Trying to assemble my engine, went to put exhaust manifold on and noticed the lower aft stud was too short, upon looking closer it was broken off!!!!! Any ideas on how to get it out??????????????

 

Is the engine out of the car?

Are there enough threads sticking out to get a nut/nuts on it at all?

 

It is out of the car, I messed the threads up trying to use vise grips....

 

if you can get one nut on it, weld it to the stud then remove, if it breaks off to the point you can't get a nut on it, oxy/ace torch time. don't have these tools? then you shouldn't be ****** with it..

 

I just got it back from the engine shop in this condition, I don't own a welder

 

Couldn't get it out with vice grips? Spray it with some PB Blaster and try again later. I'm guessing it's pretty stuck if magical vice grips couldn't break it loose. Welding a nut on sounds like the next best bet but if you don't own a welder that may be tough.

 

I agree with penetrating oil and then retry the vise grips. If that doesnt work, gring the end flat, then buy an ease out, basically a special left hand twist drill bit that wil "grab" the stud and turn it out.

 

http://www.jdmlegends.com/blog/?cate...rized&paged=13
Here are some ideas.

Penetrating oil and vise grips are your best bet without a welder.

 

I'd recommend against a welded nut for this one... seeing as the exhaust studs are in the aluminum rotor housings.

PB blaster & soak, then freeze just the stud with an upside down can of dusting spray or a can of freeze-off.

 

Get a can of Kroil. "The oil that kreeps." I was a disciple of PB Blaster for many years, but I'm telling you this Kroil stuff makes PB Blaster look like water. I have yet to come up against anything that this Kroil won't break loose. It is seriously like magic in a can. It is unbelievable. It's a little hard to find, but man it's awesome stuff.

 

**** the penetrating oil. heat the housing with a map gas torch around the stud and use a stud remover to extract the stud. here is the tool i use to remove them: http://www.ebay.com/itm/4PC-METRIC-S...ht_2739wt_1163

 

The penatrating oil/PB blaster/Kroll is worth a try first, but overall, I agree with Dave. I've had good luck with stud pullers and since aluminum expands quicker/more than steel, the heat will help in its removal. Once the stud is broken off flush or below, its time to start drilling it out. This is best avoided if possibile. A little copper never sieze on a repacemnt stud may help pervent future stuck studs.

 

I could try a stud puller but I don't think it will fit being that the stud in question is the lower aft. I think the one main bolt will get in the way....

 

I have a couple of different tools for such an issue .... all you ever have to do is holler

page 73 stud extractor

http://kd-tools.com/KD_2010_Catalog_Lo.pdf

also have a tap and die set, could repair the thread then use the two nut method

 

I had an issues with one of the bolts that attaches to the bottom of the strut tower to the peice that the tie rod end and ball joint go into. After the bolt head broke off I tried vise grips with pb blaster and an assortment of other tools, the eventual solution was using a rounded bolt extractor that fit the stud.

 

Holler@13X......

 

I am not one for posting my phone # but if you email me at 13x@sincityrotary.com it goes to my cell phone

 

i didn't think of mapp. it's alot cheaper to purchase although oxy/ace has many more uses...



why? the heat will work for you as far as getting the bolt out, and i don't see electrolysis happening within the hour of removal... it was my understanding that electrolysis takes weeks and even months to occur.

 

Well, I was first thinking of electric rather than gas welding... and the dissimilar metal junction would create a resistive drop that could well cause you to weld the stud in the hole.

But essentially, my first rule is "where rotor housings are concerned, 'paranoid' is just good practice."

& it shouldn't require that level of intervention to get a stud out. Nearly 40 years I've been wrenching, & I've never found it necessary.

 

i guess it depends on the value you place on a particular rotor housing, that being said, i have a header with only 3 bolts that isn't leaking(yet).... the nut i welded on broke the stud off flush in the housing, and it's quite old.. 140k miles, and the motor is installed, soo yeh not gonna deal with it... ... it's the beater car anyways.