Ok, first of all I am not new to rotaries just the forums; that said, let me pick your brains on this engine plan!


Engine Block: '92 13B cosmo: 1/2 inch studded block, 3mm ionetti seals, enlarged oil galleys, 3 window bearings, balanced rotors, street port, and rx8 eccentric shaft.

Ignition: Electromotive crank trigger ignition, MSD digital7 11mm plug wires (6in length) Individual coils.

Fuel system: Areomotive A1000 submerged pump, summit fuel cell, russel hard anodized fittings and stainless braided fuel lines, Snow performance methanol injection, Areomotive EFI regulator, and a Be Cool fuel cooler.

Induction: EXtreme Rotaries 4bbl (eight injector) TBI system, Camden 9 in supercharger (15 psi).

Exhuast: RB Dual exhaust system (maybe, wish it was stainless).

Cooling: Griffin scirocco radiator, Rotorsports dual oil coolers, Be cool fuel cooler, Black Magic electric fan and custom shroud.

Plumbing: Everything will be Russell hard anodized black fittings, and Pro flex HTE hose.

Details: engine will be satin black on the cast iron bits dull aluminum on the aluminum ones. ITS ALL GOING INTO A BONESTOCK 1ST GEN!!! God rest the clucth and transmission.....When they break theyll be replaced with hardcore parts too.
Its all funded by my job! US AIRFORCE aircraft mech!!!

 

bump

 

Sounds like a pretty sweet setup to me. Your gonna need a clutch and flywheel setup for that beast. The RB light steel flywheel is probably the best bet. Go for the RB heavy duty clutch or something like it such as a centerforce. For the trans, your going to need a TII tranny for sure. As for the rear end, i'm not exactly sure. While your at it, you should look at those 25+ year old brakes and give them some love with all that power your gonna be putting through it. A set of hawk HPS pads and some DOT stainless braided brake lines should be fine for street use. The stock FB suspension leaves alot on the table, a new set of bushings and a set of respeed coilovers will help you out alot there. Don't put all your eggs in one basket(or engine rather) If you haven't built the motor yet, hold off on the supercharger and the meth injection til the motor is broken in and your suspension and brakes are up to speed. Theres my two cents on the idea. The motor setup does sound sweet though. Good luck.

 

Actually 4, port many of the engine parts are already purchased and being played with at the moment, but boost is a must! And if you boost it, INJECT METHANOL IN IT!!!!

Btw, lol those 25 plus year old brakes are scraping right now!!! I replace the pads for now, lol.

 

Keep ideas coming.......first gens deserve motors like this.

 

Ianetti seals are fine, but there are alternative ceramic seals out there. I'd go with OEM 2 piece steel/iron myself. The 9" Camden is a bit large and ungainly. You're better off with a 7". If you're going with a 13B-RE (this is what we call the Cosmo engine you mentioned) why not do a turbo? They come stock with them, but ditch the twins and go larger single. I'd go turbo if I had access to a 13B-RE, that's for sure. The SCs are especially great on older 4 port 12As and 13Bs that have no provisions for injectors, but many people have mixed and matched parts to get what they want, so let the opinions flood this thread. Maybe we'll come up with a viable solution for you.

Wait, have the Ianetti seals already been purchased?

 

No jeff, the 340 a piece seals havent been purchased yet.

 

Also, I wondered why everyone kept calling my motor an RE! I was like "what does that mean?", and they were all like "Uhhh, Rotary Engine???" to which I kicked them out of the garage. Its a cosmo dammit.

 

Oh, also, the TBI system is a throttle body with 8 injector pods in it, so the manifolds dont need provisions for injectors....i'll see if i can get pics

 

 

never mind, pics dont work

 

Don't the fuel injected motors have injector holes in the center housing? Or is it just the gsl-se 13b?

 

My 6-Port S4 Motor has two injectors in the intake manifold and two in the center iron.

 

Ah, see i'm a carbed guy so i dont know much about the FI engines.

 

Ok

 

What do you mean by Electromotive crank trigger ignition, MSD Digital 7, and individual coils?
If you are running an Electromotive ignition system, you would be running the XDI system and wouldn't need anything but the XDI box, the individual coils, and plug wires.

What are you running for fuel injection?
Porting?
And I'm with Jeff... put a turbo on it.
Studding the block with a supercharger is a waste of time.

 

I actually just have a CD 7 from previous car, thought about making it work with the system only for CD (capacative discharge), basically because it cost 700 bucks a year ago and i dont wanna throw it away.

For the fuel injection, likely a TEC3

Too many turbo motors.....I wanna try something different, no offense. I reckon ill deal with it if its a turd.

 

bumpity bump bump........any another flaws besides supercharger being too large? What about the cooling system? Thats where the most inexperience on my part is.


Ok Looking into turbochargers now, but i dont want a all topend motor, more of a midrange. Any ideas on compound turbocharging? I like the power band of the 13BREW stock, just not the NET. Is there maybe a way to make a better sequential turbo setup than stock?

Just thinking, but according to users, despite a radical 48,000rpm supercharger, the power is like 200ish which......sorta sucks. the motor is being prepped for 400+

Perhaps multiple centrifigals?

 

Good:
1. Meth injection to avoid detonation.
2. Multiple injectors to avoid using the Bosch 1680cc secondaries that have marginal atomization.

Bad:
1. Aeromotive fuel pump. They're not really made for steady state operation. A Bosch -044 is a much better pump for most applications. It has OEM reliability.
2. Twin oil coolers. I'm not that familiar with them, but a single oil cooler packages better in an FB.
3. Iannetti seals. They're great parts, but they were designed for NA motors. They can be used in boosted motors with great results, but they will fracture and destroy a lot of expensive stuff if you detonate. I know because it happened to me. Use the stock seals (as Jeff 20B suggested) until your tune is perfected. Then swap in the Iannettis if you really want that last bit of efficiency and wear resistance.
4. Clutch. You probably won't break the tranny 'cause the clutch is going to slip as soon as you touch the gas. You need an upgraded clutch (and transmission). When your original clutch slips, it'll overheat and self-destruct in short order.

As for the boost response, I'm running a T4 divided turbine GT35R (A-Spec modded) with a short tubular exhaust manifold and twin wastegates. I make full boost (11 PSI) by 3200 RPM. If you're driving your car hard, you want to keep the revs above 3500 RPM anyway.

Other turbo advantages:
1. If you can easily change the boost level.
2. The blow-off valve makes a cool pssst! sound that scares other people at stop lights.
3. The turbo quiets the exhast, which is a great thing for a rotary car.

I have an 'RE in my car. Check it out:

http://sites.google.com/site/elwoodsturbofb/

 

Jesus, Elwood. Everything I want to do in a nutshell. Performance numbers?

Wow seriously detailed too. Im super impressed.

 

Thanks.

I dyno'd at 327 RWHP @ 9 PSI on a Mustang. I'm told it's very accurate. I've since upped the boost to 11 PSI, so I should be somewhere around 354 RWHP. This would equate to approx. 400 flywheel HP. In an FB, it feels very nice.