Wompa164

iTrader: (4)

Refer to this thread:

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=173971

It's been getting worse.

Yesterday I took it for a ride. As I was pulling out in the intersection, I floored it - it's just how I drive, because my car is slow as ***** anyway, so no one can tell I'm flooring it.

As soon as I put my pedal to the metal, my car starts jerking like crazy. My tach is shooting from 1k to 4k and going all around, and my speed has dropped to about 10mph, and I'm flooring it. My car is jerking back and forth violently. I'm positive it wasn't my clutch work - I've been driving it a long time, and I know the difference, heh. I'm stuck in the middle of this intersection, my car almost dead in the middle, and then I let off the gas and my car lets off the loudest backfire / gunshot ever. It seriously sounded like a fifty caliber sniper rifle was shot out of my car, amplified by 10x sound.

This happens about 5 more times the rest of the night. Also, now my speedometer needle jitters back and forth VERY quickly. It stays 'constant' in that it points to more or less one speed, but it's visibly jittering.

Anyways, how long until this junker dies? Anything I can do to make it go quicker?

Oh yeah, I think emissions testing is soon.

Also, if I didn't floor it, the problem didn't happen. If I SLOWLY let it go to 3k, then shift, repeat, etc, it wouldn't happen (Trying to emulate how my dad drives). He refuses to acknowledge something is wrong, because it never happens when he's in the car (Referring to how he drives above).

I also forgot: Half the time when you go to start the car now (Ok, more than half.. 3/4), you have to spend multiple tries trying to start it. When you turn the ignition, nothing happens except this extremely loud grinding noise. Like when you grind gears, except louder and higher frequency. He says there's nothing that can be done, just deal with it.

He also hasn't changed any fluids in the car in over a year. He really loves his car...

The tachometer stopped working today. When you insert the key and turn the ignition, it shoots up to 4000rpm like it normally does, but instead of going back down and normalizing itself at 1000, it stays at 0. It just stopped working in the middle of my drive, too.

NanaimoRx-7

No Tach = Burnt Ignitor

AdrenalifeRX7

Either that or change the damn plugs.

Winnipeg85GSL

Possible sputtering problems:
1) Clogged fuel filter
2) Ignition
3) Failing engine

Not changing the fluids for over a year is a ver bad idea. Help this car out and change the oil, checkthe coolant level, change the tranny fluid, etc. It wouldn't take much time and the car should run great.

Basically, if you changed the fluids, got a new cap/rotor/wires/plugs, a new fuel filter and air filter, the car would be doing alright.

NanaimoRx-7

Link doesn't work. Might be time to swap up to an electrnic distributor as the old points system can be quite the hassel. I'd say it was a trailing ignotor on the way out that's now completly dead. The wiggly speedometer has nothing to do with engine performance, unless the car was actually surging back and forth. Try lubing the cable first...if not the gears inside the speedo are probably worn. I had a needle with a 10mph wiggle, swapped out the spedometer with one from a '79 no more problems.

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

Try the simple things first, like these guys have been saying:

1. Fuel filter.... I'm a big pusher of this because it's less than 5 bucks and less than 5 mins of work for something so vital, and an easy thing to knock off the list
2. Air filter... not as cheap, twice as fast to change, just as vital
3. oil and filter... since the oil is mixed in with the gas, it's absolutely manditory that you change it often! I change it more often than my piston car just for that exact reason
4. distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs and plug wires - these things can cause so many fuckups (excuse me) that it's not funny.. and for the price, if you can't remember the last time you did it, do it now! It's the most expensive of the above, but definitely worth it, since compared to alot of other parts and problems, it's still cheap
5. check your fuel delivery... remember if you floor it, your carb opens up to take more air/fuel mixture, but if the fuel isn't there, you run super lean, which could cause your bucking... your fuel pump might need replacing. Just take the fuel hose off at the carb and put it in a bucket. look how fast it flows, or get a pressure tester. Replace the pump if necessary, and if you do get a 7psi rated one and a regulator if you've got the cash, it's worth it.

actually.. for 5 it depends on if you have a 12a or 13b (the link was borken so I coudln't tell) .. if you have a carb (and thus the nice blue air filter canister) do what I say, otherwise, ask someone else.

That's all I can think of. Now go and do at least 1-3, and check the other two to see if they need doing. My guess is that 1-3 will help, but the problem probably lies in 5, or to a lesser extent 4.

Jon

Cody

Doing the regular maintenance can't hurt....

But the deal is that something is sticking in your carb. My car will do that from time to time....what it is....is it ALMOST choking itself out with fuel. Like 1/2 second before it floods. Or...hmm....I suppose it can be too much air, not enough fuel.

I only get it at a stop light, if I just slam the gas pedal down. I also have the mechanical secondaries mod...

But, if you drive it like a grandma (shifting at 3) and it's fine.....its just what I said. Take a peek at the carb, see if any of the linkage is gummed up.

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

tach going up and then when you start it it stays at zero sounds like an SA... If its a 79, check point and such, if its an 80 , an 80 has an external igniter box on the drivers strut tower.

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

its a lean burn problem!!!