You know, I just had the same problem. Replaced all calipers, brake lines, etc. Back would bleed no problem, but couldn't get anything out of the front. I used a wrench to tap on the MC and the proportioning valve. When I tapped on the MC, the fluid level went down a hair and pretty sure I saw a bubble. After that, everything was good. My system was basically empty, so probably had an air bubble in the MC. Worth a shot.

If that doesn't work, I would try to vac bleed the fronts.

 

how are your brake hoses, might as well replace them now if they are cracked

 

With all the money you have already spent on the brakes, it's prolly best to replace everything within reason. You've already replaced the MC and repaired the Rear Seals, so go ahead and replace the brake lines. Who knows how old they are.

 

WEll thank you all for your great advice and i will get a remanufactured master cylander, vaccume bleed the system and then get new brake lines. and i will keep you updated

 

Did you try what I said to do? It worked for me.

For brake lines, you can get SS ones for about the same price as rubber. Mazdatrix is close to you and they have a good price on a set (get the DOT approved ones).

 

Signal Hill's about a hundred twenty miles from San Diego... but I do suppose that's close, relatively speaking.

 

Closest that I know of that has the lines is what I mean. RB has them too. Either way you are probably looking at 1 day shipping even via ground. Re-speed and others have the lines too, but they are considerably further away.

 

Gotcha.

I'm one of the lucky ones... RB's about three blocks from my office.

Lucky for me, not so much for my wallet.

 

hey addict i tried bwhat u said but didnt work

and yea ill probably get em from mazdatrix

 

it's funny, I'm having the same problem, but the rear wheel cylinders are fine, as well as the front calipers.
-Everything bleeds out just fine (when bleeding the lines)
-The rear shoes and front pads are relatively new
-The rear shoes are adjusted
-The air has been bled out of the master cylinder
-There are no leaks anywhere
-The brake booster has only about 5k miles on it (about 8 years from sitting)
--->the booster also works fine with the car running.
-The pedal does NOT "fall" to the floor at all when holding it....not even slightly
-The lines have been bled thoroughly

This is my current assumption:
It's a 79 with drum brakes and a front brake setup from an 84. However, the rear wheels are 15x9's and the fronts are 15x8. Also, the brake booster is a 79 model, and it has the earlier style (80 - 83 I believe) axle drum brakes that had a smaller diameter than the 84 and 85 rear axle. I'm wondering if the large wheels are too much for the brake system.

Opinions?

 

Exactly how are you bleeding the brakes?
Even one misstep or miscommunication with the helper can result in pulling air back into the system.
See this site for a good procedure writeup.
http://www.zeckhausen.com/bleeding_brakes.htm

 

After many years of practice, my wife is expertly trained in pedal operations for the brake bleeding procedure. This did not come to be without considerable cost.

 

YAY!!!
After about 2 and a half months!!!
I bought a brand new beck and arley brake master cylander (not refurbished)
from ebay for 50 bucks and bleed it perfectly and busted it in. now my brakes work like a charm!!!!!!!!

now since i lost my keys i have to wait till nex friday before i can bjuy a new ley cylander but i want to drive it now i can turn it on but the steering wheel is locked lol

anyways does any mod think this thread is archive worthy?
very good information in this. for probabbly all brake loss possibilities!!!