Thanks. Not sure what the root cause is at this point. I did re-tighten the top hose with the existing plastic washer and from what I can tell it does not leak. The bottom, however, is leaking just as bad as ever, even with the new crush washer.

I observed the leak. Then, I cleaned everything off and jammed a rag between the top and bottom mounts. It seems the leak is isolated to the bottom mount.

Not sure where to begin again, but seems like...
1) Installation requires pipe sealant (I did not use any)
2) Lower hose/fitting is failing
3) Oil cooler cracked (I could not see any evidence of a crack)
4) Lines not tight enough (I have been careful, maybe too careful)

Seamus

 

The trick with new crush washers is to hand tighten, the tighten 1/4 turn with a wrench, start the engine, then slowly tighten until the leak stops, then recheck after the engine has gone through a couple of heat cycles.

If the bung has cracked, the crack can be hard to find sometimes. Clean the area with brake cleaner and wipe or blow dry.

 

Nice thread. I'm getting ready to replace the oil cooler lines on my 85 GSL SE with the Mazdatrix SS lines. Can't see exactly where the problem is on mine since the oil sludge is much thicker than in your pictures. Thanks for the information.

 

I just had the same problem on my car's cooler too. 85' gsl-se. My fittings had frozen, my lines leaked, and I had my cooler crack twice. Take out your oil cooler (I've done it soo many times it takes me 10 min), get new crush washers, check and see if your lines need to be replaced (if they do, get it done at a hydralic shop, its cheaper, and better quality then the ones you get from Mazdatrix, but not quite as good looking, mine costed me $50 for both hoses), and maybe even new adapters for your cooler (they are $8 each from Mazda, if yours are corroded, cross threaded, etc, I strongly suggest new ones, they help a tonne when your re-installing comepared to old rotted ones that strip easily) when your cooler's off, get a compressed air hose, some water with dye, or leak check, seal off the fitting that does not leak with a board or something, force air into the one that does leak, and spray around the bung, if there are any bubbles, then you have a crack. The first time I but my lines back on, I used my old crush washers, they didn't seal right, my one fitting cross threaded, and it got rounded off cuase it froze trying to take it off. To say the least it leaked, so I tightened it more, and then it leaked even more. I cracked my oil cooler, I welded it up, got new crush washers, and I still had a leak, and this time, I checked over the whole cooler, I tryed the compressed air, and found the tinyest hair line crack, I couldn't even see it with out the bubbles. I got it welded again, new adapters, washers, made sure just to snug it up. Then run the car. Check for leaks, tighten bit by bit, and now, my car has no leaks anywhere. Just be careful, and don't learn the hard way like I did. Cracks are very hard to find. I didn't know I cracked my oil cooler the first time till I had it off. Then it was obvious.

 

anyone ever try Dura Fix Aluminum Weld? Or replace the unit with a tranny cooler. My Bottom inlet has a hairline crack and the leak is drivin me crazy. plus the inlet washer has a piece missing and that part doesn't want to budge. i'm afraid to try and remove the top line as it's clean and dry. so i'm trying to figure out an on car fix. jb weld and such didn;t work.

 

Tig welding is the only fix for a cracked bung.

 

To answer that question is easy!

I take a welding course at the community college and my teacher was very kind to TIG it up for meh when I told him my plight. He's a great guy...

 

REAL DAMN CAREFUL that's how!!! Do NOT grip the inlet tube... as I did trying to remove it because that copper washer had a crack in it. ended up making matters worse with a hair line fracture that was mainly from the piece of washer gone. I could've JB welded that but I had to listen to a friend,,, and believe me THAT sucker does NOT want to leave the cooler!!!

Two Big wrenches with one firmly planted against the frame so there's no way in hell for it to move while you beat the **** out of the hose section trying to unloosen it.

I learned...

 

Tranny cooler will blow up... can't take the pressure. Good info on this at http://www.ohiorotaries.com