Help: Engine Teardown
#1
Nekurd
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Help: Engine Teardown
Basically I'm working on the 18 bolts on the rear housing. I managed to get the first 16 bolts loose, but bolt #17 and #18 (seen in the manual) will not budge... at all. Is there a trick to this without a pulse gun/etc. Is this common too?
#4
Nekurd
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Overheated... not that I know of.
Yeah I tried my breaker bar, used my own weight/tried jumping on it/tried smashing it with my wooden mallet but still nothing. I'm starting to become tempted to throw the block at a wall...
Yeah I tried my breaker bar, used my own weight/tried jumping on it/tried smashing it with my wooden mallet but still nothing. I'm starting to become tempted to throw the block at a wall...
#7
Old Fart Young at Heart
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Are these the 2 bolts on the outside bottom that have had exposure to the elements? If, so, lots of P B Blaster and let the soak. Torque is minmal on engine bolts. Corrosion, or a permanent type tread locker is holding them. Do not break them. On of them is different than the others.
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#8
if you loosened all the bolts except those two, tighten the others and then try loosening the tough ones - by tightening the others again you will take the pressure off the seized ones, might help a bit.
#9
Nekurd
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I got it. I was going to finish it tomorrow but thought, why wait. I went back and it was still hard but I kept yelling and screaming and they finally let loose. *Tip- if there is a bolt that is hard to loosen, yell... it adds the umph that youll need to get it off*
Next portion of the teardown...
I got the rear housing off, and the rear rotor off. The manual says now I need 2 screws for the 2 bungs(?) to unclip it from the other housing. None of the screws I have available fits to actually have grip. Anyone know of what size or what bolt I can use to get them off? Thanks for the help too.
Next portion of the teardown...
I got the rear housing off, and the rear rotor off. The manual says now I need 2 screws for the 2 bungs(?) to unclip it from the other housing. None of the screws I have available fits to actually have grip. Anyone know of what size or what bolt I can use to get them off? Thanks for the help too.
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Ive had good results using a blowtorch to heat bolts up in some extreme situations. Get a propane torch or a cutting torch if your careful and heat them up and make them expand, then bust out the breaker bar and try using a cheater bar over that. Just dont hit any wires or flammables. Or eyebrows. Good luck!
#15
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the bolts are just very tight off the factory, i was tearing down my S4 and I had to use a 2 foot wrench to pry my rachet to get them loose. And when i was taking off the flywheel nut a torch came in handy.
#17
Old Fart Young at Heart
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Originally Posted by chedda_j
yeah that will actually help alot, if not, break out the heat. Just on the head of the bolt and make sure not to over heat any alum parts.
#18
Nekurd
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Ive only heard of torching the huge bolt for the main pulley if it was too hard to get off with a breaker and a pipe, but still never did it.
I'll try the push up and pull trick, since it does look still lubricated.
I'll Ask more questions once I get there. And again, thanks for the help guys. The manual doesn't really get in dept as I wish it would. Its more like, here, do it, next...
I'll try the push up and pull trick, since it does look still lubricated.
I'll Ask more questions once I get there. And again, thanks for the help guys. The manual doesn't really get in dept as I wish it would. Its more like, here, do it, next...
#20
Nekurd
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Still cant get them off.. I don't have the bolts from the 2nd gen motor mounds but if you know the size of the bolt, i can probably get 2 from a hardware store.
#21
Old Fart Young at Heart
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Are you refereing to the dowel pins this time? If so, I think the lug bolts have the correct thread pitch. When I have a stuck dowel pin, I take a 14 mm box wrench, slip the bolt through it, the tap on the wrench to draw the pin out. If the lug bolt is the wrong thread pitch, use one of the lower control arm bolts from the rear.
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