Muhammad Syafiq

First i would like to know SA is refer to what? Second thing is i want to buy rx7 1st gen 1982 . So maybe some tipa how to check the car bcoz im buying it scond hand? And how to take care of that car? Help please

7aull

iTrader: (2)

Hello Malaysia!
"SA" traditionally refers to the first 2 yrs of the original RX7, 1979, 1980. The serial number starts with "SA22Cxxxxx", whereas in North America, the updated 1981-85 RX7 is called the "FB" because it's Serial Number on the car begins with "FB...." Now, to add to the confusion, in Japan and other markets (maybe yours?), even this 2nd model (FB) was actually serial numbered as "SA...." as well!
Why? good question. So the 1982 you want to buy would be considered an "FB" RX7 here.

To buy -
well, besides the usual stuff to watch for in any used car, rotaries do need to be looked at for particular problems. Rotaries require lots of oil, so check the engine dip-stick to be sure it is correctly filled. They also require a very healthy COOLING system. Rotaries create a LOT of heat and need excellent cooling. So check the radiator for clean fluid.
-if you can, be sure the car has not been PRE-started before you go drive it. Why? You want the engine to be COLD before you start. How cleanly and easily a rotary starts FROM COLD is an easy way to tell if it is healthy. If a cold engine requires a lot of cranking to start, and when it does, it creates a lot of WHITE smoke, this is a good sign the engine is failing. White smoke means engine coolant is leaking into the motor, which means the water seals have failed. THAT will require the engine to be rebuilt! The _problem_ is, if the engine has been run and is warm, this problem may NOT show up on starting! Even a poor engine, once warm, can start and run with out much smoke, and appear and drive normally. It is only by having sat and cool, where the water can then leak into the motor and generate the white smoke. Once the car is started, the coolant in the motor burns off, and the smoke disappears - until it SITS again and cools down! I hope this makes sense...
-if you can get it to a Mazda dealer, I think it is worth paying to have the mechanics give the engine a COMPRESSION TEST. This requires a special Mazda tool! This can be a _very_ good guide to the health of the motor.

Other things: check for RUST:
-lift sunroof panel, it can rust under the rubber weather seal. Just lift up the seal and look
-open the rear hatch: rust can form at the BOTTOM of the hatch area. Again, lift the weather seal and check the metal. There are 2 drain holes along the bottom of the hatch opening. If they get plugged, water cannot drained it sits there and rusts.
-remove the SPARE tire, be sure there is no rust in the spar tire well.
-check the bottom of the rear fenders and the rear wheel opening - VERY rust-prone!
-put the car on a hoist and check underneath to. Especially ! where the rear suspension arms mount to the floor of the car!
-the tray the battery sits on can hide rust under it - check closely!
-bottom of doors can rust if the water drains were plugged. Check IN side of door bottoms.

Good luck! Great car if you are careful and get one that has been loved!
If you DO buy it-
-change ALL fluids immediately (unless the owner can prove this was just done!!)
-I would advise you to put in NEW coolant hoses
-I would remove the radiator and have it professionally cleaned. This is a critical component to the engine!
-change the fuel filter!!!!!! (and of course, the oil filter)

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

dooshgoosh

7aull has covered everything! Definately make sure the block and headers are cold to touch before its started. And you definetly needto jack it up or get it on a hoist and check for leaks and make sure there is no excessive wear on the chassis rails! Well they are a big problem in new zealand