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If your car has been sitting for a while, the screen in the tank could be clogged. My red car actually has a similar problem, the fuel pressure keeps dropping off, I hear the pump running I get fuel at the carb, it will run for a couple minutes, and die, take the fuel line off the carb, and nothing, leave the key on and it takes a minute to get fuel coming out again. I'm swapping to a fuel injected turbo engine, so I never bothered to figure it out
So like I said, tonight I'll probably drop the tank and make sure it's clean, and I'll replace the filter. I believe this is the pump. This is the only shot I could get of it without lifting the car and crawling further underneath in the work parking
lot.
New filter is in. Definitely the culprit. The other one that was in there was so dirty, the plastic yellow housing looked black. It was bad. Took her for another spins, I think she's finally coming around! I bought new seals from Amazon. The md auto & marine rubber weather seal, about $7 for a 17' roll, so I bought 3, did the drivers door, passenger door, and the hatch. I used about a 2' piece of the 3rd roll. It's super quiet now. Before there was a huge draft and a lot of wind noise, now it's just engine noise and exhaust that you hear.
Nice to see you got it going with minimal $$. These cars are like that, sometimes its just
something small and simple that needs to be fixed.
The installation on that pump leaves a lot to be desired. I assume a direct hot lead from the
battery was run down to the pump relay and the normal pump wire now triggers the relay. I
put the relay in the interior under the bin area so its not in the weather and the hot line fuse
is up near the battery with the rest of the fuses. Your relay being exposed to the elements will
have a short life I bet.
Thanks TG, when I drop the fuel tank, (probably Monday since I'm off) I'll swap the fuse location, it's a pain in the *** where it is. I'll also look into moving the relay inside. I don't want to mess around with that thing in a year or so if it goes bad.
Thanks TG, when I drop the fuel tank, (probably Monday since I'm off) I'll swap the fuse location, it's a pain in the *** where it is. I'll also look into moving the relay inside. I don't want to mess around with that thing in a year or so if it goes bad.
If that hot lead was run under the car this would be the time to do it thru the
firewall, under the carpet and door sill and then into the bin. Theres other wiring
that follows this route too if I'm not mistaken.
If that has a hot lead running under the car, you don't need that rubbing against something and shorting out and possibly starting a fire. I would definitely fix that asap.
So I routed the lead in through the firewall and the cab, installed the relay and all wires into under the bin. Presto! Good to go! Now looking at the engine, not sure if this would just affect my can heat, which I don't have, or if it could, will, or is causing damage to my engine. It feeds to the radiator and fan, so I'd assume it deals with cooling the engine. There is only 1 wire attached here, pic 1 for reference. And not sure what this little guy does, same side of the engine, just at the bottom, second pic. Help and advice is always welcome!
Only 1 wire connected.
The silver rod next to the intake pipe. Isn't connected to anything up top, but connected at the bottom to what seams to be a spring check valve of sorts?
So I routed the lead in through the firewall and the cab, installed the relay and all wires into under the bin. Presto! Good to go! Now looking at the engine, not sure if this would just affect my can heat, which I don't have, or if it could, will, or is causing damage to my engine. It feeds to the radiator and fan, so I'd assume it deals with cooling the engine. There is only 1 wire attached here, pic 1 for reference. And not sure what this little guy does, same side of the engine, just at the bottom, second pic. Help and advice is always welcome!
Only 1 wire connected.
The silver rod next to the intake pipe. Isn't connected to anything up top, but connected at the bottom to what seams to be a spring check valve of sorts?
That's the oil metering pump rod, I sure hope you are premixing oil with your gas, the oil metering pump squirts oil into the rotor housing by squirting it into the carburetor. This lubricates all of the rotor seals.if that is not hooked up and you are not premixing, kiss your engine goodbye.
The first issue with the single wire is the coolant temp sensor and is used to control the
choke for the most part, which may not be hooked up seeing as you have a DCOE.
The fact that it only has the one wire makes it nonfunctional but it won't hurt
anything except you choke pull off once the car heats up. Not a big issue.
The second is the rod to activate the OMP to squirt oil into the carb. It would have this rod
connected to the carb linkage and 2 hoses that go from the pump up to the carb and enter it
either at the bowls are the intake venturis. Your DCOE was installed by an idiot so you need to
premix at all times unless you address this. It can be fixed, I'm sure others with DCOEs on here
have connected the OMP up and have it working.
I know that there is still the choke pull in the cab, and it works. However, once I start the car and it's idling, the choke kind of moves on its own and sets itself to the right choke point.
Could I open the pump and affix it in that position? Would that cause problems?
I'm not quite sure, but i think wide open on the omp is with the lever all the way down, you can try to get it locked in that position somehow, I read somewhere how to do it, you can try searching on the forum
01-13-16, 04:23 PM
