Just got rid of the rats nest, just after i figured out my secondaries were stuck shut. So i did the whole rats nest thing trying to fix my idle because right after i fixed the secondaries the car now doesnt idle at all. IT also seems to sumble on lower rpms. My first thought was, air fuel mixture, so i messed with that, nothing, i messed with the idle speed screw...nothing. So ive come to a brick wall, I just dont know whats going on . Il have mechanical secondaries btw. Im prety sure that the secondaries are fully shutting durring low rpms so im prety sure thats not it.

Btw, after i did the rats nest and fixed the secondaries, the car now does 0-100 in about 10 seconds instead of like 18.

Oh and another question. What vaccum port and what relay do you use for the OD switch?

 

Wow tonnes of help, i seriously search but all i got back were answers about my idle speed screw ect...

Anyways, i messed with the fuel mixture screw and the idle screw and i got it to idle at 1500, which isnt too bad, better than not idleing at all. Btw, where do you get the small belt that you need to use to get rid of the airpump?

 

I have no answers for you man, but wanted to follow your post...

I'm removing my Rats Nest too, and am very interested in a response as well just in case something happens after my removal. Also, I need to know the manufacturer of the belt were supposed to use... the tutorial has a part number, but the auto parts store said that a part number is not enough, they need the manufacturer too.

 

hey where in canada do you live? if near london ontario i can come help a bit. Did you block off the ACV? also did you check for leaks anywhere (just grad a bottle of carb cleaner or something and spray around everything see if you get any engine response... if you do then there's a leak close by)

 

The belt is a "Gates" and your better off getting it from a lawn mower shop since it is a lawn mower belt...

I also found that you need to follow the directions to the letter (eg: what vac port to what line, since all vac ports are not the same.

I completed this about a month ago and it works great. I too have had some idle problems but i adjusted the timing a bit and it is a bit better now.....

If i can help any more let me know.

Jay 1984 FB

 

Rough idle can be caused by improperly adjusted mix screw, but also can be caused by:

- Flooding

- Damaged mixture adjustment screw

- Malfunction of aav.

- Slow flow, clogged idle port

- Clogged main jet

- Idle compensator valve malfunction

- Poor or damaged intake manifold gasket or carburator insulator seal

- Throtle valve closes improperly or does not close

- Malfunction of shutter and coasting valve.

- Broken, worn or disconnected vacuum hose.

 

YA i hope i figure this out.

By the way, it lopes at highway speed and sputters a little bit off acceleration, other than that, it runs like a charm. But im tired of having to drop the car into gear and hammering the gas to get it to go because i dont want it to stall. I just dont understand why it idled so good before i got the secondaries working. It purred at 250 rpms. I know they are closing but its wierd. Sometimes it idles at 2000, sometimes it idles at 1500.

Im going adjust the timing tomorow a little bit. Plus check to see what relay is the proper one for the O/D because my car only kicks into o/d when its like at 110, then it kicks down. Pain in the *** when your trying to get it into overdrive through town. I was thinking of just taking a relay from the rats nest, hooking it up to the carb, then running the switch directly to the one under the shifter, so that it actually does kick out and such.

Do you think i could have damaged anything trying to get the carb secondaries undstuck, they are a little scratched but nothing bad. Nothing stopping them from closing. Anyone want to sell a stock nikki carb?