing it gives MUCH better access to the upper bolt. I'm not exactly sure how I did three master cyls without taking this rod out, but on the last one I did I took the rod out and the job became MUCH easier.
- It helps to have a variety of sockets to choose from. I ended up using a medium-depth socket... I had one deeper and I had one shallower, so I really don't know how different companies market their sockets. The problem is getting the ratchet in there. A universal swivel sometimes helps, or if you can get a wrench that has an offset box end, that would work too. We didn't have one of those so we made do with what we had.

Just take your time. I think honestly that's the hardest part to get out. The only possible exceptions would be trying to remove the clutch slave or carb with the rat's nest still in place, those are royal buggers too.

Carl actually bent a wrench for me (he heated it up and bent it 45* in the middle) to help with removing the carb with the nest still in place, and for at least one of the clutch master removals I used that. Unfortunately I don't know where my bent 12mm went, so I can't use it anymore.

If you have access to a torch/welding equipment, then the "socket on a screwdriver" or bent 12mm wrench are both great ways to do it.

Oh... and don't forget anti-sieze on the studs and bolts when you put it back together. Never assume you won't have to do it again.

Jon

 

All you fat boys, remove the front seat. It just makes it easier. Oh yeah, that includes old guys too like Doc, Ray etc etc.

 

Beat ya to it wacky - look up

Jon

 

Thanks for the help, lots of good advice. To make the job harder a previous owner installed a Chapman alarm system which had a long metal tube that bolted to the dash under the steering column and transitioned through the fire wall right next to the top nut. Needless to say the alarm has been removed and trashed. Also the previous owner installed a set of after market pedal pads which have sharp screws sticking out the back. With all the advice the job should now be much smoother (and cause much less cursing).

Thanks
Mark_1

 

shiet but I bet you use your moderator skills

 

extension FTW!
only took me 30 seconds to get mine out...the guy that had my car before me didnt tighten the nuts...lol guess he had the same problem

 

Just went out and tried a few of the suggestions. No joy. My problem is the space is too confined to turn the tool. The best method for me looks like the rod removal suggestion. Can someone elaborate on how this is done? Looks like the lock nut (item "C" in the FSM illustration) is loosened, then secured, while turing rod (item "D") counter clockwise using vice grips? Is there a better way to remove the rod?

Mark_1

 

Well.. I just took this out of my car yesterday and it took me about 5 minutes using a regular 12 wrench with the open end. Good luck bro!

 

I am amazed at how many people have done or are doing this recently. I too have to pull mine, to put a new kit in. Is leaking inside .
Later,
Bill

 

pull the push rod for the master cylinder and then go get yourself a line wrench takes care of the long socket and ratchet i did it in like 5 min when i did my car