ok i got into my car the other day and when i went to press the clutch pedel down it just stayed on the floor it gave no pressure. but after me pumping it for like 10 min i was able to get it to the point where i could drive it for about 5 min before it would happen while i was on the road. luckily i was near work and was able to make it there in 3rd gear w/o stoping exccept to park. so i did the same to get home and since i cant drive my car. any thoughts?. o yeah it holds the fluidx fine b/c it is full and has stayed that way for a while. plz help me.

 

Time to replace the master and slave cylinder.

Try bleeding it first though, see if it helps any.

 

don't forget to replace the connecting hose at the same time

 

you can also rebuild them. Autozone sells the kits fairly cheap.

 

Check your master & slave cylinders. It may be time to rebuild them. You can get the rebuild kits at Autozone or Advanced for less than $10 each. I would rebuild them both while you're at it.

 

Yes, and while your there replace the hose with a stainless steel one.

 

anyone want to help me rebuild the master and slave cylinder then? i live in geneva il 60134

 

First check the clutch master cylinder oil level. A lot of times it will leak very slowly and need a top up every few week or so, especially if it sits for a long period of time.

I would then look to replace the slave cylinder on the clutch housing. You can get a brand new one from Victoria British for around $25 to 30. Usually the slave cylinder goes out first. You will need to bleed the stink out of it when you get it installed. It takes a lot to get the air out.

Lastly, look to replace or rebuild the clutch master cylinder or get one from the scrap yard if you can find one.

RXDad

 

The easiest thing to replace is that darn flexihose, which can leak without looking like it leaks. It's only about $10-15, too. Next easiest thing to do is bleed air out of the hydraulic system, which two people can do pretty easy, tho it takes more tries than you might think, but if your singlehanding it then you either need a self-bleeding tit (with an internal ball-check valve) which you can usually get at an autostore, or run a neoprene tube from the bleed tit to a coke bottle half full of fluid.

After that you get to the hard stuff: replace or rebuild the master/slave, which is time-consuming and I find myself wasting too many of my quota of cuss words on that !#$@ slave. It helps to load the master/slave with fluid before you install it.

B

 

well i sold out and took it to the shop apparently a new slave cylinder is what isw in store for me $36 from the store and tehn $88 of labour plus the fing $44 that he charged me of bleeding it today even tho he knew he would need to replace it tommorrow and bleed it again but i dont think that is that bad of price for it do u?

 

D I Y

 

Yes, because you're going to have to do it all over again when the master cylinder goes, just like everyone warned you. Replace both when one fails.

 

Not a bad price at all for him. You took it in the ***.

 

Lazy bum, the worst part of the whole job is the bolts on the bellhousing (for me anyway).

Take the time an learn something new, save the money for go-fast goodies.

=Eric

 

wow you got ripped....... i rebuilt my master for $9 did it in less then an hour... bought a new slave for $24 and paid $25 for labor since....

tryed doing it myself but stripped the bolts so got a shop to deal with my mistake...

 

sry guys that i didn't do it myself but i have really just been focusing on one thing these past two weeks and that is getting evryting i need together for college. the car comes second at the moment. and it will be garaged starting the 24th due to me being at college. also the shop i took it to is the only shop around that will work on rx-7's that are first gens. my normall shop the owner is nice and i have known him for years and he gives me a good price on any work he does.

 

will the slave or master cylindr off of a 12a car work in an se?