ok heres what happened: i just got finished installing my cd player in my 85 gsl and i tried to start the car up but it wouldnt start. i think its flooded or something. started up fine 4 hours earlier. the battery has plenty of juice still, good old optima. i tried to push start the car but it just wouldnt crank over.

how do i fix this?

gamble

 

whats up

Rotary engine will not unflood itself; you need to remove the bottom spark plugs and crank it over several times. Then new plugs are in order because fouled ones will never quite fire right even if you clean them.
You might also want to try the ATF trick to build some compression; but that tends to foul the plugs too.
Its much easier than unflooding an FC though
Keep us updated
Joe

 

i dont think i want to spray gas all over the engine bay though. according to http://mrmazda.members.atlantic.net/...t.html#NOSTART if i let it sit it might start for me. so i figure i'll try that first for awhile. then maybe some more push starting, my calves look weak anyways hehe. im open for any other sugestions
thanks
gamble

 

A couple of rags in the spark plug journals should take care of the gas.
It doesn't really spray out that much anyways.
BTW nice car looks just like mine

 

looked just like yours. past tense. slight fender bender awhile back and now its got some primer. im gonna paint it this summer though so its ok.
i guess i'll wait til morning so i can actually see what im doing. who knows maybe it'll start right up. thanks for the help

 

Lots of ways to unflood it.

Heres a thing that I do.
If you can get under the drivers side rear bin, thats were the fuel pump connector is (runs through the body) unplug it. Crank the engine. THen plug it back in and start it up....

I took this method one step further and switched the hot wire and ran the switch to the dash, so anytime it floods, I flip the switch and 2 sec later it fires right up! Plus I use the switch as a security feature as well. Turn it off when I get out.

 

Or you could just pull the fuel pump fuse .

 

Once more....I repeat:

MMO! Marvel Mystery Oil into the spark plug holes. It will not foul the plugs like ATF, it's made to be burned, and it will provide the compression needed to start the engine...

Denny, from the 'ol corncrib...

 

Out of curiousity, living in an emissions town, what does MMO do to the HC count at idle or 2500 RPM where they do the running test? Will it skyrocket or does the MMO breakdown into something safe without carbon in the byproducts?

 

ok i got it started yesterday. i tried all of the above. nothing seamed to work til i push started it though. after i finally did get it started, its been runnin terrible. way less power. almost like a seal has gone to wankel heaven. im hoping its just the ignition system though cause the cap and rotor are lookin pretty nasty all of a sudden. i'll try that and let ya'll know how it turns out. on a side note, what kind of plugs are you guys running? i went to the parts store and all they had were those rediculously expensive NGK's. 20 bucks for plugs after tax. split fires might be cool, but i think ngk's might be overkill. i also heard somethin about modifying plugs to make em side fire or somethin crazy, anyone got a link to that?
thanks for the help
gamble
oh yeah im puttin in a fuel pump cut off switch this weekend when i finish up with the stereo

 

$20 for a pack of 4 NGK's sounds about right... Or you can go Nippon Denso's.. They might last longer, and they're 4 prong...

The thing I like about the Nippon Denso's and the NGK's is that Unlike any other plug (Champion, Autolite, etc.) The hex grip sits above the ridge, so you can get a normal socket on them... For any other plug, you've gotta have a thinwalled socket. That socket cracks easily.

I haven't tried Bosch yet, it's been un-reccomended for the rotaries.

I'm unaware of any Splitfires or AC Delco's for the rotary.

Aside from Motorcraft, I think that's the only spark plug manufacturers that I know of. Motorcraft is Ford, so I'm gonna stay as far away from those as I can.