Basically I'm working on the 18 bolts on the rear housing. I managed to get the first 16 bolts loose, but bolt #17 and #18 (seen in the manual) will not budge... at all. Is there a trick to this without a pulse gun/etc. Is this common too?

 

It should come right out. Was the engine overheated?

 

They shouldn't be too difficult to remove using a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar.

 

Overheated... not that I know of.

Yeah I tried my breaker bar, used my own weight/tried jumping on it/tried smashing it with my wooden mallet but still nothing. I'm starting to become tempted to throw the block at a wall...

 

bracer that sucker up and find a long pipe.

 

It's time to put some *** behind it!

 

Are these the 2 bolts on the outside bottom that have had exposure to the elements? If, so, lots of P B Blaster and let the soak. Torque is minmal on engine bolts. Corrosion, or a permanent type tread locker is holding them. Do not break them. On of them is different than the others.

 

if you loosened all the bolts except those two, tighten the others and then try loosening the tough ones - by tightening the others again you will take the pressure off the seized ones, might help a bit.

 

I got it. I was going to finish it tomorrow but thought, why wait. I went back and it was still hard but I kept yelling and screaming and they finally let loose. *Tip- if there is a bolt that is hard to loosen, yell... it adds the umph that youll need to get it off*

Next portion of the teardown...
I got the rear housing off, and the rear rotor off. The manual says now I need 2 screws for the 2 bungs(?) to unclip it from the other housing. None of the screws I have available fits to actually have grip. Anyone know of what size or what bolt I can use to get them off? Thanks for the help too.

 

yeah that will actually help alot, if not, break out the heat. Just on the head of the bolt and make sure not to over heat any alum parts.

 

Ive had good results using a blowtorch to heat bolts up in some extreme situations. Get a propane torch or a cutting torch if your careful and heat them up and make them expand, then bust out the breaker bar and try using a cheater bar over that. Just dont hit any wires or flammables. Or eyebrows. Good luck!

 

I've never really liked the idea of using a torch to work on a car, unless you are welding or actually cutting something off.

 

If I had my way I would use my torch for everything.

 

Druken, do you have any of the motor mount bolts that that go through the oil pan on a second gen engine? If so, those bolts are the correct size and thread to screw into the dowels that you are trying to remove.

 

the bolts are just very tight off the factory, i was tearing down my S4 and I had to use a 2 foot wrench to pry my rachet to get them loose. And when i was taking off the flywheel nut a torch came in handy.

 

to take the dowel pins out use a lug nut off the rx7 it screws right in
or if the dowel pins are well lubed still u can just put a tension bolt on apply pressure and pull up but if its stuck i sugest usin a rx7 lug nut

 

Really? How will heating the head of bolt that is over a foot long loosen the threads that are only cut 3/4" deep. By the time the heat reaches the threads, the bolt will twist like a licorice stick.

 

Ive only heard of torching the huge bolt for the main pulley if it was too hard to get off with a breaker and a pipe, but still never did it.

I'll try the push up and pull trick, since it does look still lubricated.

I'll Ask more questions once I get there. And again, thanks for the help guys. The manual doesn't really get in dept as I wish it would. Its more like, here, do it, next...

 

i didnt use a manual made no sense

tourching the e shaft bolt is for melting the locktight that mazda puts on

 

Still cant get them off.. I don't have the bolts from the 2nd gen motor mounds but if you know the size of the bolt, i can probably get 2 from a hardware store.

 

Are you refereing to the dowel pins this time? If so, I think the lug bolts have the correct thread pitch. When I have a stuck dowel pin, I take a 14 mm box wrench, slip the bolt through it, the tap on the wrench to draw the pin out. If the lug bolt is the wrong thread pitch, use one of the lower control arm bolts from the rear.

 

Thanks for the help! Block is completely broken down. It feels great to have finished it, since it is my first time. WOOOOOOOOOOOO!

 

those 2 outer bolts should have been loosened first.