well i bled the clutch and the brakes today. adn then drove it about a half mile, and needed to bleed the clutch again, so i did, then drove a got to 2nd gear, and lost all pressure in the system. is their any way to decifer whether its the clutch or the master that needs replacing???

and also, it still felt like there was a vibration in the rear(like before with the axle) but its only upon initial accel, not under braking, or regular acceleration.

thirdly, i put a few cap fulls of oil down the intake over winter, how long can i expect that it will smoke before i need to worry about my engine??

and fourthly, my turn signals dont work, but my hazards do. any ideas?

thanks all!

 

Clutch:
Inspect the clutch slave cylinder and clutch master for leaks above the tranny tranny along with the rubber lines and behind the firewall. I always change them at the same time.

Vibration.
MPH??? how about when changing lanes. It could be your u-joints or axle wheel bearings etc etc.

Oil:
It should burn out within 10 minutes or less. I do the same thing once a month to fumigate my garage and kill all them critters and rats!!!

 

for the turn signals, you should start by taking a test light to the combination switch.

 

Who needs turn signals?

Wacky; I saw his car at a race last fall and helped get his car home. The rear wheel was visibly wobbling, and there was something rubbing or jamming up so bad that the car could barely be moved. I figured the issue would be obvious once he got it apart, but it sounds like everything looks straight. Weird...

 

well it spins straight now, i have a video of it. i may be able to upload it. ill try. any way, it may just be the brakes sticking, or the lsd locking. i need to fix my clutch fixed before i can fix anything.

Kentetsu: do you happen to have a spare master and slave cylinder in good condition?

 

oh, and the turn signals just started working for no reason. but once i make a trip to radioshack and buy a can of contact cleaner, and compressed air, im going to go through the combo switch cleaning procedure as outlined in the archives(thanks Kentetsu)

 

The clutch hydraulics are surprisingly hard to bleed thorougly. Sometimes you must do it several times. Sometimes a speed bleeder works.

 

well i bled the clutch for about a half hour(with my new-ish master) and got no further than it was when it went bad. but i will take into consideration, and see if i can get anything new tomarrow.

 

Cody, I have both a master and slave sitting on my shelves waiting to be installed on my car. I need to pump my clutch up for a minute before I can drive the car, so these parts are needed right now. But if you need them you're welcome to them, because I can pick up replacements when I'm actually ready to do the work.

I also have a vacuum bleeder if you want to give it a try. I don't recall if our clutch lines have the "loops" in them like some cars do, but those loops hold air and its damn near impossible to get it out of those high spots by manual bleeding. I think you need to bring it over for a day if you can drive it that far

 

My donor car was doing exactly that...it was the slave...a rebuild kit cost me less than 10 and took only a few minutes to do. It would lose all pressure when I held the clutch at a stop sign or light. I was losing fluid. Are you? After the rebuild I had trouble getting all the air out. It worked out on it's own after a few bleeds and now is fine. Aggravating, but fine.

 

i havent been loosing fluid unless i was bleeding it. atleast not noticeably

 

Then you're looking at a new master cylinder (same as me)....

 

but i replaced it already.... and its still bad

 

Clutch master......Did you bench bleed it first?

Next same goes for the brake master cylinder, but you can and should bleed it at all the fittings aswell, you may have air trapped there.

My silver rx7 had those issues aswell, we installed a line-lock system and it added lots of extra brake lines to the system. and alot of extra problems

It's hard to see but I blead all the lines around that master cylinder....

 

well the thing is it shouldnt have needed to be bench bled when the car worked, and it just went. then i replaced the master, and had the same symptoms.

 

Usually when a clutch master goes your pedal sticks to the floor. Youll probably notice some clutch fluid leaking into the car.

When your slave cylinder goes the pedal feels fine but youll lose fluid out of the slave.

 

DP

 

i would love to come over, maybe once i get that clutch fixed. i orded the parts from sir dan atkins. and maybe i can bring my diff as well. maybe we can do the suspension then as well. i think i ought to get some poly bushing before i do all of that though, sort of do it all in one foul swoop.ah hell, i could steal my fuel pump and regulator of the other fb, and we could install my weber.



i havent found any loss of fluid, but the pedal sticks to the floor. but if i bleed it enough, it will return, then stick to the floor within like 10 min.`

 

Weird man, very weird.

I think I have a set of rear control arm bushings that I haven't installed yet. Since you're only supposed to use them in the lower links, that leaves me with half a set left over. You're welcome to it if you can use it.